bluedogz
Minister of Fire
Mine is in the hallway outside the stove room, a good 20' from the stove itself.Does it matter if the fan is blowing on the stove from a distance?
Mine is in the hallway outside the stove room, a good 20' from the stove itself.Does it matter if the fan is blowing on the stove from a distance?
Cathedral ceilings have always been a problem Hilbi, Ive seen alot of duct work ideas tried on new construction and the age old ceiling fans still seem to do as good in that app. They do have multi speed fans for furnaces/air handlers that run super slow but wow are they proud of them $$$ they are also in the new HVAC equipment but you,ll pay for it also. I tried a real small slow blower in my furnace and the air was still to cold coming out or the registers. The trick is to pull the cold air out from a distance and dump it at the heat source, at low cfm's.My floor plan has me thinking about this issue.
No central air handler, but i ducted off the peak of a cathedral
- horizontal run about 8' then down about 40" - for circulation with a duct booster.
Always hard to say how much air will be moved.
Hope it works for you.
If not, investigate a timer for the lowest/quietest speed on your air handler.
Wishlist,your idea will work just fine, that is the set up that i have and it works great.pushing the cold air from the back bedrooms to the stove with a small energy consuming fan froces the warm air to the back bedrooms well.Plus the noise is not even noticable.I tied into the supply ducts pulling from the back two bedrooms with a y since the supplies are on the floor(cold air) and the warm air on top just naturally gravitates back there. Now, if I need it to happen quickly,I place a box fan on the floor pointing towards the stove room(living room) for about 30 min then switch to the in-line duct fan to maitain. I have four girls in this house, they are very critical and all are warm.
You have to be careful blocking off return air vents and supplies as well. Furnaces are designed for a certain load factor (to breath) and by blocking returns and supplies you can damage your system. I am not an HVAC tech, but I have asked our techs at work about blocking returns and they all told me absolutely do not.There is a reason there are not diverters on the return grills. I do not think my system was designed properly because the largest returns are closet to the furnace and the returns at the back of the house hardly draw at all.
The only time I use my A/C fan is when I overfire my stove and get it too hot in the stove room. (I usually try not to do that, but hey, accidents happen) One of those large returns is directly across from my stove, and I'll agree with you about 70* blowing air feels cold.
Actually the difference in density between the cold and heated air is insignificant in this case. However, you'll have less heat loss in the ducts if you're moving cold air through them instead of heated air.
Have to disagree with you there. The difference in the cool and heated air is enough to make a big difference. The proof is when we find the cool rooms warming up significantly. In short, it works, no matter what the theory.
One reason it may be easier to move the cool air and increase the flow overall is because you're moving it over the flat floor. The warm air has to go through doorways which are lower than the ceilings in the rooms and obstruct the flow. A slight difference in density is probably enough to help the process along.Never said it doesn't work, just that the density difference isn't enough to be a major factor in why it works.
Never said it doesn't work, just that the density difference isn't enough to be a major factor in why it works.
As CT_Sub stated, natural convection (warm air rises in the stove room and spill out the top of the doorway, cold air is drawn in low to replace it) is a force that you want to work with, not against. Blowing cold air low, back to the stove room, is assisting the air to move the way it already wants to go.I do have a blower on the stove itself but, I also run, and 8 inch fan, on low, behind the stove pipe, directed toward the hallway, is there any reason I should not do that???
You have to be careful blocking off return air vents and supplies as well. Furnaces are designed for a certain load factor (to breath) and by blocking returns and supplies you can damage your system. I am not an HVAC tech, but I have asked our techs at work about blocking returns and they all told me absolutely do not.There is a reason there are not diverters on the return grills. I do not think my system was designed properly because the largest returns are closet to the furnace and the returns at the back of the house hardly draw at all.
The only time I use my A/C fan is when I overfire my stove and get it too hot in the stove room. (I usually try not to do that, but hey, accidents happen) One of those large returns is directly across from my stove, and I'll agree with you about 70* blowing air feels cold.
Thought I would share a pic of the supply vent near the stove. Its on the right side on the exterior wall . Figured it may help get more of an understanding of what I'm gonna try.
This vent will be isolated from the rest of the supply vents. The fan will draw air from the the supply side of the forced air furnace which the house has 3 supply vents , 1 in the hall around the corner and 2 more in the bedrooms. Hopefully I can get a fair amount of cool air with the 8" fan. I'll be sure and post pics and do a little " not so scientific" experimenting.
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