Are you using or planning storage?
If so is it going to be near boiler or in house?
What will distance be from boiler to storage?
gg
If so is it going to be near boiler or in house?
What will distance be from boiler to storage?
gg
infinitymike said:I can only find a Danfoss at my local supplier it is code# 065B8938 for 1" pipe good from 85*-140* or a Taco 5004Hunderliggur said:Nope. You need something like this http://smokelessheat.com/ProductPage.aspx?PID=36 You can search the net for suppliers. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the plate to prevent air locks when cold.(Inside the valve - not in the cover) I don't know what your booiler piping size is, mine is 1 1/4".
Will either one work? Than dafoss is $108 and the taco is $140
Gasifier said:Stop for a few minutes Mike. Wait until someone responds who is a little more knowledgeable than I am. I don't want to see you make a mistake that will cost you efficiency all this winter and possibly cost you more money, a lot more, if you have to change everything next year and pay someone to do it. Could lead to thousands of dollars more for you. I don't know what your paying your boiler guy, but they usually are not cheap. Right now, a few hours, or having him stop, get what you need, and have him come back may be better. I know, but I am just sayin. It is pretty warm out right now. Looks like it is going to stay that way for a while.
goosegunner said:Are you using or planning storage?
If so is it going to be near boiler or in house?
What will distance be from boiler to storage?
gg
goosegunner said:Here is a picture of my Danfoss. I am not saying it is the only way or the best but you can see it. My circulator is on the supply side because the Danfoss tech said it would aid in air elimination. I have considered moving it to reduce water temp in circulator, but the pumps and equipment supply shop says it will not hurt it.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/67361/
gg
Right on. I didn't know if it was going to be boxed in by construction or not. I had the luxury of digging a 70 foot trench last summer. Yours would be much easier. Sounds easy to work with.infinitymike said:My boiler is in an attached garage/shop.
The piping is completly exposed as it runs along the ceiling of my basement and then pops out thru the foundation wall in the garage.
Hopefully it will handle the load. I guess I could always change it in the summer.
infinitymike said:Gasifier said:Stop for a few minutes Mike. Wait until someone responds who is a little more knowledgeable than I am. I don't want to see you make a mistake that will cost you efficiency all this winter and possibly cost you more money, a lot more, if you have to change everything next year and pay someone to do it. Could lead to thousands of dollars more for you. I don't know what your paying your boiler guy, but they usually are not cheap. Right now, a few hours, or having him stop, get what you need, and have him come back may be better. I know, but I am just sayin. It is pretty warm out right now. Looks like it is going to stay that way for a while.
It's a little to late the pex was run on Saturday. Right now my guy is in the basement setting up the primary loop.
He is getting a little frustrated that I keep coming to him with random thoughts.
He has actually told me I'm not helping him with all of these different ideas.
I do trust him. He has a very hard personality. I will let him think it through for a while.
Again its not like I have my wife and kids on the operating table and the surgeon is confused on which way to hook up the heart valve.
It will all work out.. Its only time and money both of which I am losing day by day. I can always make more money as for the time ...oh well.
infinitymike said:Gasifier said:Stop for a few minutes Mike. Wait until someone responds who is a little more knowledgeable than I am. I don't want to see you make a mistake that will cost you efficiency all this winter and possibly cost you more money, a lot more, if you have to change everything next year and pay someone to do it. Could lead to thousands of dollars more for you. I don't know what your paying your boiler guy, but they usually are not cheap. Right now, a few hours, or having him stop, get what you need, and have him come back may be better. I know, but I am just sayin. It is pretty warm out right now. Looks like it is going to stay that way for a while.
It's a little to late the pex was run on Saturday. Right now my guy is in the basement setting up the primary loop.
He is getting a little frustrated that I keep coming to him with random thoughts.
He has actually told me I'm not helping him with all of these different ideas.
I do trust him. He has a very hard personality. I will let him think it through for a while.
Again its not like I have my wife and kids on the operating table and the surgeon is confused on which way to hook up the heart valve.
It will all work out.. Its only time and money both of which I am losing day by day. I can always make more money as for the time ...oh well.
stee6043 said:infinitymike said:Gasifier said:Stop for a few minutes Mike. Wait until someone responds who is a little more knowledgeable than I am. I don't want to see you make a mistake that will cost you efficiency all this winter and possibly cost you more money, a lot more, if you have to change everything next year and pay someone to do it. Could lead to thousands of dollars more for you. I don't know what your paying your boiler guy, but they usually are not cheap. Right now, a few hours, or having him stop, get what you need, and have him come back may be better. I know, but I am just sayin. It is pretty warm out right now. Looks like it is going to stay that way for a while.
It's a little to late the pex was run on Saturday. Right now my guy is in the basement setting up the primary loop.
He is getting a little frustrated that I keep coming to him with random thoughts.
He has actually told me I'm not helping him with all of these different ideas.
I do trust him. He has a very hard personality. I will let him think it through for a while.
Again its not like I have my wife and kids on the operating table and the surgeon is confused on which way to hook up the heart valve.
It will all work out.. Its only time and money both of which I am losing day by day. I can always make more money as for the time ...oh well.
Yikes. I feel like we are constantly raining on your parade, Mike!
If a guy I was paying to do work on my home ever told me to "butt out" it would be the last thing he told me while he was being paid by me. I'd pay him for what he's done so far and politely request that he not finish the install. But that's just me.
I guess on the bright side we can agree that having undersized piping WITH a Danfoss valve is better than having undersized piping without.
I'm seeing one inch PEX at a pressure drop of about 14 feet H2O head at 8 gpm on a 150 foot circuit. Six gpm would me more realistic, but still workable if the house can pull enough deltaT.jebatty said:Assuming equivalent pipe length of 150', and assuming 8 gpm which is about what 1" pipe will do ...that’s about 8.5 feet of head
jebatty said:InfinityMike -- not much discussion on flow, head loss, etc. You said 70' between the OB and the WG with 4 elbows. Assuming equivalent pipe length of 150', and assuming 8 gpm which is about what 1" pipe will do (= 80,000 btuh at deltaT= 20F), that's about 8.5 feet of head. If there is no other pump head, a Grundfos 15-58 on M would do that, a Taco 007 would not. Be sure you or your contractor does a head loss calculation at your desired flow rate and then selects the correct circulator to handle your WG output. 80,000 btuh should be OK on average output of the WG E100, which means you will need to move about 8 gpm.
infinitymike said:goosegunner said:Here is a picture of my Danfoss. I am not saying it is the only way or the best but you can see it. My circulator is on the supply side because the Danfoss tech said it would aid in air elimination. I have considered moving it to reduce water temp in circulator, but the pumps and equipment supply shop says it will not hurt it.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/67361/
gg
Where did you buy your Danfoss?
ewdudley said:I'm seeing one inch PEX at a pressure drop of about 14 feet H2O head at 8 gpm on a 150 foot circuit. Six gpm would me more realistic, but still workable if the house can pull enough deltaT.
jebatty said:ewdudley said:I'm seeing one inch PEX at a pressure drop of about 14 feet H2O head at 8 gpm on a 150 foot circuit. Six gpm would me more realistic, but still workable if the house can pull enough deltaT.
You're correct. I used 1" steel pipe, PEX is less than an inch. About 14 feet at 8 gpm for 1" and about 9.15 feet for 1.5" at 8 gpm. I would not plan for less than 8 gpm to the primary loop if it was me. A 15-58 on H would move a little more than 8 gpm at 9.15 feet of head; a 007 definitely would not move 8 gpm; an 008 will do a little better than 8 gpm, a 0010 would move about 9 gpm; and an 0011 is overkill and probably not the right choice, IMO. The 15-58 3-speed could be a good choice because of the flexibility of running on M (less wattage) at something less than 8 gpm if that also works well for the WG.
The E100 is rated at 100,000 btuh; planning for 80,000 btuh on a burn cycle to storage and letting the WG burn out would be in line based on my experience.
I don't recall that we know the characteristics of your heating load, so we can only speculate. It depends on your heating load, and on your system deltaT.infinitymike said:Ok guys, what should I be asking of my installer?
How did he figure the pump?
What is the heat loss of the house per hour?
What is the load the house needs?
Or totally different questions?
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