brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Many furnace manufacturers require them...the newer clean burn wood furnaces do fine with a baro burning dry wood, I clean the chimney once per year, get a little dry soot, no "creosote"
Although I am freezing, I am a little bit afraid of my Schrock Coal Stove.
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The Amish stove guy put new seals in the top and bottom doors. Not in the middle door - they looked good. No one professional to install my chimney. The local chimney company came out and said not interested. Another guy hired made me rent a lift, worked all day, and not a single piece of pipe put in (but a lot of money wasted). So my good old repair man and his son installed the pipe inside the chimney, from the ground up.
I don’t want a runaway stove, but I don’t want a poorly installed barometric either. So I don’t want to argue but I am seeking facts AND warmth. I got this stove from someone that owed me money and it is made and sold near me, so the Amish that makes it has been answering loads of questions regularly, sold me the pipe, and his son came down to service it. They don’t have much barometric knowledge and neither do I, but I would like to make it work safely.
I think what you are saying is that you are worried a not airtight stove would pull in too much air with a strong drafting chimney, and that a barometric would regulate that draft? In my one fire up, I could not keep the fire going after I closed the bottom door. I need to learn to get my coal going and keep it going. So far I have not filled the hopper and only added coal via the front door.
More questions:
What does a barometric do?
How does it work?
How would it improve this installation?
When would it be critical?
I don’t want a runaway stove, but I don’t want a poorly installed barometric either. So I don’t want to argue but I am seeking facts AND warmth. I got this stove from someone that owed me money and it is made and sold near me, so the Amish that makes it has been answering loads of questions regularly, sold me the pipe, and his son came down to service it. They don’t have much barometric knowledge and neither do I, but I would like to make it work safely.
I think what you are saying is that you are worried a not airtight stove would pull in too much air with a strong drafting chimney, and that a barometric would regulate that draft? In my one fire up, I could not keep the fire going after I closed the bottom door. I need to learn to get my coal going and keep it going. So far I have not filled the hopper and only added coal via the front door.
More questions:
What does a barometric do?
How does it work?
How would it improve this installation?
When would it be critical?
Post Script: I really appreciate any comments and thoughts, and the fact that you take your time to think about and answer questions. My only home heating experience was a worthless Amaizeablaise!!
I don’t have homeowners insurance. Or heat. But I got the internet and a wealth of good advice thanks to Verizon!!
A barometric damper is a tee with a weighted flap that is adjusted to open and close to allow dilution air in to stabalize the draft. If there is to much draft the flap opens up reducing the pull on the stove.
The danger of not having one is overfiring the stove which can cause warping cracking melting and extremly high temperatures.
It will improve your install by giving you consistent draft and keeping your stove from overheating.
I dont understand how someone could be a "stove guy" and not know about barometric dampers. That makes me wonder if they even know what alloy steel needs to be used for coal.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
1.They regulate the draft.
2.They have a precision weighted (and adjustable) flap that opens up to allow air up the chimney...the air cools the chimney, slowing the flue gas speed down.
3.No unreasonably high draft numbers, which can overfire your stove.
4. During real cold weather and wind...they work great in the wind as they smooth the draft out real well.
Here is a good baro (in 6", you may need 8"?) Don't buy one of those junk Vogelzangs at Menards!
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
FYI, I have a Dwyer Mark II model 25 manometer permanently mounted on the wall next to my furnace to be able to verify my draft every time I load...they can be bought for $20-$25 or so on "fleabay" if you watch for 'em...simple to install and set up too.
Here is vid showing the manometer and the baro working.
Here is vid showing the manometer and the baro working.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
FYI I just looked, there is a brand new Dwyer Mark II model 25 on the fleabay for $24 (shipped) right now...and another for $25.50 (ish) right up in Huron Ohio
Installed a $75 barometric damper. Adjusted it wide open. Now my stove won’t hold a fire, even with the bottom door open. Any ideas? Thank you.
![[Hearth.com] Although I am freezing, I am a little bit afraid of my Schrock Coal Stove.](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/233/233594-37aae9c026aa77b3e8de513475870801.jpg?hash=Tc65zkVJju "[Hearth.com] Although I am freezing, I am a little bit afraid of my Schrock Coal Stove.")
Close it more. What draft is required by the furnace? With it all the way open you will have very little draft.
I adjusted the weight all the way to the left, so the door is perpendicular to the pipe. Before that, when it was “open” more it let smoke into the house.
My suspicion is that me or the stove are too simple for the sophistication of the barometric damper.
![[Hearth.com] Although I am freezing, I am a little bit afraid of my Schrock Coal Stove.](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/233/233596-8b77797018d813b9cacaf33a0c0ab562.jpg?hash=_OaGxYroQE "[Hearth.com] Although I am freezing, I am a little bit afraid of my Schrock Coal Stove.")
If smoke was coming into the house through the baro damper there is something very wrong and very dangerous about your install. There should always be negative pressure inside that pipe pulling in which will not allow smoke out. The damper is also to close to the stove most stoves want the 18" from the outlet. You really need someone with real knowledge of coal stoves and furnaces to look at your install.
No one like that is available. I think as soon as the coals cool off I will take it back out. KISS applies to me, the installer.
Ok but if smoke was coming out the damper something is very wrong with your install. And it is very dangerous.
Ok, well, thanks all. My plan is cool off the stove, remove the baro, and go back to original install.
I appreciate all the input, but referring me to a qualified installer is of no use to me. I am a rugged individualist, do it yourselfer. I live in a township of the same types. When I rely on others, I spend money and get nothing but grief (see earlier post about renting a lift and hiring a guy to install chimney which costed a lot and had ZERO results). I was hoping someone in internet land had this kind of stove, or a similar one, but no luck. I gotta go back to the big wide world of people who do not have computers.
I read and re read the baro instructions. I have read the stove manual mAny times. There is no information or settings for a Baro. The manufacturer sold me the baro but did not understand why I would want or need it. He has many of these stoves in use on his farm - I counted five in house, green house, maple sugar shack, workshop, retail shop, etc. and probably more I don’t know about. Short stacks and tall stacks. No baros. Leads me to think mine will work best without one.
I appreciate all the input, but referring me to a qualified installer is of no use to me. I am a rugged individualist, do it yourselfer. I live in a township of the same types. When I rely on others, I spend money and get nothing but grief (see earlier post about renting a lift and hiring a guy to install chimney which costed a lot and had ZERO results). I was hoping someone in internet land had this kind of stove, or a similar one, but no luck. I gotta go back to the big wide world of people who do not have computers.
I read and re read the baro instructions. I have read the stove manual mAny times. There is no information or settings for a Baro. The manufacturer sold me the baro but did not understand why I would want or need it. He has many of these stoves in use on his farm - I counted five in house, green house, maple sugar shack, workshop, retail shop, etc. and probably more I don’t know about. Short stacks and tall stacks. No baros. Leads me to think mine will work best without one.
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