Alderlea T5 Cleaning the baffle and flue myself.

[Squisher]

Mine stay pretty clear. I know this because when I run er up really hot flames shoot out of the manifold holes just like secondaries.

 

[Hogwildz]

Mine stay pretty clear. I know this because when I run er up really hot flames shoot out of the manifold holes just like secondaries.

That's fairly normal, get the same here. Like jet engine exhaust shooting out the boost holes. There is also a gap between the manifold and the actual body holes, if they are clogged, someone let a crapload of ash build up and neglected it.[/QUOTE]

 

[Squisher]

Yah. I like it when it's running hot. Throwing flames out of every hole while the body of the beast is tinging, ringing and booming!

Yes. I might have a problem. Lol.

 

[Sodbuster]

That's fairly normal, get the same here. Like jet engine exhaust shooting out the boost holes. There is also a gap between the manifold and the actual body holes, if they are clogged, someone let a crapload of ash build up and neglected it.

[/QUOTE]

When I do a thorough cleaning, every 2-3 weeks or so, I take a vacuum and a crevice tool and put the suction right up to the actual boost holes. If I take a mirror and look, there is usually a little bit in there, but not much. I figure it's better to keep it really clean than to let things build up however. Note: If I'm doing a mid season clean out (my stove never gets too cold in the heating season), the vacuum gets set outside for a while before getting let back in it's closet. Shouldn't be a hot coal in there, but you never know.

 

[Shsesc]

Now that I'm looking really closely, I think k I need firebricks because two have horizontal cracks. Is there a good source online?

 

[Squisher]

Standard sized wood stove 'bricks' are referred to as a 1/2 firebrick at the local builder supply shop and ran me a whopping $1.90 a piece Canadian the last time I was there.

 

[Squisher]

I don't replace them until they crumble/fall apart. A crack is no big deal IMO. Plenty of 'cracks' between each brick placement.

 

[Shsesc]

The last guy I had clean ours hit the cap with his brush from below, hard, but I still had to go up there and clean it off better because it was clearly caked with creosote.

Is the firebrick a standard thing I can just buy anywhere, sizes sound the same as Rutland fire brick (intermediate duty which is rated to 2200*f) except for a partial piece near the ash cleanout that I almost never use. Is there an easy way to cut it?

 

[Squisher]

Yes they are standard sizes. 9"x4.5"X1.25" is a fire brick half and 2.5" is a full firebrick. You want the half brick.

It's an acquired skill to cut it. I use a chisel. They are cheap enough that you can take a couple stabs at cutting/breaking one until you get an acceptable outcome.

 

[Shsesc]

I don't replace them until they crumble/fall apart. A crack is no big deal IMO. Plenty of 'cracks' between each brick placement.

Is it normal to have a gap or more than an inch above the fire bricks? Did the previous owners replace with shorter bricks?

 

[Squisher]

A sweep should always get the cap. It would have to visually check out clean with binos and be death defying to get to before ever considering not inspecting the top and cleaning the cap in person, from the roof.

 

[Shsesc]

Also I should add that I burned today up around 700-750 max and the glass cleaned up with no wiping, just burned off.

 

[Squisher]

Is it normal to have a gap or more than an inch above the fire bricks? Did the previous owners replace with shorter bricks?

There's no way the gap at the top of my bricks is more than an inch. You could always measure the brick if you were unsure.

 

[Shsesc]

There's no way the gap at the top of my bricks is more than an inch. You could always measure the brick if you were unsure.

I'll take a picture in the morning when the stove is cool. I'll also measure. Perhaps they put them in sides first and cut the bottom ones to fit? They'd be 1 1/4" short which is about the gap I have.

 

[Squisher]

There is a gap on mine. But I'd guesstimate 1/2-3/4". It isn't meant to be tight.

This is in my super insert and summit. The alderlea could have a larger gap for all I know.

 

[Sodbuster]

If your firebricks are not crumbling and falling apart, you can always wait until late winter. Places like TSC place them on a steep discount. I have a pile sitting in the basement that cost me like $5.

 

[Hogwildz]

There is a gap at the top of the firebricks on all PE products. You can leave the cracked bricks in place, or even swap them some floor bricks. PE uses lightweight pumice bricks, more expensive than the standard ones. I don't see why standards would not work, but if you want to match the OEM then pumice is the ones. Cheaper to find online than from dealer.

 

[edyit]

It's an acquired skill to cut it. I use a chisel.

I've found that a tile saw, or a chop saw with an abrasive blade makes a better looking cut on fire bricks when i've had to cut them. though i'm doing them in my own garage at my own leisure not in someone else's house on the clock.

 

[Woody5506]

Is it normal to have a gap or more than an inch above the fire bricks? Did the previous owners replace with shorter bricks?

My T5 has an inch or less gap above the bricks. Pretty sure the manual states to not load above the bricks which seems nearly impossible unless you're cleaning ash out every few days.

 

[Shsesc]

I couldn't take a small enough photo, but they're crumbling on the face that faces the fire. The outside of the bricks is totally smooth and the inside is bumpy and crumbles off when you touch it. I replaced them with heavier bricks. The ones that were in there were a lit lighter. Is that a problem? For the cut bricks I went to a shop that does fire places and had them cut on the wet saw since they are not easy to cut along the length the way I needed.

Edited to add the following :

I just refreshed and saw that the last three posts so I understand the difference between the pumice and the heavier standard bricks.