JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
good point. I'd think it would be for the wood furnace, seeing that's what he's come here for answers on, but one never knows.
Last edited:
Air Flow- Heat Commander
- Thread starter Carl_Bunyon
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
good point. I'd think it would be for the wood furnace, seeing that's what he's come here for answers on, but one never knows.
On the HC, it monitors the thermostat demand for heat, the baffle temp, the firebox temp, and the plenum temp.
It uses the first 3 to determine the burn rate, but will always damp down for an efficient secondary burn, changing between an efficiency mode and a higher output mode based on the thermostat demand. It only runs wide open for a few minutes after pushing the reload button or at the very end of a burn when it detects that the temps have dropped in the firebox.
It uses the plenum temp to run the blower fan (constantly if the thermostat demands heat and intermittently if the demand is satisfied), as well as to fully close the shutters if the furnace over temps.
I can't imagine any scenario where the HC could burn through a full (or even half) load of wood in 3 hours - it should detect the firebox temps and shutter-down for an efficient burn. It can never run wide open with an engaged, active fire unless something is wrong.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Hello, sorry for delayed response... Update... My guy reworked the ductwork some to increase supply. It did help. But after running for 3 months I think my biggest issues are: 1. Drafty house 2. The DROLET furnace which replaced the previous one, is located on the end of the basement so not centrally located. 3. This old two story was not built with return air ducts from the top story. We added a few during the renovations but not ideal. Per the manufacturer, we added a Manual damper to the 6" flue pipe.
In my case, the DROLET works well down to 20° . But the last 2 days in Missouri, when it gets down to 0° at night, the furnace needs to run at highest output to keep at 64°. My thermometer on my heat duct shows highest output temp at 102°, but it is usually 85-90° . I can't let it die down otherwise my house cools off quickly. 4. Without spending huge $$, my issue is I can't run wood furnace and keep my electric heat pump set and run at the same time. So overnight, it is either add wood every 3 hours or wake up to 58°. I can't blame this on the DROLET. It is the other factors.
I am just west of St Louis and have a similar situation with Ashley furnace. It is in the basement and maintains the second floor temp plus or minus 2 degrees but when in the single digits I have to run the gas furnace about 2x a day to bump the temp up when the wood furnace is cooled down and ready for reload usually around 9 pm and 4 am.
The way my ductwork is setup because wood furnace is on the end of the house, I can't run the heat pump while the wood furnace is running. My HVAC guy warned it could cause balance issues, not to mention blowing air back into the wood furnace.
My wood furnace has a backflow damper in the duct work, I also have an 8" elbow off the top of the furnace blowing into the basement with a damper in that so I open it while the gas furnace is running. I shut the gas back down once the wood furnace gets to temp. Also the wood furnace has 2 blowers 1 turns on at 130F the second at 160F both have 20 degree differential.
Similar threads
