SmokeyTheBear said:As Jay said your EVL is fine.
Could you provide a picture of your control board from both sides?
.....................................The board is ok, no burn spots no damage... Not sure what your looking for, but I did look over the board and verify all's good.
Could you explain exactly how you clean your stove?
.....................................I brush the heatexchanger, scrape the grate, vac the ash trap, fire box, remove the firebrick &brush; and vac behind that. vac out the T cleanout, vac out the feed chute. Run the vac across the door gasket to get the ash off of there, and down in the window seal.
When were the door and ash pan gaskets replaced?
.....................................The stove is a month old, the gaskets were never replaced. The door gasket has a good seal all the way around, and the ash pan doesnt have a gasket because it has a slide gate that seperates it from the firebox. Thats sealed good as well.
Do you have a manual? If so can you provide an on line copy?
..................................... http://www.fiamma.us/images/Lennox/Profile-stoves(II&OP
Can you provide pictures from above, below and all four sides of your grate when cleaned, I'm looking for possible warping (air flow bypass), and a top view of the area the grate sits into?
.....................................I'll take some.
I have a link for you to look at: http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
Again With Pics...
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.pdf I called the place I bought it today. She said it should burn these pellets fine. Then she proceeded to tell me that the quality of pellets has dropped. She said she will have a service tech call me tomorrow when he comes in. She said something about an "air wash system" that it should be sealed, it isnt from the factory... But with the recent QA problems with pellets, sealing this system will help the stove burn lik eit should. I have no idea what she is talking about, but she is willing to eat the cost of a tech visit if needed.
Fish On said:
I stopped at the tractor supply and thats all they had... Does home depot have softwood ?
I'm looking for a picture of the control panel so I can locate the information specific to that panel especially the installation adjustments.
That link you are providing to the manual is being mangled by the forum software, as a result it leads to a 404 not found error page.
So there is a rev out on the air wash system, talk about a possible air issue. BTW, your combustion motor is only running at 98.26% if the voltage on high is 113.
Fish On if what I'm finding is any indication his stove should be able to burn standard grade pellets.
That link you are providing to the manual is being mangled by the forum software, as a result it leads to a 404 not found error page.
So there is a rev out on the air wash system, talk about a possible air issue. BTW, your combustion motor is only running at 98.26% if the voltage on high is 113.
Fish On if what I'm finding is any indication his stove should be able to burn standard grade pellets.
I'll take a pic of the board too... Unless the link might have the info you need.
What does that mean that its only at 98%... Also, what does the "rev out on the air wash system" mean? What does the air wash system do. If you go to comcast.net and use that search window, type in "profile 30 manual" it is a PDF link about the 7th link down... Its fiamma.us/ yada yada yada...
What does that mean that its only at 98%... Also, what does the "rev out on the air wash system" mean? What does the air wash system do. If you go to comcast.net and use that search window, type in "profile 30 manual" it is a PDF link about the 7th link down... Its fiamma.us/ yada yada yada...
Ok, I've read the manual.
From page 25
IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure to fully close the ash slide plate when
complete. Failure to close the ash release slide plate completely may
cause the fuel to burn poorly (due to reduced air flow through the grate),
which may then cause pellets to “pile up” in the grate. The ash slides
must be fully closed for the firebox door to close.
and from page 19
Note: If the fuel feed trim or combustion air
trim needs to be adjusted, contact an authorized
Lennox Hearth Products Technician to calibrate
internal software. It is recommended that the
damper be used to fine-tune your stove to your
particular fuel and installation configuration (see
Damper Adjustment on Page 9 and Damper
Adjustment Guideline on Page 21).
The air wash system causes a small amount of air inside the firebox to be pulled along the glass window to help cut down on crud building up on the glass. Nice idea, don't always work too well and if the folks where you bought the stove from are correct it appears that it may also lead to burn issues.
I'm trying to stay away from the bad 3 letter word and such things as negative pressure in the house (caused by operating suckers (fans) that vent outside or other causes of insufficient intake air).
Do you know the altitude of your location?
From page 25
IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure to fully close the ash slide plate when
complete. Failure to close the ash release slide plate completely may
cause the fuel to burn poorly (due to reduced air flow through the grate),
which may then cause pellets to “pile up” in the grate. The ash slides
must be fully closed for the firebox door to close.
and from page 19
Note: If the fuel feed trim or combustion air
trim needs to be adjusted, contact an authorized
Lennox Hearth Products Technician to calibrate
internal software. It is recommended that the
damper be used to fine-tune your stove to your
particular fuel and installation configuration (see
Damper Adjustment on Page 9 and Damper
Adjustment Guideline on Page 21).
The air wash system causes a small amount of air inside the firebox to be pulled along the glass window to help cut down on crud building up on the glass. Nice idea, don't always work too well and if the folks where you bought the stove from are correct it appears that it may also lead to burn issues.
I'm trying to stay away from the bad 3 letter word and such things as negative pressure in the house (caused by operating suckers (fans) that vent outside or other causes of insufficient intake air).
Do you know the altitude of your location?
What does that mean that its only at 98%...
On high your combustion motor should be seeing 115 volts if it is a 115 volt part 113 volts is what you told us it was running at on high 113/115 = .9826 x 100 = 98.26 %
Also, what does the “rev out on the air wash system” mean?
The stove maker has a revision to the air wash system (in this case it is more of the funny gasket stuff).
What does the air wash system do.
An air wash system "attempts" to keep the glass clean so you can admire the lovely romantic flames while snuggling up to your lovely wife.
If you go to comcast.net and use that search window, type in “profile 30 manual” it is a PDF link about the 7th link down… Its fiamma.us/ yada yada yada…
As you can tell I done went and got the manual.
On high your combustion motor should be seeing 115 volts if it is a 115 volt part 113 volts is what you told us it was running at on high 113/115 = .9826 x 100 = 98.26 %
Also, what does the “rev out on the air wash system” mean?
The stove maker has a revision to the air wash system (in this case it is more of the funny gasket stuff).
What does the air wash system do.
An air wash system "attempts" to keep the glass clean so you can admire the lovely romantic flames while snuggling up to your lovely wife.
If you go to comcast.net and use that search window, type in “profile 30 manual” it is a PDF link about the 7th link down… Its fiamma.us/ yada yada yada…
As you can tell I done went and got the manual.
Thanks for taking your time and reading my manual. I appreciate that. I'm thinking that 3 letter word may be the solution to my trouble here. I started up the stove on high. Let it burn for about 30 minutes. Went down to see it and it everywhere in the firebox, rolling and very widespread out. kind slow looking. I opened the window in the room about 3 inches and felt the air rush in through the window, no breeze outside either. About 30 secnds later, the fire was very bright, controlled, and fast....Then I closed it, and about 10 minutes went by and its back to widespread big lazy fire. Open the window back up, about a minute went by and its fast and controlled and bright again. I think I need an OAK... What do you think?
Certainly sounds like it is a major cause. But I will let STB give the final answer. He seems like he has a good handle on your stove.
Again keep us posted.
Again keep us posted.
I promised not to mention that word, sounds like your house just cant provide enough good oxygen laden air to use. I think folks will discover that houses they thought weren't very tight in some aspects might be in other respects. There is an article I came across dealing with depressurized houses the house doesn't really need to be tight just the pressure difference has to be in the wrong direction. Now I also understand that basement OAK set up can present problems as well (I have one, in the basement in new tight construction, wouldn't burn without one, it doesn't bother me that others don't). Mike Holton, the England Stove Works rep on here understands the issue quite well as England requires them on all of its pellet stoves. I understand that other manufactures are going that way as well. They are mandatory in mobile homes.
As soon as the stove sucks all of the good air out it can't get anymore.
When you eliminate things as not being the cause one or more of what's left has to be at least part of the issue. In the case of a bad burn it may be a combination of causes and take awhile to run down through the list.
Sort of like pulling teeth without Novocaine, painfully slow for the pullie.
An aside to Fish On his stove should be able to burn standard grade pellets or better, just needs enough air.
As soon as the stove sucks all of the good air out it can't get anymore.
When you eliminate things as not being the cause one or more of what's left has to be at least part of the issue. In the case of a bad burn it may be a combination of causes and take awhile to run down through the list.
Sort of like pulling teeth without Novocaine, painfully slow for the pullie.
An aside to Fish On his stove should be able to burn standard grade pellets or better, just needs enough air.
Yea I guess so. I've tried everything else here. The final straw was when I opened the window and the fire improved that much that quickly.
can I use PVC to get from outside, through the wall, and down the wall. Then attach some automotive 2" metal flexpipe from the PVC to the stove with clamps? Some say you cant use PVC. Why?
can I use PVC to get from outside, through the wall, and down the wall. Then attach some automotive 2" metal flexpipe from the PVC to the stove with clamps? Some say you cant use PVC. Why?
1BadTitan said:
Yup.
I hope you understand why the questions about cleaning etc ... kept being asked, I'll wager the fellow with the 80% of stove issues are caused by dirty stoves tag line might actually be on the low side however it presents the same way as your problem did.
Been there 1BadTitan, only I had an OAK from the get go, am past that point, and hopefully with the rev to my convection blower system I installed today the last of my stove issues have been solved.
Your having trouble too? You have an OAK... did you install it from the beginning? How does it differfrom without the kit? I understand about the cleaning questions, I questioned myself about that a few times. There's just nothing else I can clean on this thing.
1BadTitan said:
Yes I've had trouble, the last issue was caused by a design flaw, the convection blower motor was too close to the firebox, the excess heat was drying out the bearings causing the motor to eventually thermal off, which leads to the over temperature snap disc going snap, the auger stopping, and eventually the stove to enter shutdown. This wasn't a burn problem however. Stove fire is fine, can go well over a week without having any crud building up in the burn pot.
The solution was a 4+ inch long angled extension for the blower assembly and a new blower, what was already a very cramped area to work in is now a real knuckle scrapper.
When the stove was installed I had an OAK installed. I still had issues with a bad burn. One of the causes was a louvered cap on the OAK, my stove can not operate properly with out a full 2" air intake line, another cause was burn pot air bypass corrected by a simple gasket, the gasket caused the burn pot to warp as the pot wasn't properly welded causing another air bypass, a new revised burn pot cured that problem. I also had a bad combustion blower, due to a blown bearing it was running a little slow, just not enough air flow. I also was burning one of the early batches of MWP which didn't even meet standard pellet grade. I think I've seen enough things that can trip up air flows through the stoves.
You shouldn't use PVC anywhere in your air path, technically it is part of your exhaust system and in fact might vent smoke if you lose power (yet another reason I have an OAK).
I own a Whitfield Profile 30 FS-2 and have successfully burned hardwood (white lightning) and a soft/hard blend made by lignetics. I do not have an OAK installed, but may put one in for the hell of it. The fine-trim settings to adapt the stove to different pellets were meant to be adjusted by service techs only, hence the lack of documentation on them. The fine trim settings are located behind a small flap near the bottom of the main control panel. If anyone knows the procedure to adjust these settings, please chime in. My overall opinion of stove is mixed, as mine as become a bit of a rattle trap even tho it is only two years old.
I have also been told (by a service tech) that this stove runs best with a straight horizontal vent arrangement, FWIW. Mine was originally direct vented via a short 3 foot horizontal run directly out of the stove, through the exterior wall, ending with a 45 angle to direct the exhaust down a bit. I have since added a T and a short rise because I did not like all the sparks I was seeing coming out of the straight hoizontal run as originally installed.
Well, I just checked on it and the burn pot is starting to fill up. It was running with the room window open, which should be the equivalent to an OAK. This was a 5hr run. This is getting frustrating. The only thing that this can be at this point is no enough air going through. If it was clogged exhaust, the pressure switch would trip and stop the auger feed. Thats all thats left. What now? I dont think I want a tech modding my "air wash system" to "make it work". Is there a way to increase my combustion blower speed? Would that help?
jjdesch said:
I don't think that I ever attempt to do a straight out vent system on a wood burner, I don't want my house full of smoke if the power goes poof.
1BadTitan said:
Yes both the air wash change and having the tech adjust the combustion air blower and the pellet feed (it may be out of timing) should help. It is also possible that your combustion air blower has a problem. That mod is a factory mod and really should be installed.
Yep. I had an overflowing burnpot problem last year and the tech slowed down the auger feed and increased combustion fan speed via the fine trim adjustments hidden under the flap on the main control panel. This solved the problem for me.
1BadTitan said:
Well they evidently didn't do a proper setup as far as I can tell. The air wash mod is factory the fact that on high your combustion blower isn't at its rated voltage .....
It should be their nickel, especially since you paid for installation (or at least I think you paid for installation).
I installed it... It's my 3rd install, first problem child. Where did you find the voltage rating for high speed?
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