I am new to stoves but looking to buy a used stove to place in a new build cabin. I believe it is a Jotul Series 8 based on the appearance and tag on back. See photos. I noticed there is an option to vent out the top. Is there a special piece required to cover the vent that is coming out the back? Or can the round cap just be moved from the top to the back vent? And are fire bricks required for this model? Or any other things to look for before buying?
Advice when purchasing used Jotul Series 8?
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The flue outlet on the back is reversible, but the stove does not vent out the top. This most likely is a catalytic stove. In addition to general condition and no cracks, you'll want to know the condition of the bypass, burnplates, fireback and catalyst assembly.
Thanks. What is that round hole/plug on the top, as seen in the picture? And for the bypass, burnplate, firebrick and catalyst, what would those items look like if they were in fair or poor condition?
I'm no expert but I've had the same stove for 25 years, great stove. Based on the label plate stating it's a catalytic, it's probably the Series 8 AP. The round hole at the top is, I believe, simply there to replace if it wears out. It's the top of the stove so that piece gets quite hot... after 24 years I replaced mine... IIRC due to it becoming a bit thin, or maybe the edges were starting to recede a bit... but it definitely had a funky gasket that didn't seal anymore due to the wear on the part. There are no firebricks, there are burn plates (essentially steel plates on the walls of the stove) to protect the outer walls.
Lift the top of the stove off (no bolts, just lift) and operate the bypass damper on the top left. you'll see the damper open and close. inspect that bypass damper for signs of "melting", like a corner that isn't there, cracks, or anything that doesn't allow a good seal... but the gasket can be easily replaced if that's the only problem with the seal. Look inside at the plates on the 2 walls for cracks or melted areas. For example, I can see in your photos that the back burn plate has melted away, that's the part inside on the bottom of the back wall, leaving jagged edges on the plate. See my post this morning and that's what it's supposed to look like. Mine has done that twice, although I never overfire it, and I'm not sure exaclty why or what the permanent fix is, but based solely on my experience I'm guessing it's not uncommon. It's a relatively easy fix if nothing is rusted too badly.
On the catalytic, read the manual... it explains all about it. You're looking for cracks or missing pieces, although it's harder to tell if the catalytic looks ok but has been poisoned... there may be others who can tell you better about that. FWIW I spent about $700 replacing parts a few years ago... back burn plate, top hole cover, catalytic, and I think the front grate but I can't remember right now. Money well spent, and my stove should now last another 10-20 if everything else holds. So after 20 years of use it's normal to need some replacement parts. PB Blaster is your friend for those rusted/heated bolts. And on occasion, a good drill or bolt/screw extractor (if you're lucky enough for it to work) to drill out the really stubborn ones.
Here's more info and parts: https://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/details/8634/Series-8-and-Series-8AP/8639.html
FWIW, if you're unsure get someone who knows stoves to look it over... theyr'e not rocket science, but you don't want to fire a broken stove to 600. And unless they were replaced recently, I'd repalce all the gaskets so you're starting fresh with good seals. Good luck... this baby kicks out a lot of heat and has an 8 hr overnight burn, and I've read that some Jotul salespeople say it's the best stove Jotul ever made.
Lift the top of the stove off (no bolts, just lift) and operate the bypass damper on the top left. you'll see the damper open and close. inspect that bypass damper for signs of "melting", like a corner that isn't there, cracks, or anything that doesn't allow a good seal... but the gasket can be easily replaced if that's the only problem with the seal. Look inside at the plates on the 2 walls for cracks or melted areas. For example, I can see in your photos that the back burn plate has melted away, that's the part inside on the bottom of the back wall, leaving jagged edges on the plate. See my post this morning and that's what it's supposed to look like. Mine has done that twice, although I never overfire it, and I'm not sure exaclty why or what the permanent fix is, but based solely on my experience I'm guessing it's not uncommon. It's a relatively easy fix if nothing is rusted too badly.
On the catalytic, read the manual... it explains all about it. You're looking for cracks or missing pieces, although it's harder to tell if the catalytic looks ok but has been poisoned... there may be others who can tell you better about that. FWIW I spent about $700 replacing parts a few years ago... back burn plate, top hole cover, catalytic, and I think the front grate but I can't remember right now. Money well spent, and my stove should now last another 10-20 if everything else holds. So after 20 years of use it's normal to need some replacement parts. PB Blaster is your friend for those rusted/heated bolts. And on occasion, a good drill or bolt/screw extractor (if you're lucky enough for it to work) to drill out the really stubborn ones.
Here's more info and parts: https://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/details/8634/Series-8-and-Series-8AP/8639.html
FWIW, if you're unsure get someone who knows stoves to look it over... theyr'e not rocket science, but you don't want to fire a broken stove to 600. And unless they were replaced recently, I'd repalce all the gaskets so you're starting fresh with good seals. Good luck... this baby kicks out a lot of heat and has an 8 hr overnight burn, and I've read that some Jotul salespeople say it's the best stove Jotul ever made.
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I don't see an ashpan. It there's none, it's just a series 8. The top round plate is the cook plate I think.
Back on this chain with another question. I got the stove and replacement parts, did some work on it last week and it's nearly finished. Had some issues with screws breaking off but I drilled them out and got them replaced. BUT, I got thinking about whether the basic machined nuts and bolts I got from the hardware store are suitable inside the stove? Are special nuts/bolts required or recommended for such high heat?
I've been burning a series 8 all winter and here are some general things i have discovered:
-Allegedly if you place some 1x2" fiberglass wool(the white insulation from stove shops that comes in sheets) behind the bottom portion of the perforated back burn plate it will help mitigate meltdowns/warping. That's what a jotul tech told me over the phone once.
-The "cook plate" on top is for connecting to and operating like a fireplace, you will bypass the catalytic system.
- be careful lining up the chimney pipe connector to the body of the stove. It's really easy to bolt it on a little off center and it will leak a small amount of smoke when you have it really cranking.
-I removed by baffle plate because it makes it easier to load wood and i'm fairly certain it has a tendency to warp and stretch the bolts to the damper plate hinges in the process(as of now they are $70/ea, made to order, and you will need 2 if that happens).
-be sure to gasket both the bypass damper opening and the bypass damper door, otherwise it wont seal.
-this stove heats really well. I've heated my drafty 1200 sq ft house to the mid 70's on a little under 2 cords. average 8 hour burns. best i've gotten is 10 (firebox stuffed with firewood above the door, inadvisable).
-Allegedly if you place some 1x2" fiberglass wool(the white insulation from stove shops that comes in sheets) behind the bottom portion of the perforated back burn plate it will help mitigate meltdowns/warping. That's what a jotul tech told me over the phone once.
-The "cook plate" on top is for connecting to and operating like a fireplace, you will bypass the catalytic system.
- be careful lining up the chimney pipe connector to the body of the stove. It's really easy to bolt it on a little off center and it will leak a small amount of smoke when you have it really cranking.
-I removed by baffle plate because it makes it easier to load wood and i'm fairly certain it has a tendency to warp and stretch the bolts to the damper plate hinges in the process(as of now they are $70/ea, made to order, and you will need 2 if that happens).
-be sure to gasket both the bypass damper opening and the bypass damper door, otherwise it wont seal.
-this stove heats really well. I've heated my drafty 1200 sq ft house to the mid 70's on a little under 2 cords. average 8 hour burns. best i've gotten is 10 (firebox stuffed with firewood above the door, inadvisable).
