What is normally done to adapt an 8 inch smoke pipe to EKO 25? I believe the EKO measures 200 mm.
Adapting 8 inch smoke pipe to EKO 25
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Some stove shops I've been to visit that sold imported stoves had adapter sleeves available to hook up European standard stovepipe output to American stovepipe. My Tarm came with one in the crate.
Fred61 said:
In my case ai used a straight section of 7" double-wall insulated stainless flue pipe. The interlock collar fit perfectly, with just enough gap around the OD of the EKO thimble to tamp in a 3/8" rope gasket.
When I got my Eko into the basement I started looking at this, I measured the eko and it was roughly 7 3/8" ID it made more sense to me to drop down to a 7" pipe since that was the size of my thimble. When Timberr got his he said he was able to slide an 8" pipe I believe, right into it -so something apparently changed from the time when I got mine to when he received his. Anyhow I spent $50 on having an Hvac specialist make up an adapter so I got a nice tight fit and transition. The other way is to slide whatever pipe on and seal it with refractory cement to make up the difference, though the gasket sounds like a good idea if it doesn't leak and its cheaper.
Thanks,
I doubt that I will be able to shrink an 8" down small enough to get it to slide into the exit since I want it to go on the inside. I may look around for a tin knocker that will make a shoe horn but I don't think I will want to spend 50 bucks. There used to be a guy around here that could whip up something like that in 5 minutes. He made several plenums for me in the past but he's a long time dead. I guess the tin knocker route will be first and if that's too expensive, I'll try other possibilities. Upon failure I might be forced the do the $50 thing.
I doubt that I will be able to shrink an 8" down small enough to get it to slide into the exit since I want it to go on the inside. I may look around for a tin knocker that will make a shoe horn but I don't think I will want to spend 50 bucks. There used to be a guy around here that could whip up something like that in 5 minutes. He made several plenums for me in the past but he's a long time dead. I guess the tin knocker route will be first and if that's too expensive, I'll try other possibilities. Upon failure I might be forced the do the $50 thing.
It's worth mentioning that during the process of learning how to run this thing, you may get one or more wood gas explosions. It's very highly suggested that you secure your stovepipe so that it can't be blown off. I used steel pipe hanger straps and pop rivets.
I was able to slide one side of an 8" T (black flue pipe) directly over the outside of the thimble on the back of the boiler. Worked out nice, put a clean out on the bottom and ran some more black pipe above that till I got to my insulated.
On my EKO 25, installed in Sept. 2008, I used a Selkirk Doublewall 8"-7" reducer on the back of the stove. This is stainless steel duoble wall flue pipe, painted black. on the reducer, the inner crimped section fit inside the EKO collar with a very slight modification to bend the crimps in. The outer lip then fits overtop(outside) the EKO collar, with a slight gap. I filled the gap with gasket material and secured it with stainless screws threaded into holes I drilled and tapped into the EKO collar.
This reducer goes into a 7" Tee, which I regularly have apart for cleaning. The rest of my flue pipe and chimney is 7" i.d.
I used the Selkirk Doublewall to connect the EKO to the chimney thimble because it gives me a 6" clearance to combustables - space is tight where the chimney thimble comes down through the ceiling. It was expensive, though - the adapter alone cost about $80.
Dave at Cozy Heat showed me that a 7" stainless steel insulated Tee (1" wall) will slip right over the EKO collar. Here in Canada, the code is 2" wall insulated chimney, so a 6" Tee could be used. I don't know if this would be enough draft, though.
This reducer goes into a 7" Tee, which I regularly have apart for cleaning. The rest of my flue pipe and chimney is 7" i.d.
I used the Selkirk Doublewall to connect the EKO to the chimney thimble because it gives me a 6" clearance to combustables - space is tight where the chimney thimble comes down through the ceiling. It was expensive, though - the adapter alone cost about $80.
Dave at Cozy Heat showed me that a 7" stainless steel insulated Tee (1" wall) will slip right over the EKO collar. Here in Canada, the code is 2" wall insulated chimney, so a 6" Tee could be used. I don't know if this would be enough draft, though.
I was able to get the male side of a 8" stove pipe elbow into my EKO 40. I just made 4-5 slits in from the end and then compressed it until it fit inside the EKO. Once it was inside I reached into the primary combustion chamber to tamp the stove pipe against the EKO flue exit. Once it was reasonably tight I used several stainless sheet metal screws to secure the pipe, and then added a little stove cement around the connection. Made for a good tight fit with no leaks.
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