You will need a fan back there. The Answer is small. As for clearances, and I’m not expert, I’m guessing they don’t change based on how far in the fireplace the stove sits. Is a hearth instal. And clearances are listed in the manual with no variance for how far in or out of the fireplace. Further back makes it safer but it wasn’t tested so we have to use the clearances listed in the manual. Look them up.Alright y'all. Found a used Anser for $600. Gonna see how old it is and gauge my interest/willingness to drive the hour and spend the cash.
It seems like a good candidate to sit entirely within the existing fireplace and not have to worry about any clearances. I know it's definitely not half as cool as the Fireview and won't put out nearly as much heat for as long as the 1800i, but the price seems right given our current level of investment and I can always upgrade down the road.
Also, I figure I can make it look like an insert with some bent steel and a rattle can if the boss doesn't dig it.
Can I pretty much butt it up to the back wall of the fireplace without issue?
Let me know if I'm goin' down a bad road.
Thanks as always.
Yes, that small gap is easy to fill with a strip of angle metal or flat stock.Could I just fill that in with heat painted steel or aluminum?
If I had a heatpump I’d choose the Neo. My thoughts are it’s not going to ever be low and slow.Here's the current decision situation, flat liner kit cost included but could probably piece together for less. Will also need a stove board/hearth extension as well:
- P. E. Neo 2.5: Dealer can get it within a week or so. $5,000 or a bit more with block off, insulation etc
- BK Sirrocco: A bit over $4,000 after tax credit. Won't be in stock until (hopefully) late October, but my ash splits will need all of shoulder season anyhow. (If not longer)
- Clydesdale - $4,950 after credit with more for block off plate, insulation etc.
The others I've looked at (Lopi large and medium flush, Regency CI2700) range from $6,700-$6,200 respectively.
So I guess the question at this point is whether the more expensive units are worth the premium?
Worth noting that the first three listed also don't need additional heat shielding for the combustible trim above while I think the others may.
Lastly, still waiting to hear on the $300 c550.
As always, any thoughts are appreciated and have been greatly appreciated thus far.
The top plate seals the old flue so it’s important. Insulation and a blockoff plate are important too. Cleaning bottom up?Furthermore, if I can run the liner through the top of the multi-flue cap, can I avoid having to buy a top plate? The clay flue in question is like 20x20 OD and I am having a hard time finding something that'll fit, so I figure I could just put something like this on top of the multi-flue to secure the liner. https://www.plumbersstock.com/duravent-9084-6dp-vc-6in-triwall-vent-top.html
If this will work, will I just then need an appropriate length of liner, an adaptor into the unit, and aforementioned cap? Also planning on buying an insulation kit for the liner.
Thanks all.
Getting up on the roof or not. Top down without poking through the multi cap means removing the multi cap. Bottom up with a soot eater is popular.Good to know on the top plate. I know I'd seen other installations where they use insulation ther as well. I imagine I could either fabricate a top plate or have one fabricated pretty easily?
And insulation and block-off plate are definitely part of the plan.
Not sure on cleaning- that is a road I figured I'd cross when the time came. What are the considerations with that?
Thank you!
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