A Whole New Game

[Woody Stover]

I like to stack as much as I can in the fall. The easy initial moisture in the fresh-cut wood will still leave fairly quickly in the breezy fall conditions, even though the temps aren't as high. By the time the remaining moisture is harder to get out of the wood, the spring breezes and summer heat will be coming to really hammer on that wood.

 

[paul bunion]

As for separating the wood, we sometimes will separate out some of the oak but usually everything just goes into the stacks as we grab it. Like "Ow my back hurts" stated, once you get on the 3 year plan, you can do whatever your heart desires and not worry about it.

That is about how I operate. Stack it and don't worry about what is it. Some segregation happens anyway and if a lot of one species shows up then a row or two might be exclusive. I don't mind burning some maple or what not in the evening so that it will be burnt down by bedtime when I load the stove for the overnight with oak or the like. No matter what it's nice to throw in a piece of cherry because it smells so good.

 

[Woody Stover]

Oh to have a bunch of wood choices.
I separate spruce & birch, & season spruce 1 year & birch 3 years.

FHC should take up a collection and build an assorted load for Dave....we could have a bush pilot air-drop it in.
But then he will have to worry about separating the wood by type, drying time and all that jazz. I kind of yearn for the simpler times when all I had was wet Red Oak. It was a more relaxing existence back then....except for the chimney fires!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I still can't figure out why it takes wood so long to dry out. It is basically a bunch of straws in a tight package. Water moves up and down a tree easily when it is alive. Why is it so hard to dry a 16" piece that has been split to about 6" diameter? Three years is an awful long time for that piece to give up its water. Especially, since you are only drying to 20% or so.

Water moves up and down a tree easily when it is alive. Yes, that is the key. When it is alive. Things change when life goes away.

 

[JayD]

If I dry my sheets outside and they freeze stiff​

Ya but they sure smell nice though don't they Leave em out there they will dry. Jay

 

[ScotO]

Four words......get three years ahead.....

I still try to stack the different species individually, but I don't get too crazy. All of my wood has three to four years to season......no worries about it being ready at all.

 

[swagler85]

I still can't figure out why it takes wood so long to dry out. It is basically a bunch of straws in a tight package. Water moves up and down a tree easily when it is alive. Why is it so hard to dry a 16" piece that has been split to about 6" diameter? Three years is an awful long time for that piece to give up its water. Especially, since you are only drying to 20% or so.

I can't tell you why but can tell you from trying pieces the last few years that haven't had that drying time vs ones that had the drying time there is a huge difference. The pieces that had time to dry lit up easier and put out less creosote on the glass.

 

[NortheastAl]

I can't tell you why but can tell you from trying pieces the last few years that haven't had that drying time vs ones that had the drying time there is a huge difference. The pieces that had time to dry lit up easier and put out less creosote on the glass.

I know, it does make a huge difference. Wish there were some tests to see which way is most effective. Whether to cover or leave uncovered. Is it sun, wind or a combination of sun, wind rain, freezing and so forth.

 

[Bret Chase]

I know, it does make a huge difference. Wish there were some tests to see which way is most effective. Whether to cover or leave uncovered. Is it sun, wind or a combination of sun, wind rain, freezing and so forth.

It's wind + sun..... if you have to cover, only cover the tops, and only in the winter....

 

[NortheastAl]

It's wind + sun..... if you have to cover, only cover the tops, and only in the winter....

That's what I'm planning on this year. Might cover while the leaves are dropping, and then uncover till winter.

 

[Jon1270]

I still can't figure out why it takes wood so long to dry out. It is basically a bunch of straws in a tight package.

Not really. Wood is more like a conglomeration of millions of tiny sealed bags of water, with long holes going through it. Also, the holes are often partially or fully stoppered up with tyloses, especially in heartwood.

The cracks that appear in the winter time may just be the water freezing and expanding the wood just like water widening a crack in concrete. When I moved in, there was locust that was dried in our garage which is quite a bit warmer and I do not believe would be prone to freezing. It was in there for about 6 years. Checked the moisture. It was about 13% moisture. There are virtually no checks in the wood.

The cracks in drying wood are not like frost cracks in concrete. Cracks develop in the ends of splits because the ends usually dry (and thus shrink) faster than the middles. The differing rates of shrinkage create stress, and cracking relieves that stress. There's much less cracking when the wood is dried more slowly, as it would be in a garage where there's no sun or wind.

 

[Jon1270]

Four words......get three years ahead.....

I know being three years out is the gold standard but because I'm short on space, I've been thinking about alternative strategies. I can only store about 2 winters' worth, but I don't want to give up entirely on oak because it's nice, and there's a lot of it available around me.

In theory, if I keep my woodpile stocked in these proportions...

• one part wood that dries in one year
• two parts wood that dries in two years
• three parts wood that dries in three years

Then I can burn through half of the store by volume in these proportions, every year:

• one part wood that dries in one year
• one part wood that dries in two years
• one part wood that dries in three years

It will be more work to manage this way, but its an option for us nearly-landless city dwellers that doesn't necessitate buying already-dry wood or burning nothing but soft maple.

 

[NortheastAl]

I know being three years out is the gold standard but because I'm short on space, I've been thinking about alternative strategies. I can only store about 2 winters' worth, but I don't want to give up entirely on oak because it's nice, and there's a lot of it available around me.

In theory, if I keep my woodpile stocked in these proportions...

• one part wood that dries in one year
• two parts wood that dries in two years
• three parts wood that dries in three years

Then I can burn through half of the store by volume in these proportions, every year:

• one part wood that dries in one year
• one part wood that dries in two years
• one part wood that dries in three years

It will be more work to manage this way, but its an option for us nearly-landless city dwellers that doesn't necessitate buying already-dry wood or burning nothing but soft maple.

Having limited space to store wood is one problem I have as well. I have land that has slopes where it is impossible to stack. The edges of the property are best for single row stacks as border walls. The issue is that they are in the shadiest part of the property. It will take longer to dry there. Still trying to work out a plan to get three full years ahead. I'm sure I will eventually get there.

 

[Augie]

I know being three years out is the gold standard but because I'm short on space, I've been thinking about alternative strategies. I can only store about 2 winters' worth, but I don't want to give up entirely on oak because it's nice, and there's a lot of it available around me.

All you need is a good sunny spot and a inexpensive Solar Kiln setup made with cheap clear plastic. Using this I have successfully seasoned Oak to below 20% in 120 days this spring/summer. This means that I really only need one year CSS & seasoned on hand and working on the second year. I used 3 cord last year, I have 3 cord on hand CCS and seasoned with my stacks started for next year, I will me putting the solar kiln setup on some red oak(to be burned 14/15) this winter, thought is that it will be ready sometime late May when I can move it to another Cord of oak that will be ready late August. This rotating two cord strategy along with some faster seasoning wood keeps me in Seasoned wood without taking up too much of my smallish lot. If I really have to next year Ill make two solar kilns and should be able to season 4 total cords every year.

 

[NortheastAl]

All you need is a good sunny spot and a inexpensive Solar Kiln setup made with cheap clear plastic. Using this I have successfully seasoned Oak to below 20% in 120 days this spring/summer. This means that I really only need one year CSS & seasoned on hand and working on the second year. I used 3 cord last year, I have 3 cord on hand CCS and seasoned with my stacks started for next year, I will me putting the solar kiln setup on some red oak(to be burned 14/15) this winter, thought is that it will be ready sometime late May when I can move it to another Cord of oak that will be ready late August. This rotating two cord strategy along with some faster seasoning wood keeps me in Seasoned wood without taking up too much of my smallish lot. If I really have to next year Ill make two solar kilns and should be able to season 4 total cords every year.

Augie, I'd be interested in how well that kiln seasoned oak burns. I read some articles on solar kilns done small scale don't really work that well. They have to be large enough to really generate enough heat to be effective. I may be wrong, so I'm curious to see if you are getting that 20% reading in a fresh resplit, but I heard there are issues with mold and excess humidity inside the kiln.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

That's what I'm planning on this year. Might cover while the leaves are dropping, and then uncover till winter.

I wouldn't bother covering then uncovering. I never worry about the leaves either. They fall, the blow off, they pose no problems for us.

 

[NortheastAl]

I wouldn't bother covering then uncovering. I never worry about the leaves either. They fall, the blow off, they pose no problems for us.

That then takes the pressure off, Dennis. I accept your expert advice and will forego the top cover until winter. On my deck I keep a steel holder that holds a single row 4'x4'. I covered it with a corrugated plastic cover in the winter. Did not really cover most of the stacked wood unless it was going to be rain and not snow.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Thanks Al. I'll be moving wood into the barn sometime in October. Still have not got last winter's wood stacked so have to get that stacked soon and will cover it in November or December. That is, if I get it stacked. Geeze, I've never been this late. However, the wood will not be needed for many, many moons so we're not concerned about the wood. Only concerned about my lack of getting things done this year.

 

[NortheastAl]

Thanks Al. I'll be moving wood into the barn sometime in October. Still have not got last winter's wood stacked so have to get that stacked soon and will cover it in November or December. That is, if I get it stacked. Geeze, I've never been this late. However, the wood will not be needed for many, many moons so we're not concerned about the wood. Only concerned about my lack of getting things done this year.

Dennis, slow and steady wins the race. Don't push yourself if you can't keep up the same pace as before. I'm sure a much needed respite is in order. You've probably gotten far enough ahead where taking it easier might still be okay. Next year you can get all fired up and stay at it. Be well, my friend.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I agree Al. I've been forced to slow down. Don't really like it but have to live with it. As for the firewood, we have plenty of years worth of wood put up.

I've really noticed climbing is really tough since getting both hips replaces. So today I was climbing the ladders checking on peaches and also putting shiny stuff on the trees to try to keep the hummingbirds in check. Can't climb up those ladders very many times for sure. Just had to quit even though the job was not done. I did get more apples though and started getting things around so we can make some cider. Hopefully that will get done tomorrow.

 

[NortheastAl]

I agree Al. I've been forced to slow down. Don't really like it but have to live with it. As for the firewood, we have plenty of years worth of wood put up.

I've really noticed climbing is really tough since getting both hips replaces. So today I was climbing the ladders checking on peaches and also putting shiny stuff on the trees to try to keep the hummingbirds in check. Can't climb up those ladders very many times for sure. Just had to quit even though the job was not done. I did get more apples though and started getting things around so we can make some cider. Hopefully that will get done tomorrow.

You've still got me beat by a mile. That would plum wear me out in one day. My arthritis won't let me do the things I used to once do, so I have come to terms by allowing myself limits. Yes, I can push the envelope sometimes, but I've gotten to where it is better to slow down rather than hurt myself. I don't do ladders very well anymore either. 2 spills from low height was enough to keep me off most times now. Had the gutters covered with screens this year when I had them replaced. Little things here and there to make it easier, helps.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Sounds like we are somewhat in the same boat. As for the covered gutters, I can see no other way to go! Around here they would get plugged in no time flat.

 

[blujacket]

Dennis, how long have you been burning wood for heat?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

50+ years. We're just getting started!

 

[blujacket]

Wow. That's a lot of cords!