48 feet of wood shed

[bogydave]

Got the last section up. (had to take a fishing break) Need to get some roofing on it before too long but dry
enough with tarps till the wind blows them away.
Need to find someone with "Gumption" to move the rest of the wood into the shed in the rain
Guessing 2/3 full for this section for what's left.

 

[savageactor7]

I really like its simplicity...how many cords you figure.

 

['bert]

Very impressive - I like very much!

 

[SolarAndWood]

When you are sitting, that railing is going to obstruct your view.

 

[BucksCoBernie]

holy chit it grew! how many cords do you go through up there?

 

[smokinj]

MONEY!

 

[rdust]

Awesome!

I would be interested to know how well the wood in the middle seasons or is it all seasoned before placing in the shed? Doesn't seem like much(if any) air flow will reach the middle.

 

[bogydave]

I really like its simplicity...how many cords you figure.

Roughly 5 cords each section

 

[bogydave]

When you are sitting, that railing is going to obstruct your view.

May have to remove the railing

 

[bogydave]

Awesome!

I would be interested to know how well the wood in the middle seasons or is it all seasoned before placing in the shed? Doesn't seem like much(if any) air flow will reach the middle.

Middle section is: left half is spruce 6 months seasoned & was 1/2 the weight when I moved it in the shed,
right 1/2 is birch same age but still needs some time. 11/12 winter wood

Right section will be a mix of birch 8 months from standing tree to some is from tress down 18 months then cut & split

Left section is this years wood, 1-1/2 to 2 + years seasoned.

When we get our -30°f & 10% humidity with wind, I think it'll dry. (Makes a prune look like a raisin in 2 weeks )

 

[oldspark]

Awesome!

I would be interested to know how well the wood in the middle seasons or is it all seasoned before placing in the shed? Doesn't seem like much(if any) air flow will reach the middle.

Middle section is: left half is spruce 6 months seasoned & was 1/2 the weight when I moved it in the shed,
right 1/2 is birch same age but still needs some time. 11/12 winter wood

Right section will be a mix of birch 8 months from standing tree to some is from tress down 18 months then cut & split

Left section is this years wood, 1-1/2 to 2 + years seasoned.

When we get our -30°f & 10% humidity with wind, I think it'll dry. (Makes a prune look like a raisin in 2 weeks )

There is something I do not agree with, wood dries better in the higher temp. of summer spring and fall, I have also read the same thing in articles about firewood drying plus in 30 years of wood burning bears this out, but as one person pointed out to me the laws of physics are different is Iowa. To add to that wood dries best in single rows stacked in the sun and wind so I wonder how long the wood will take to dry stacked like that. That is the reason some people do not believe in wood sheds like that, my idea of a perfect wood shed would be totaly enclosed to the weather and the wood is put in there after it has set in the sun until it is dry. Just another way of doing it, the building you have is a very nice setup that should serve you well.

 

[firefighterjake]

It just keeps growing and growing . . . any more Dave and you will have to put the next section on pontoons. Looks good . . . I would be out there often to just look over the wood.

 

[Vincent]

like money in the bank

 

[Gator eye]

It sure beats diggin wood out of the snow or out from under a tarp when it 10 below out. Nice set up!!

I'm betting the wood drys better in -30 with no humidity, than the 90* and the steam bath humidity we've had here in the last few weeks. I check ash that's been cut and split over a year and it's still over 30%

 

[oldspark]

It sure beats diggin wood out of the snow or out from under a tarp when it 10 below out. Nice set up!!

I'm betting the wood drys better in -30 with no humidity, than the 90* and the steam bath humidity we've had here in the last few weeks. I check ash that's been cut and split over a year and it's still over 30%

I do not think so, any thing that dries (wood, clothes, glue) does so quicker in a higher temperture, if yu could keep the humidity low it would even be better but that is not the case in Iowa, so even though the RH in higher in summer the wood still dries quicker in the higher temp. The fall and spring are probably the prime drying time with the temps up and RH low. If I cut wood in the winter it cracks on the ends very little until the temps come up in the spring and summer, the cracks come from rapid drying on the out side compared to the inside. Why you would have ash at 30 % over a year old is beyond me as I spit some this spring that was cut green last fall and much of it is already as 20% or so.

 

[Gator eye]

It sure beats diggin wood out of the snow or out from under a tarp when it 10 below out. Nice set up!!

I'm betting the wood drys better in -30 with no humidity, than the 90* and the steam bath humidity we've had here in the last few weeks. I check ash that's been cut and split over a year and it's still over 30%

I do not think so, any thing that dries (wood, clothes, glue) does so quicker in a higher temperture, if yu could keep the humidity low it would even be better but that is not the case in Iowa, so even though the RH in higher in summer the wood still dries quicker in the higher temp. The fall and spring are probably the prime drying time with the temps up and RH low. If I cut wood in the winter it cracks on the ends very little until the temps come up in the spring and summer, the cracks come from rapid drying on the out side compared to the inside. Why you would have ash at 30 % over a year old is beyond me as I spit some this spring that was cut green last fall and much of it is already as 20% or so.

I think this subject gets argued about 3 or 4 times a year with never a clear cut answer either way.

 

[oldspark]

It sure beats diggin wood out of the snow or out from under a tarp when it 10 below out. Nice set up!!

I'm betting the wood drys better in -30 with no humidity, than the 90* and the steam bath humidity we've had here in the last few weeks. I check ash that's been cut and split over a year and it's still over 30%

I do not think so, any thing that dries (wood, clothes, glue) does so quicker in a higher temperture, if yu could keep the humidity low it would even be better but that is not the case in Iowa, so even though the RH in higher in summer the wood still dries quicker in the higher temp. The fall and spring are probably the prime drying time with the temps up and RH low. If I cut wood in the winter it cracks on the ends very little until the temps come up in the spring and summer, the cracks come from rapid drying on the out side compared to the inside. Why you would have ash at 30 % over a year old is beyond me as I spit some this spring that was cut green last fall and much of it is already as 20% or so.

I think this subject gets argued about 3 or 4 times a year with never a clear cut answer either way.

I agree but I have found info on the net to back up what I say and if you ever do any gluing you know if drys better in warmer temps so why would firewood be any different than other items that need to dry? Another thing Ash is only about 35% on the stump so why have you only dried 5% or so?

 

[Gator eye]

It sure beats diggin wood out of the snow or out from under a tarp when it 10 below out. Nice set up!!

I'm betting the wood drys better in -30 with no humidity, than the 90* and the steam bath humidity we've had here in the last few weeks. I check ash that's been cut and split over a year and it's still over 30%

I do not think so, any thing that dries (wood, clothes, glue) does so quicker in a higher temperture, if yu could keep the humidity low it would even be better but that is not the case in Iowa, so even though the RH in higher in summer the wood still dries quicker in the higher temp. The fall and spring are probably the prime drying time with the temps up and RH low. If I cut wood in the winter it cracks on the ends very little until the temps come up in the spring and summer, the cracks come from rapid drying on the out side compared to the inside. Why you would have ash at 30 % over a year old is beyond me as I spit some this spring that was cut green last fall and much of it is already as 20% or so.

I think this subject gets argued about 3 or 4 times a year with never a clear cut answer either way.

I agree but I have found info on the net to back up what I say and if you ever do any gluing you know if drys better in warmer temps so why would firewood be any different than other items that need to dry?

OK, I'll play.....freeze dried coffee? Next sub zero winter blast you get try putting you landry out on the line, they'll freeze at first but give em a few and they'll be dry when you bring em back in.

That sub zero wind will crack and dry your hands, face and lips faster than anything, just ask Suzie chapstick.

Maybe your glue doesn't work in sub zero temps because of the make up of the glue not the evaporation of moisture. Put JB weld in heat when curing and it won't cure, but put it outside in the cold and it'll stiffin up fast.

Like I say we can argue this all week and neither one of us will change our minds......later

 

[bogydave]

The "Wood drying" subject is subjective.
I burn the driest wood I have.
I never measure the moisture because moisture meters are subject to errors, minerals in the wood & wood type & it does not matter to me. I'm going to burn it either way.
Like the guys I met when cutting this inter, they take the wood home, split & burn it, because the have to keep their family warm. Not that they
can't improve but their situation called for burning what they could get.
I've learned allot here & have made many improvements on cutting & seasoning wood.
BUT
It comes down to what you got, is what you burn.
For me, being dry, covered & findable is important. It's what I have & is as dry as I can get it by the time I need it with the conditions I have.
I'll read the arguments, but in the end, burn what I got & not let it become an issue that overwhelms me.

Would I like to have perfectly sized, perfectly seasoned, perfectly stored & stacked oak? Yes, but I don't. I got what I got.

(There are much more important things to worry about & do, fishing, hunting golf )

 

[SolarAndWood]

For me, being dry, covered & findable is important.

I couldn't agree more Dave. Come October, nothing makes me happier than seeing 8 cord under a roof just outside the door.

 

[oldspark]

For me, being dry, covered & findable is important.

I couldn't agree more Dave. Come October, nothing makes me happier than seeing 8 cord under a roof just outside the door.

You dont care if it is green or not, sorry just screwing around. %-P

 

[SolarAndWood]

Nah, that is the dry part. Mine sits outside in the wind and sun until the October before the season it is to be burned. So, it is dry before it gets stacked under the roof. As much as I hate stacking, I hate digging wood out of the snow and ice more.

 

[bogydave]

I guess the ultimate would be a 100' long removable roof, 2 rows deep on a rotating turn-style to get the sun & wind working on each side.
with weather & a moisture sensors built in to control the whole thing. I'll work on it .

Time effort & money , then with all that, I'd be ahead if i just crank up the oil or gas furnace thermostat & go fishing, hunting & golfing instead of cutting wood.

 

[oldspark]

Can't help but think you missed my point, wood dries best out in the sun and wind in single rows so I like the idea of moving the wood into a completely enclosed building after the wood has cured, as I stated before (and was made fun of) your type of building will not work for me for a couple of reasons (wood takes longer to cure and will be full of snow in winter) but it is a very nice building and what ever works for you is fine. I did not bring up the time to dry the wood in this post (someone else did) for this very reason and now regret it as my point was missed. I burn about 70 per cent oak and as you know it takes longer for it to dry so another reason for me to have my wood season in the wind and sun.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I guess the ultimate would be a 100' long removable roof, 2 rows deep on a rotating turn-style to get the sun & wind working on each side.
with weather & a moisture sensors built in to control the whole thing. I'll work on it

Your missing the most important part...the auto feed into the King.

oldspark, the shed I burn out of is on the leeward side of the house. Keeps the snow/ice out and keeps me out of the wind.