$4000 complete install of Harman P35I?

[mrjohneel]

Eric/Smokey: That makes perfect sense. Thank you.
Just FYI, Harman (see my recent post "Harman Customer Service responds to OAK") says it's OK to terminate the intake pipe in the chimney if you use its screened top cap.
Thanks again.

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Eric/Smokey: That makes perfect sense. Thank you.
Just FYI, Harman (see my recent post "Harman Customer Service responds to OAK") says it's OK to terminate the intake pipe in the chimney if you use its screened top cap.
Thanks again.

But will they come to your house and scrub the carpet and the curtains? Just saying.

The spedometer on my car says it can go up to 120 mph. Do you know what the State Tropper told me when I did get this fast?


Eric

 

[Don2222]

Hello

I would have been paying about $3500 per year to heat 2,000 sqft with oil before I re-insulated the attic and added a few new double pane windows. My 45k BTU Avalon Astoria pellet stove in the basement now heats the whole house with no oil. That left me with about 450 gallons a year to heat the hot water with the old valliant with the tankless coil. Last year we installed a new Triple Pass, cold start Buderus Boiler with an outdoor reset (Tekmar 260) and an indirect hot water tank (SuperStor Ultra) that cut the oil consumption down to about 225 gallons per year. We also use 3 tons of wood pellets. So for $600 for 3 tons and $787.50 for 225 gallons of oil for a family of 4 keeping the house warm all day, $1387.50 is a little better than using 1,000 gallons for $3500.00 dollars like you are using.

I like to give names to all our heaters. see pic below.

 

[mrjohneel]

As a newbie, I find it kind of interesting to note -- as others have -- the disconnect between installers and manufacturers when it comes to pellet stoves. I guess that is to be expected in an emerging technology but it is intereting nonetheless. (A little frustrating too!)

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Eric/Smokey: That makes perfect sense. Thank you.
Just FYI, Harman (see my recent post "Harman Customer Service responds to OAK") says it's OK to terminate the intake pipe in the chimney if you use its screened top cap.
Thanks again.

Only if you turn the end of the OAK so it is pointed down and if there is air in the chimney (if it is blocked at the top then this would be inside air) and if it is blocked at the "damper" you are sucking dregs.

You want the system blocked from the elements and the end of the OAK outside where it really should be.

 

[pip3398]

Hey John,
As a dealer here, it can be a tough decision on when to install an OAK. The manufacturer's tech support people just read from preprinted tech info. Most dealers have a lot more hands on experience with the stoves they sell.
Reasons for OAK - Less cool drafts near stove, plenty of air for combustion, will prevent negative draft from a furnace running at the same time and not sending heated air out exhaust.

Reasons not to if house has enough air - cold air coming in cools flame and can bring in moisture. Intake air pipe will sometime condense because of warm air around it. This can cause moisture in the fireplace(your case) and associated issues. I have seen issues where snow being drawn in the OAK pipe cause the stove to burn dirty and formulate creosote. Plus it can be a pain to install this.

If I were you and going to install OAK I would recommend just running it up past the damper and using the chimney cavity for the air supply. This will be air that is a little warmer than direct outside air. You won't have a reverse draft situation in a power outage (a big reason not to run all the way up). You should insulate around the pipes at the damper and the dealer can use a top plate that allows air in at the flue below the cap. I would recommend this over regular chimney cap (would allow possible rain and snow into the chimney and down to your insulation. The damper area should absolutely be insulated as this will prevent cold dirty chimney air from being drawn into the house.

Hope all of this helps. and good luck with everything.

 

[mrjohneel]

Not to belabor this point, but I went to three other nearby installers today in my quest to get a Harman P35I. All were adamantly against installing an OAK (but all said they'd concede if I insisted on one). All had similar install prices ($500 to $600) over and above the cost of materials.

 

[Dr_Drum]

I suppose technically your average oil fired furnace should have an OAK too, especially considering the large CFM blowers, but it's extremely uncommon. Make your decision based on what works best for you.

Mike -

 

[kilbury]

Not to belabor this point, but I went to three other nearby installers today in my quest to get a Harman P35I. All were adamantly against installing an OAK (but all said they'd concede if I insisted on one). All had similar install prices ($500 to $600) over and above the cost of materials.

Do any of these places have certified installers? One of the things you learn about is cold air intake. Or maybe it's just the salesman that doesn't know crap! And yes there are times to use them and times they aren't needed but how can anyone say without seeing or knowing the situation is. I always just figure I'm going to be installing one and then decide if I do or don't need to when I get there.

 

[mrjohneel]

I appreciate your input balls of fire. These place I went to around Boston have good reputations. Your right though; they didn't ask about my house before rejecting the OAK outright. For the record, my 1928 house, which is not insulated in the walls particularly well, and which has storm windows over older windows, isn't drafty but can't be considered air-tight modern construction. (I have re-insulated the attic very well, and have a nice barrier block on the stairwell to the attic.) So most would say: Don't worry about an OAK. But I'm leaning towards one anyways.