I can find a 3" vent kit, but I can't find a 4" vent kit. I was looking at vent pipes online and it figures to cost me $235 or so to replace my vent pipes to 4" with a vertical rise. Does this sound right..
DAKSY said:A 4" system with a 4' rise with a starter, 6"lg, 3 to 4 tee, 4' lg, 90, wall thimble, 2 footer thru the wall & a jet cap will cost in excess of $500 if you go with Excel pellet vent...
I've got everything here in Troy if ya need it...
I spoze, tho, the question needs to be asked... WHY?
You shouldn't need 4" for most pellet stove UNLESS your
vent height is in excess of 15 FEET...
chrisasst said:Umm, well I am not sure...I was reading my manual and it says 4" will reduce the possibility of burn problems. ( I personally think I have a burn problem, maybe not IDK) I currently have direct vent, was looking to rise it up some to see if that helps also. Other than that, IDK...Just was looking for help with my burn..
On a side note....The heat must be so hot in my burn pot, because it melts and twists the pot. So what does this indicate..
chrisasst said:Umm, well I am not sure...I was reading my manual and it says 4" will reduce the possibility of burn problems. ( I personally think I have a burn problem, maybe not IDK) I currently have direct vent, was looking to rise it up some to see if that helps also. Other than that, IDK...Just was looking for help with my burn..
On a side note....The heat must be so hot in my burn pot, because it melts and twists the pot. So what does this indicate..
DAKSY said:Well, from my 10 years of pellet experience, the MAIN reason to have rise in you vent system is to allow for continued NATURAL DRAFT should the power fail. This will potentially preclude any smoke getting past your gaskets & into your home if this situation arises...
Like I said earlier, 4" is generally required for vent runs OVER 15 feet in height.
I will admit that I am not familiar with your KOZI stove, so maybe it's engineered differently than others...
Your burn pot is a pretty harsh environment - as is ANY burn pot - & metal, whether cast, forged or plate stock, can only take so much heat...
dac122 said:I agree the only time I've ever heard to switch to 4" is when you reach a certain length. But the proper way to measure this is with Total Equivalent Length (TEL).
TEL gives higher weights to elbows and tees, whereas straight pipes use just their length. For instance a 45 elbow can reduce draft by as much as 15% giving it a TEL of 1-3'.
Using TEL, a system with few short straight pipes, but many elbows and a tee might need increasing to 4" to restore its proper draft.
Not all manufacturers use TEL to determine if you need to increase to 4", but this should help you understand the general concept of when to got to 4".
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