New to Eko--bypass flap

[kmjoyce]

Hi,
I have had my EKO for a couple of weeks and have a question. When I push the rod to open the bypass flap (I am sorry, I am not sure of the proper term), the flap that opens the top chamber to the flue, it frequently sticks because of the creosote in the top chamber. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
I am really enjoying this boiler and appreciate the info from this forum.
Thanks!

 

[Nofossil]

Hi,
I have had my EKO for a couple of weeks and have a question. When I push the rod to open the bypass flap (I am sorry, I am not sure of the proper term), the flap that opens the top chamber to the flue, it frequently sticks because of the creosote in the top chamber. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
I am really enjoying this boiler and appreciate the info from this forum.
Thanks!

Welcome to the forum and to the boiler room. The sticking bypass damper problem seems to be common to the newer EKOs - my older model doesn't have that problem. There have been a few threads discussing it - try searching on 'EKO sticking bypass' and see what turns up.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Somebody recently suggested putting high-temp axle grease on the damper, which they said worked. It does go away over time, though in my case, it will occasionally crop back up. What I did was to turn the firebox handle around so that you can open the door when the bypass damper is closed. I just drove out the little setpin holding the handle in place, turned the handle around and reset the pin. I think on the newer models you might have to grind it off. Anyway, with the door open, you can poke the damper open with a broomstick or some other long tool. Preferably when the fire has burned down to coals.

 

[kmjoyce]

Thanks for the info, I am glad that this is a common problem. Where is the pin that holds the handle in place? Is it inside of the groove the handle moves through? If so, how do you access it to be ground off?
Thanks!

 

[Eric Johnson]

Here you go. This is from an '06 EKO 60, so it may be different on newer boilers and different models. Note that my handle is upside down, so the opening to drive the pin out is on the top instead of on the bottom of the handle. Nothing to grind off--just stick a nail set into the hole and drive the pin out. At least on mine.

Older EKOs, like the one nofossil has, have a gasket on the flapper so that there's no metal-to-metal contact, which I guess is what causes the sticking when you get a layer of sticky creosote.

 

[DMX_512]

Here is the By-Pass lever and HX cleaning handle set-up on the "new style" EKO.
One of these days I will actually get around to setting this bad boy up.
The ice storm a couple of weeks ago has left a lot of downed wood here.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Will it let you open the firebox door when the bypass damper is closed? I wonder if the new ones stick.

 

[DMX_512]

Eric,
Yes, the loading door may be opened with the by-pass opened and/or closed. I will note, however, that it takes a fair amount of force to move the by-pass. I would describe it more like a deliberate motion, if that makes any sense. I have to actually grab the lever shaft instead of using only the ball, otherwise it feels as though it wants to bind on the internal rail or joint or whatever is actuating the flap.

Ben

 

[Eric Johnson]

Mine was rubbing against the shroud when I first got it. A little work with a Dremel took care of that problem and now I'd say it moves easily (when it's not stuck). You might want to check that and also put some high temp grease or graphite lube on the moving parts.

 

[Duetech]

My older EKO40 has a spring loaded off center cam so it has a tendency to "spring" back closed if there is a puff now and then. Later this summer I intend to hook up a cam lobe to the turbulator crankshaft so it will "bump" the bypass damper open when cycled and get away from fighting to get the thing open.

 

[kmjoyce]

Thanks for the information and the photos. I am having the handle modified today. It was really stuck this morning--warm temps outside, but if I am gone all day, or at night I have to load the stove or it won't make it until I get home.
The side handle looks like a better design, epically if the door can open when the bypass is closed.
Thanks!

 

[sdrobertson]

Older EKOs, like the one nofossil has, have a gasket on the flapper so that there's no metal-to-metal contact, which I guess is what causes the sticking when you get a layer of sticky creosote.

I noticed that my gasket had partially fallen off my bypass this morning - I've noticed a little more smoke out the stack for a while now and I'm thinking I have been leaking smoke out of the top chamber directly to the chimney for a while now. I cleaned the tubes out about 3 weeks ago and didn't notice it at that time but I'm not known for noticing problems before they creep up. I'm going to shut down and clean the tubes this afternoon and I'll have to check the chimney as looking through the bypass - I see some creosote in the bottom of the chimney. Has anyone had to adjust the bypass flap to insure a tight fit? I think I'll put a light in the top chamber and with the top opened while I'm cleaning the tubes, I'll check for light shinning through. I'm wondering if there is a adjustment - or if I should go directly to my "fix it fast" adjusting hammer.

 

[kmjoyce]

Thanks for the alteration photos and information. We changed the handle and now use the punch out from within method for opening the bypass when necessary. We seem to get the sticking problem when it is cold and the boiler is in heavy use rather than when it is in low usage mode on warmer days.
I still am not sure about the amount of wood to put in. I fill the fire box when it is cold, but I have to do the same when it is warmer if we are not here for extended periods.

 

[Duetech]

km,
About the best I have seen in warm or cold weather is 14 hours burn time. The idling process will eat a load of wood regardless of the ambient temperature. I use my EKO in the summer for domestic hot water and don't as yet have storage. During the summer I have found it best to start a smaller fire daily (about a 1/2 load) in the evening and let it burn out to keep enough hot water on hand.

 

[Ryedale]

I started having the same problem almost immediately too.
What I learned, is that when the creosote in the primary chamber is warm, it is almost like taffy, and is somewhat sticky and fluid. So I used the "broom handle" method a couple times as stated above. Then I realized that the creosote if it's warm still, will hold strong when you just quickly try to open the damper... however I found the last couple days, if it's stuck (usually always is) I just lean on the bypass handle, and apply steady firm force, and usually it takes about 20 seconds, but then it will just pop to the open position.
Seems to be working, but I think I will apply some anti Seize to the face where the gate hits the stove chamber. It had a machined surface, so the intent is to have a fairly tight seal. I'll use the high temp nickel anti-sieze.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

:wow: there for a second, I thought Eric and NoFo were here . . . :wow:

 

[stee6043]

I love it when these old threads come back. Man it's great. "Just like old times"...