30 NC concerns
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It with out a doubt is one of the best values out there in stoves but there are a few small issues. There are bound to be they have to keep costs down to be able to sell it at that price. I think his comparison was a good one a Hyundai is not a bad car and and the 30 is not a bad stove but you expect allot more from a bmw just like you expect more from a stove you pay allot more for
beatlefan
Feeling the Heat
My 30NC bubbled some paint off of the side in it's first season. About the size of a silver dollar. When the season was over, I sanded it off and sprayed it with high temp flat black. Perfect match and done in five minutes. However, if you're not happy, send back. They already told you that you can return it, didn't they?
It with out a doubt is one of the best values out there in stoves but there are a few small issues. There are bound to be they have to keep costs down to be able to sell it at that price. I think his comparison was a good one a Hyundai is not a bad car and and the 30 is not a bad stove but you expect allot more from a bmw just like you expect more from a stove you pay allot more for
I had a woodstock fireview that the paint flaked off the front casting around the ceramic glass. It happens to all quality levels of stoves. Woodstock sent me a can of stove brite paint and I wouldn't expect more or less from ESW.
So I talked to HOME DEPOT. They said they would exchange it no problems. You guys r saying paint it. It won't match will it????? I shouldn't have these problems.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
High temp black stove paint really is an easy touch up compared to other colors/types of paints...way more work to replace the stove than to just scuff off the flaky stuff and re-shoot it.
Anybody in the autobody industry knows how very finicky modern paints can be...
Anybody in the autobody industry knows how very finicky modern paints can be...
No doubt you will be touching up your stove in the future anyhow. If you use a tea kettle on top, it's going to get rusty. Nicks, scratches, heat spots, etc. As stated stove paint usually blends right in. Very easy to apply too. I don't think there's anyone out there who has had a stove for any length of time that hasn't touched up the paint at some point.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Actually my bk princess has some area were the paint hasn't lasted, you can clearly see the outline of the box the cat is in (shadow of light & dark paint) the paint around the ash lip looks worn away, not enough coverage. But it doesn't bother me to much because of the performance
If it is an easy swap I would exchange it. Otherwise touch it up and keep going. I have had mine for 8 years now with no issues. Except for burns on my left forarm arm. You been branded yet?
Also consider that if that one patch of paint is bad that the rest of the stove may have been underprepped, dirty, oily, end of the barrel, whatever and is more likely to peel with time as well. You are right about the match. It's easier than a car but there are several different colors of black stove paint and with time, the original color fades. You'll see the repair unless you have the right paint and are a decent spray painter. The paint job on my NC30 is excellent, actually higher quality than the BK which cost five times as much.
I checked my stove and yes, there is a weld right behind the doghouse.
Yes, I would swap out if it is easy enough. Still a pain and your new stove may not be prefect either. The way they keep these things cheap is not with poor quality. It is with mass production and with bulk sales due to the low price point. Low price point also due to not having to maintain a dealer network.
I actually respect their model. It brings the price down, while cutting out unnecessary dealer cost, gets more stoves into more homes, the units are quite stout and safe but basic. Look at Woodstock stoves. That ideal steel is cheap but is a fancy stove. Price has more to do with profit margins and dealer markup than the actual stove price.
I checked my stove and yes, there is a weld right behind the doghouse.
Yes, I would swap out if it is easy enough. Still a pain and your new stove may not be prefect either. The way they keep these things cheap is not with poor quality. It is with mass production and with bulk sales due to the low price point. Low price point also due to not having to maintain a dealer network.
I actually respect their model. It brings the price down, while cutting out unnecessary dealer cost, gets more stoves into more homes, the units are quite stout and safe but basic. Look at Woodstock stoves. That ideal steel is cheap but is a fancy stove. Price has more to do with profit margins and dealer markup than the actual stove price.
For me it would come down to is it easier to do the hassle of swapping stoves (475lbs to move, get on a truck, etc.) or repaint the stove in place...
I would repaint the stove - but that's just me.... Now if there is other issues, bad weld, missing weld - well then a stove swap would make more sense.
The bad paint on my Fireview had to be redone twice, the second time with a Stove Brite primer first. That was a cast part which can have impurities in the casting. Sheet steel on the 30NC should not have that issue and it was probably just a surface prep issue. Woodstock would have sent me a new casting, but the install looked difficult with potential problems from a botched install.... I would never consider sending the Fireview back for the issue, to much hassle moving, crating, potential for shipping damage.
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beatlefan
Feeling the Heat
Wow, that's pretty bad. Do you have a thermometer on that thing? With that happening twice in a row on two brand new units, I've got to wonder if you're overheating the stove.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Yes I have a thermometer on the stove and on the pipe. This thing takes off and runs good. I start closing the damper at 400 stove top, I keep it flush with the debris plate. Then at 600 I turn fan on low.
How many pieces of wood do people put in here? I usually stack it so that the wood is just above the bricks not over the metal holding the bricks, or touching the upper tubes. I mean this stove runs really hot she climbs over 700 sometimes, but the fan is on and it brings it right down. The pipe thermometer never goes into the overfire range and I mean never. I'm running 19" splits. I just split it this fall but the logs have been sitting there since March of 2015. I bucked them in April. I'm trying to be so careful not to overfire but I feel like I am and I don't know how this is happening.
Somebody give me advice please on what I am doing wrong I am all ears.
Somebody give me advice please on what I am doing wrong I am all ears.
Pipe temp gauge is 6" up from pipe collar off of stove. The stove top thermometer is right where the ridge of the stove is. The ridge that angles up right about where the pipe collar is in the middle of the two. Pipe temp is about 400-500° and the stove top temp just takes off. I can't control it sometimes. But I close damper at 400° then turn fan on at 600°. From there I can't control it. Sometimes she keeps climbing. It is like my wood is paper dry. I don't get it.
How are you measuring those temps? 400 to 500 pipe temp is pretty high to be running at regularly. I think you should have a pipe damper if you are having trouble controlling it
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