25PDVC pellet pile up

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Ok. Shut the stove down, let it cool off. Scrape your plate clean again. When did you last check/clean the exhaust pipe? When did you last clean the combustion blower fan, motor, blower chamber? Are you sure you got every nook and cranny clean behind the impingement plate and heat exchanger air path? Need to be systematical on this so it can be ruled out.
 
No its supposed to have a 1.0 rpm. Thats half the problem. Plug the holes under the plate with some steel wool and try it again. If it works better you can get plugs or magnets later.
 
Ok. Shut the stove down, let it cool off. Scrape your plate clean again. When did you last check/clean the exhaust pipe? When did you last clean the combustion blower fan, motor, blower chamber? Are you sure you got every nook and cranny clean behind the impingement plate and heat exchanger air path? Need to be systematical on this so it can be ruled out.
Most certainly it is cleaned up. I cleaned the stove daily or did when it was running. I clean the T out every week. As for the flue pipe itself it gets cleaned every 45 days. I just cleaned the combustion fan a few weeks ago when I put the new gaskets in. I will go through all this again but I don’t think it is the issue. I will update once it is completed.
 
I only ask because your clean might not be my clean. The 25pdvc and its big brother 25pdv are really finicky when it comes the cleanliness. They have a weak venting system. Thats why we plug the holes under the burn plate it forces more air up through the burn plate itself and burns fuel better. If that upper auger is a 1.8 it needs to be a 1.0
 
I only ask because your clean might not be my clean. The 25pdvc and its big brother 25pdv are really finicky when it comes the cleanliness. They have a weak venting system. Thats why we plug the holes under the burn plate it forces more air up through the burn plate itself and burns fuel better. If that upper auger is a 1.8 it needs to be a 1.0
Understood, I’ll see what else I can do to clean it better but I know when I am done it is ash free. I use a hose and get behind the fire box where the ash can get into the combustion fan. Scrap the top and get all of it cleaned up. But I’ll give it another shot.
 
Use one of the wifes brillow pads and plug off the 2 holes and try it.
 
Does the combustion motor look like it has been replaced?
 
Getting down to basics you have a choice of problems fuel and air. either to much fuel or not enough air. I am guessing lack of air so how do you get more air . Your stove and exh is clean so you have no restrictions there. Can you adjust your exh fan speed? turn it up or down and watch the flame . Is there any change? can you hear the fan speed up or slow down?
Fuel- you should be able to control the fuel too try to turn the fuel down but looking at your flame I think you aren't getting enough air. Its generic advice but you have to start someplace.
 
Getting down to basics you have a choice of problems fuel and air. either to much fuel or not enough air. I am guessing lack of air so how do you get more air . Your stove and exh is clean so you have no restrictions there. Can you adjust your exh fan speed? turn it up or down and watch the flame . Is there any change? can you hear the fan speed up or slow down?
Fuel- you should be able to control the fuel too try to turn the fuel down but looking at your flame I think you aren't getting enough air. Its generic advice but you have to start someplace.

on the pdv & pdvc combustion blower speed is adjustable on heat settings 1 & 2. once you raise the heat to 3+ combustion blower is controlled by the programming in the prom. so its going to be play with the pathway for the air to go more through the burn plate with what is in the stove now or replace the fan on combustion blower(as long as the motor is good), to a quad large 9 pettal or whitfield 11 pettal. (I have tried both and the 9 blade worked the best.)
 
It looks like your door gasket may be leaking, and sounds like your combustion blower motors bearings are bad causing it to run slower than needed.
Both these things cause low air in burn pot.
 
Okay,

Stove maniacs! I completely pulled everything apart and in doing so I greased the auger motors. Both of them can lift up and down. The shaft stays stationary but the metal body mass is what is able to move freely. So what is the take on this?
 
Thats normal, the augers are only supported in the back by the bearings. The auger motors are attached by the collar and thier rotational torque keep them resting on the shelves the bolt to the bearings.
 
Thats normal, the augers are only supported in the back by the bearings. The auger motors are attached by the collar and thier rotational torque keep them resting on the shelves the bolt to the bearings.
Rogo, I will be firing up my stove again tomorrow. I added the steel wool to the bottom two holes. Completely cleaned it from top to bottom. Pulled the flue apart cleaned it blew the combustion motor out not a lot of dirty/debris in there at all. So I am still puzzled but we will see what tomorrow brings.
 
Just a thought here but did anyone bring up what mode you are in? I know mine every now and then after tearing it apart to do a major cleaning on my pdv it will sometimes jump modes and flood pellets.
 
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Just a thought here but did anyone bring up what mode you are in? I know mine every now and then after tearing it apart to do a major cleaning on my pdv it will sometimes jump modes and flood pellets.
I will check the mode again. Before talking to Bill awhile ago on the phone I was on A then switched to to D. But good question though. I’ll check it again.
 
Well, first I want to say, I am knocking on wood! But my stove has been fired up for two hours now and is burning hotter than I’ve ever had it since I’ve owned it. So a big thank you to everyone that has chimed in on the feed. I’ve learned a lot the past few days and will continue to do so. Maybe one day I’ll be able to pay it forward. Once again thank you all.
 
Well, first I want to say, I am knocking on wood! But my stove has been fired up for two hours now and is burning hotter than I’ve ever had it since I’ve owned it. So a big thank you to everyone that has chimed in on the feed. I’ve learned a lot the past few days and will continue to do so. Maybe one day I’ll be able to pay it forward. Once again thank you all.
So what what actually did you change to make it burn better for other people to learn from?
 
So what what actually did you change to make it burn better for other people to learn from?
So what what actually did you change to make it burn better for other people to learn from?

Upon completion of the entire stove overhaul.
1. Removed entire exhaust flue replaced Clean out T.
2. Resealed entire flue (tighten all exhaust leaks)
3. Sprayed kerosote into each flue piece.
4. Removed exhaust fan scrubbed down fan and combustion chamber again to ensure no build up was present.
(Fire box mods)
1. Placed steel wool into bottom two holes. Used Rhodes American Grade 1 (medium coarse)
2. Drilled 2 center rows of burn pot plates holes bigger opened them up to 5/16
3. Restricted 4 holes on burn plate on outter edges so a total of eight holes restricted on out edge.
New settings on stove
Heat Range 4
Fan 9
Lower 3 - 5/4/1

The heat update is as follows:
1800 sq ft down stairs farthest corner from stove 68 degrees and by thermostat 75.

Prior to mods heat at farthest corner 50 degrees and by thermostat 64.

So over all air restricted was the biggest issue. I believe the resealing of flue helped as well.

Once again thanks for all the advice and knowledge.
 
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Glad it’s working for ya now!:)