Can we assume you are providing internal probe temperatures? 200 is already below condensation temperatures. Wow.
2020 stoves with single wall pipe?
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Can we assume you are providing internal probe temperatures? 200 is already below condensation temperatures. Wow.
I will bring it to your attention to take a look at Blaze Kings own brochure here and note the flue temps in their own chart. Their brochure...not my words...
... looks like “their” chart is showing flue temps decently below 200F to me.
EDIT:
Did not intend for my words to sound so condescending to you, Highbeam. Certainly not my intent.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
I wonder what an old king model stove like that is worth in rebuild able condition? I like the door.
Marketing is fine and I know what these stoves can do. That’s not the question though.
I understand marketing, what I don’t understand is you know what they can do, but that’s not the question: What you know they can do?? So what can they do...I mean what does yours do?
They tell me below 200 causes condensation, but their marketing has that nearly, if not 75*F below that for most of the 40 some hour burn. To me that is a significant amount to “tell a story about” or to exaggerate/market.
I have no idea or not if the pipe temps can indeed be that low, especially if it’s cause for condensation concern. Makes me wonder why they’d even report temps that low if it were an issue. Don’t get me wrong, that’s great if it’s possible to have pipe temps that low with wood yet maintain higher stove temps. My next question is how low of stove temp does your Princess run at it’s lowest setting that you typically run it for any average length of time?
They absolutely can run that low. But if you do you will get creosote buildup quickly.
I sort of figured that but confirmation is always good. That is running that low and that much creosote.
1. R11 in 2X4 walls/ R 11 in the ceiling. Normal amount of windows.
2. OSA @ 3:00AM =33F
3. ISA=71 It could be lower but we like it hot.
4. 160 F next to the flue pipe. Note The stove top temp varies widely as the cat is producing most of the heat.
5. 27" up from the stove top.
6. Condar mechanical probe type.
I have been burning for almost 50 years. I purchased the house from my father. You can see below my different stoves. I purchased the Ashford stove after much research. What sold me was the low burn rate. The turn-down rate is 3:1. Having a small house , the low number is more important than the high.
The 30.2 is rated at 11,553-27116 BTU/Hr, however I do believe mine is running well below the low BTUs stated. I have run electric space heaters and compared the heating to the stove's lowest attainable output that keeps the cat active. Although the comparison is crude, I believe the stove output to be well below 10,000 BTUs. You can just barely hold on to the front corners of the stove top.
Room size is a very crude way to size a stove but that is what most people want to use as BTU numbers are meaningless to them. A mechanical engineer would calculate needed BTUs to find the needed BTUs and would be spot on.
Temps here are rather mild compared to the rest of the country just dipping below freezing in the morning for a few hours.
Since the stove runs for most of the 24 hours I fill it in the morning when the house is the coolest. At bed time the load is extremely well charred so the stove can be turned down to an extreme low setting. We, and most people, want it a bit cooler at night so in the late afternoon the stove is set to a very low setting. Just before sleeping a quick check to make sure the cat is still active and that the stove is at the lowest possible setting. Each load of wood is a bit different.
Rarely do I fire the stove hard. In the morning I run it at medium fire for ~3 hours to warm the house up, then the stove is turned down somewhat low. It depends on weather conditions how low.
Most of my wood loads are mixed. I don't pay any attention to what goes into each load. The thermostat controls the burn nicely.
If you miss and get the house too hot just crack a window.
It is all about the minimum CLEAN burn rate. If run below this, it will smoke and deposit creosote. This will make your neighbors hate you and create a fire hazard.
I have found turning the stove down to an extremely low setting after it has been burning all day permits operation with flue stack temperatures of slightly below 200 without condensate forming. The catalytic combustion process involves the production of H2O but somehow it all seems to work out. No creosoting.
Load planning or matching the stove output to the heating needs, as in my example above, permits operation of a somewhat oversized stove to function nicely. Burning a lot of pine with its' attendant relatively low heat BTU content, I opted for the Ashford 30.1 to get a 24 hour burn. It has worked out well for me.
Being a full time burner, I get 3 burning seasons out of the cat. In season 4 the minimum low fire is too high and overheats the house. Cats are good for~12,000 hours but the decline is gradual. I have a 17' straight flue. Deduct 1' for each 90. I have found 17' to be optimum by experimentation.
2. OSA @ 3:00AM =33F
3. ISA=71 It could be lower but we like it hot.
4. 160 F next to the flue pipe. Note The stove top temp varies widely as the cat is producing most of the heat.
5. 27" up from the stove top.
6. Condar mechanical probe type.
I have been burning for almost 50 years. I purchased the house from my father. You can see below my different stoves. I purchased the Ashford stove after much research. What sold me was the low burn rate. The turn-down rate is 3:1. Having a small house , the low number is more important than the high.
The 30.2 is rated at 11,553-27116 BTU/Hr, however I do believe mine is running well below the low BTUs stated. I have run electric space heaters and compared the heating to the stove's lowest attainable output that keeps the cat active. Although the comparison is crude, I believe the stove output to be well below 10,000 BTUs. You can just barely hold on to the front corners of the stove top.
Room size is a very crude way to size a stove but that is what most people want to use as BTU numbers are meaningless to them. A mechanical engineer would calculate needed BTUs to find the needed BTUs and would be spot on.
Temps here are rather mild compared to the rest of the country just dipping below freezing in the morning for a few hours.
Since the stove runs for most of the 24 hours I fill it in the morning when the house is the coolest. At bed time the load is extremely well charred so the stove can be turned down to an extreme low setting. We, and most people, want it a bit cooler at night so in the late afternoon the stove is set to a very low setting. Just before sleeping a quick check to make sure the cat is still active and that the stove is at the lowest possible setting. Each load of wood is a bit different.
Rarely do I fire the stove hard. In the morning I run it at medium fire for ~3 hours to warm the house up, then the stove is turned down somewhat low. It depends on weather conditions how low.
Most of my wood loads are mixed. I don't pay any attention to what goes into each load. The thermostat controls the burn nicely.
If you miss and get the house too hot just crack a window.
It is all about the minimum CLEAN burn rate. If run below this, it will smoke and deposit creosote. This will make your neighbors hate you and create a fire hazard.
I have found turning the stove down to an extremely low setting after it has been burning all day permits operation with flue stack temperatures of slightly below 200 without condensate forming. The catalytic combustion process involves the production of H2O but somehow it all seems to work out. No creosoting.
Load planning or matching the stove output to the heating needs, as in my example above, permits operation of a somewhat oversized stove to function nicely. Burning a lot of pine with its' attendant relatively low heat BTU content, I opted for the Ashford 30.1 to get a 24 hour burn. It has worked out well for me.
Being a full time burner, I get 3 burning seasons out of the cat. In season 4 the minimum low fire is too high and overheats the house. Cats are good for~12,000 hours but the decline is gradual. I have a 17' straight flue. Deduct 1' for each 90. I have found 17' to be optimum by experimentation.
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Of all BK models looks like the Boxer 24 has the lowest btu output of all models. That is, capable of putting out the least amount of heat/btu’s. Appears to be able to burn, roughly, 1 to 1.5 lbs per hour per the brochure. That’s pretty low. This ... https://www.blazeking.com/products/wood-stoves/boxer-24/ ... says capable of heating 800-1600 square feet, but this ... https://www.blazeking.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/BK_BX24_Boxer_Broch_2020.pdf ... says 400-1600 ... which is quite a bit smaller and a more than decent size range of space if this is true. Very interesting. Too bad it’s uglier than their already not so great looking stoves. That is, I think the King/Princess models aren’t that bad looking, but among all stoves certainly the least attractive compared to many others. Of course, that is a subjective and individual statement.
Looks like the King 40 has the highest btu output of all models as well as the greatest total range of output. Burning, according to the brochure, about 2 lbs per hour at low burn.
That’s not to say either of these can’t burn lower, but these are the numbers given. One can only assume these are the minimum recommended rates to prevent excessive creosote build up.
Looks like the King 40 has the highest btu output of all models as well as the greatest total range of output. Burning, according to the brochure, about 2 lbs per hour at low burn.
That’s not to say either of these can’t burn lower, but these are the numbers given. One can only assume these are the minimum recommended rates to prevent excessive creosote build up.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
Well below 20%. I don't do the real low burn until very late in the burn. By then the wood is extremely dry. These thermometers are not all that accurate but I did get a new one this year as I figured 7 years was long enough. The stem was getting pretty corroded. Switching back and fourth, they read the same. Both from Condar. By the way, I figure 200F is when the pointer is right in the middle of "200".
Even among other CAT stoves it seems like the thermostat puts these stoves in a league of their own. Same thing with a hand fed coal stove with no stat versus one with a stat. No comparison.
Nealm66
Minister of Fire
No bends. Originally it was 8" but is now shimmed down to 6" with a stainless steel pipe. 9' of it is outside, in the weather. Double walled in the house.
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The OP is asking about installing a different stove. It will most likely work fine on the described chimney system with the short single-wall stovepipe connector.
Thank you Mod, I was glad to bring pages of content to your site that was nonrelated though. I have enjoyed all of it.
I sit here listening to the BK king pinging as it gets ready to take my house to 78.
I sit here listening to the BK king pinging as it gets ready to take my house to 78.
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