2020-21 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[kennyp2339]

Cruising along, last day of holiday vacation and its been crap weather misty snow all day, Loaded the stove last night at 9, didn't touch anything till 12:30 today, gona reload tonight at 9 again then well, let it do its thing I guess, I think I'm going to find a new hobby, this one is getting to slow paced for me.

 

[cnatew]

Hey everyone--first post for me. I got a
Siracco 25, 3 years ago. Use it almost non-stop from Oct/Nov through March. It helps heat our basement well to supplement our gas furnace for our 3Ksqft home. We love the quality heat and its fun as a hobby, too. My wife and I fight over who gets to chop the wood!

There has been one major problem since we first got this and as such, we are still very unhappy with this Siracco that allows tons of smoke to billow in whenever we try to light or load. Our chimney is very tall, 18+ft. The wood is well seasoned and very dry. The catalyst is always disengaged when loading. I always open the stove very slowly. Many times there is enough of a draft to force the issue like when the fire is hot and like a jet going up the flue, but otherwise it is always a race to see if I can get the thing filled and lit before the smoke alarms go off.

Alarms go off about once or twice a week. The kids are trained to get some doors and windows open and to fan the alarms.

It isn't as bad for periods of time, so I assumed I was doing something wrong, would fix it, and then it would repeat. Now I'm just getting angry.

It seems something is getting worse since today I see smoke coming out of the hole where the catalyst rod extends out.

I run hot fires frequently and know the chimney is clean and working enough in general. I'm convinced that either the design is greatly flawed or the original installation was done improperly.

I don't have this problem ever with my large, open FP upstairs at the same time (wind or weather pattern changes).

Ultimately, I can't imagine anyone happy with the Siracco for this reason. I notice a dearth of comments on this stove and wonder if people actually use it successfully like I do, but without the smoke alarms always going off.

Is there a smoke flap that can be installed on this thing?

What am I missing?

Maybe y'all will have some ideas for me.

 

[kennyp2339]

It helps heat our basement well to supplement our gas furnace for our 3Ksqft home

During the times when the stove is not running say early fall or late spring do you ever get a smoke / creosote odor in the basement?
Whats the chances of the existing furnace creating a mechanical induced stack effect due to a leaky return or to small of a return and using basement air to supplement hot air back out into the upstairs living space?

 

[lsucet]

Hey everyone--first post for me. I got a
Siracco 25, 3 years ago. Use it almost non-stop from Oct/Nov through March. It helps heat our basement well to supplement our gas furnace for our 3Ksqft home. We love the quality heat and its fun as a hobby, too. My wife and I fight over who gets to chop the wood!

There has been one major problem since we first got this and as such, we are still very unhappy with this Siracco that allows tons of smoke to billow in whenever we try to light or load. Our chimney is very tall, 18+ft. The wood is well seasoned and very dry. The catalyst is always disengaged when loading. I always open the stove very slowly. Many times there is enough of a draft to force the issue like when the fire is hot and like a jet going up the flue, but otherwise it is always a race to see if I can get the thing filled and lit before the smoke alarms go off.

Alarms go off about once or twice a week. The kids are trained to get some doors and windows open and to fan the alarms.

It isn't as bad for periods of time, so I assumed I was doing something wrong, would fix it, and then it would repeat. Now I'm just getting angry.

It seems something is getting worse since today I see smoke coming out of the hole where the catalyst rod extends out.

I run hot fires frequently and know the chimney is clean and working enough in general. I'm convinced that either the design is greatly flawed or the original installation was done improperly.

I don't have this problem ever with my large, open FP upstairs at the same time (wind or weather pattern changes).

Ultimately, I can't imagine anyone happy with the Siracco for this reason. I notice a dearth of comments on this stove and wonder if people actually use it successfully like I do, but without the smoke alarms always going off.

Is there a smoke flap that can be installed on this thing?

What am I missing?

Maybe y'all will have some ideas for me.

Do you have a liner? Provide more info about your setup and there is plenty of members here that will be able to diag the issue. Heating from a basement can be a challenge if you are experiencing negative pressure.

 

[Nealm66]

I have a question for those that have the king model. What is your average reload cycle? I’ve suggested it to a couple people now and I got to wondering. I’m able to reload at around 12 hours but there’s always plenty left to go further and occasionally I end up at about 15 some longer days at work. My supervisor has about the same long shifts as I do but would be better served with the larger stove. I’m curious if a 24 hour ish reload would be an average

 

[stoveliker]

Hey everyone--first post for me. I got a
Siracco 25, 3 years ago. Use it almost non-stop from Oct/Nov through March. It helps heat our basement well to supplement our gas furnace for our 3Ksqft home. We love the quality heat and its fun as a hobby, too. My wife and I fight over who gets to chop the wood!

There has been one major problem since we first got this and as such, we are still very unhappy with this Siracco that allows tons of smoke to billow in whenever we try to light or load. Our chimney is very tall, 18+ft. The wood is well seasoned and very dry. The catalyst is always disengaged when loading. I always open the stove very slowly. Many times there is enough of a draft to force the issue like when the fire is hot and like a jet going up the flue, but otherwise it is always a race to see if I can get the thing filled and lit before the smoke alarms go off.

Alarms go off about once or twice a week. The kids are trained to get some doors and windows open and to fan the alarms.

It isn't as bad for periods of time, so I assumed I was doing something wrong, would fix it, and then it would repeat. Now I'm just getting angry.

It seems something is getting worse since today I see smoke coming out of the hole where the catalyst rod extends out.

I run hot fires frequently and know the chimney is clean and working enough in general. I'm convinced that either the design is greatly flawed or the original installation was done improperly.

I don't have this problem ever with my large, open FP upstairs at the same time (wind or weather pattern changes).

Ultimately, I can't imagine anyone happy with the Siracco for this reason. I notice a dearth of comments on this stove and wonder if people actually use it successfully like I do, but without the smoke alarms always going off.

Is there a smoke flap that can be installed on this thing?

What am I missing?

Maybe y'all will have some ideas for me.

Can you post a few pics of the set up and describe the chimney better? (Inside, outside, insulated?).

 

[Indianawood]

I have a question for those that have the king model. What is your average reload cycle? I’ve suggested it to a couple people now and I got to wondering. I’m able to reload at around 12 hours but there’s always plenty left to go further and occasionally I end up at about 15 some longer days at work. My supervisor has about the same long shifts as I do but would be better served with the larger stove. I’m curious if a 24 hour ish reload would be an average

Very dependant on sq ft being heated and outside temp. Since I am heating 5000 sq ft i load twice a day in 30s. 3 times 20s and below. I rarely run below the 3 oclock position

 

[Nealm66]

Very dependant on sq ft being heated and outside temp. Since I am heating 5000 sq ft i load twice a day in 30s. 3 times 20s and below. I rarely run below the 3 oclock position

Thank you, I didn’t think about the variables. Wow, I didn’t realize a person could burn these things that fast. That thing must be pumping out some serious heat

 

[Indianawood]

Thank you, I didn’t think about the variables. Wow, I didn’t realize a person could burn these things that fast. That thing must be pumping out some serious heat

It is. Eventually I'll have better wood than green ash. Next year I'll have beech and shagbark hickory. That should help. But sq ft is sq ft snd it takes a lot of heat to maintain even 70 degrees. I usually run at 4 o'clock or 5 o'clock. Rarely 6 oclock

 

[cnatew]

During the times when the stove is not running say early fall or late spring do you ever get a smoke / creosote odor in the basement?
Whats the chances of the existing furnace creating a mechanical induced stack effect due to a leaky return or to small of a return and using basement air to supplement hot air back out into the upstairs living space?

No to the first question. Good question about the furnace shifting air pressure. I'll have to think about that. The term "stack effect" is new to me. Trying to understand "leaky return."

 

[cnatew]

Do you have a liner? Provide more info about your setup and there is plenty of members here that will be able to diag the issue. Heating from a basement can be a challenge if you are experiencing negative pressure.

No liner that I know of. It was installed by the dealer crew. It has a cap installed up top.
It is a daylight basement with a side that opens up on the hillside.. It has a massive cynderblock stack in basement and bricks upstairs with 3 big fireplaces total (2 upstairs).
Before the insert, the fireplace worked fine, didn't experience this problem.

 

[Nealm66]

Both of the people I recommended the king to burn fir. One is a 2 story log home not sure the other, he just moved in and it’s his first wood stove. It’s an Avalon 945 or 990 and he’s struggling with burn time with our schedule. I was a little worried a 15-20 hour reload schedule would kinda suck and was a guess comparing to my 12 which is pretty sweet. Although I could go longer for sure. Now after hearing your response, it could vary greatly for both. Oh well, thanks again, that kinda answered my curiosity lol

 

[cnatew]

Can you post a few pics of the set up and describe the chimney better? (Inside, outside, insulated?).

See my previous additions to comments, but it goes up middle (inside) of home. Not insulated that I know of. Here is a picture attached. Also of FP upstairs with our Yule log .

 

[Hoytman]

Not that anyone's likely to run a wire to the top of their flue for this, but if you put a temperature probe at the top of the flue and used that to kick on the heat reclaimer fan at 275 you should see little to no additional creosote issues even up high.

As soon as I get time to research a 4-6 or maybe 8 channel data logger I plan to do exactly this, along with some other tests. Just as soon as I can find out more info on the data loggers and where to buy the long k type thermocouples. I imagine 4-6 channels will be enough. Have the money for it, just need to do the research then the tests.

 

[cnatew]

Can you post a few pics of the set up and describe the chimney better? (Inside, outside, insulated?).

Whats the chances of the existing furnace creating a mechanical induced stack effect due to a leaky return or to small of a return and using basement air to supplement hot air back out into the upstairs living space?

So the image may be hard to read, but it shows diagram of air flow in home. I turned off furnace, opened doors, blocked air intake for furnace, closed staircase door--and in several combinations ... even with hot fire, smoke splits and significant portion enters the home. It's royally lame. I was hoping I'd have a quick solution to close the door to the staircase but nope.

 

[cnatew]

Heating from a basement can be a challenge if you are experiencing negative pressure.

Are basements different somehow?

 

[kennyp2339]

The term "stack effect" is new to me. Trying to understand "leaky return."

Stack effect has to do with the house pressures in relation to the chimney exhaust, some homes have a lower pressure that develops due to a local temp inversion or from appliances / air sealing which then want to steal air from another source, when its static usually the first make up air source is a chimney with a reverse draft, when a stove or insert is being used typically cold starts create a smoke issue, then the temps in the flue warm up enough and the flow of draft gets going in the correct direction, this can be mitigated with a make up air source into the main living space.
When I was saying leaky return, I'm suggesting that perhaps some sheet metal has not been correctly screwed to the furnace on the cold air return side, or a hole cut into the return in the furnace room for something (maybe the upstairs return at one point had a whistle or was to loud, so another hvac company hacked the return to fix the service call problem, but not the real issue)
Now to the BK stove specifically - needs to have an insulated liner in the chimney, this is due to much lower flue temps due to high efficiency, so if a normal insert was letting 750 deg flue gas exhaust on average, the BK is more like 400deg, you can literally put your hand over it on some settings, the insulated liner keeps those gases from cooling further with provides for a more stable draft, it wont fix your cold starts, but it will help with reloads.
Check the cap for debris blockage, grab some bino's and look, even a little bit of debris can cause and issue, before reloading the stove, open the t-stat fully & by-pass for 5 min, then crack open the door, see how if that helps with cutting the smoke roll out.

 

[Indianawood]

As soon as I get time to research a 4-6 or maybe 8 channel data logger I plan to do exactly this, along with some other tests. Just as soon as I can find out more info on the data loggers and where to buy the long k type thermocouples. I imagine 4-6 channels will be enough. Have the money for it, just need to do the research then the tests.

Here is my k type reader. Amazon for $34
Cat temp
Flue temp before magic heat
Flue temp after magic heat
Air temp coming out of magic heat

 

[Rickb]

Are basements different somehow?

So this only a problem when the stove is cold or even when the stove is hot?

 

[Hoytman]

Here is my k type reader. Amazon for $34
Cat temp
Flue temp before magic heat
Flue temp after magic heat
Air temp coming out of magic heat

Thanks! I appreciate that. I made need two more channels as I plan to do something similar, but I also want to monitor at least the temperature up at the top of the chimney remotely as well and maybe even cfm/velocity. The unit you shown will be cheap and perfect for everyday sort of use having less wires all over. I think for my initial testing something with more channels and at least one way to check remote temp will be handy. That unit is cheap enough to have it for an extra unit...just in case. Of course, I’ll be able to use it for another unit in the out building.

I have a Dwyer Mark II model 25 Mano hooked up permanently right now for my wood/coal burner. I think I’d like to also have a handheld digital model as well that I can use just for checking the other unit in the out building (shhhh...code word for 3 car garage).

Not to mention I will have these handheld units for when a local fellow burner, like log farmer, might want to check their set-ups out. It will provide a good reason to meet forum members local to me. He’s about 6 miles from me I think.

Not sure if it possible to do cheaply, but having these instruments readable from iPhone would be a plus. Something that can also graph over time.

 

[Hoytman]

Just edited my post. I certainly like your unit. Going to research today and maybe order in a day or three.

 

[Indianawood]

Thanks! I appreciate that. I made need two more channels as I plan to do something similar, but I also want to monitor at least the temperature up at the top of the chimney remotely as well and maybe even cfm/velocity. The unit you shown will be cheap and perfect for everyday sort of use having less wires all over. I think for my initial testing something with more channels and at least one way to check remote temp will be handy. That unit is cheap enough to have it for an extra unit...just in case. Of course, I’ll be able to use it for another unit in the out building.

I have a Dwyer Mark II model 25 Mano hooked up permanently right now for my wood/coal burner. I think I’d like to also have a handheld digital model as well that I can use just for checking the other unit in the out building (shhhh...code word for 3 car garage).

Not to mention I will have these handheld units for when a local fellow burner, like log farmer, might want to check their set-ups out. It will provide a good reason to meet forum members local to me. He’s about 6 miles from me I think.

Perfect. This unit was plenty for me and MUCH better than the nearly useless probe type gauges.
Real temps in real time. Just an FYI. These cheap Chinese Amazon units can override the auto off function by holding the on/off button and hold button when turning on. I have another king in one of those "out building" myself.
Log farmer seems like a good dude, hope he ends up in the BK club

 

[Hoytman]

Yeah, having not ever used a BK it’s hard for me to suggest a unit, but my fear would be a “King “ sized stove being too big. I mean that in the sense to ever enjoy looking at a burning fire if that’s something that is important to him and his family. He’ll work that out though I’m sure. Heat wise, and running low wouldn’t be a problem for the stove I don’t think, but his chimney configuration concerns me a little. He has a good handle on it though. I’m confident that with his research and help from folks like you and others that he can be satisfied. My only real concern would be what I’ve seen from about 7 years of researching, that being the odd and rare person with creosote issues from that stove/odd chimney configuration that some have had. I don’t recall the mc of the wood those folks were burning now though. That may have caused the issue, but I can’t be sure of that. If he gets his chimney “lined” out (sorry for the pun ) I wouldn’t have a concern at all. What I discovered was with folks trying to use that stove with strange chimney configurations and shapes.

That’s the strange thing about stoves/chimney’s. You just never know when one will throw a wrench into the mix. They are all different. Folks here and at BK could likely help him work through all of that. I know this...don’t care if it’s wood or a wood/coal stove like mine; a thermostat on a stove is the icing on the cake. Even the old Earth Stoves are convenient today for what they are and the time they were designed.

I came a hair from dropping cash on a Harmon wood stove. Through a few years of hard research I discovered an issue, that while rare, concerned me and I backed out. Good thing I did. Harmon is no longer building wood stoves now, confirmed by my friend whose wife is a dealer. Only sell pellet stoves now and they think their stove parts are like gold. Great stoves when they are well, hell when they are not well.

 

[Indianawood]

Yeah, having not ever used a BK it’s hard for me to suggest a unit, but my fear would be a “King “ sized stove being too big. I mean that in the sense to ever enjoy looking at a burning fire if that’s something that is important to him and his family. He’ll work that out though I’m sure. Heat wise, and running low wouldn’t be a problem for the stove I don’t think, but his chimney configuration concerns me a little. He has a good handle on it though. I’m confident that with his research and help from folks like you and others that he can be satisfied. My only real concern would be what I’ve seen from about 7 years of researching, that being the odd and rare person with creosote issues from that stove/odd chimney configuration that some have had. I don’t recall the mc of the wood those folks were burning now though. That may have caused the issue, but I can’t be sure of that. If he gets his chimney “lined” out (sorry for the pun ) I wouldn’t have a concern at all. What I discovered was with folks trying to use that stove with strange chimney configurations and shapes.

That’s the strange thing about stoves/chimney’s. You just never know when one will throw a wrench into the mix. They are all different. Folks here and at BK could likely help him work through all of that. I know this...don’t care if it’s wood or a wood/coal stove like mine; a thermostat on a stove is the icing on the cake. Even the old Earth Stoves are convenient today for what they are and the time they were designed.

I came a hair from dropping cash on a Harmon wood stove. Through a few years of hard research I discovered an issue, that while rare, concerned me and I backed out. Good thing I did. Harmon is no longer building wood stoves now, confirmed by my friend whose wife is a dealer. Only sell pellet stoves now and they think their stove parts are like gold. Great stoves when they are well, hell when they are not well.

I agree. The thermostat is a huge plus. I read here on other threads people "babysitting" their stoves for this reason or that reason. I can't imagine that is enjoyable. I load, set thermostat, walk away.

 

[Hoytman]

Anytime you can do that it is a plus.