2020-21 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[Yukonerci]

View attachment 262784
I used to use a product like this for my Chinook 30. You can try searching for "dryer cleaning brush"

Not a bad idea at all...!

 

[becasunshine]

Hi, Y'all!

Long time gone! Everything is fine. Back with a basic question or two.

This winter's forecast includes cold and snowy weather. We are getting ready.

Chimney and stove pipe have been cleaned, we've vacuumed behind the CAT, and I've ordered a new catalytic thermometer for the top. Hubs has gone over the Princess's exterior with fine steel wool and we're going to dust it with a light coat of black matte stove paint.

SO, we've been OK enough so far with the basic Princess. We've had a couple of brutally cold winters since we've been here, so we know what that's like (with winter winds right off of the water.)

We're thinking about adding an after market convection deck and after market blowers, all Blaze King parts of course. Are they easy enough for us to install ourselves? Worth it?

Edited to add: The stove was professionally installed to code with an approved close clearance installation using a factory installed Blaze King heat shield on the back of the stove, which is still in place.

We have a spare CAT and CAT gasket on hand. Stove was installed in spring 2014, used part time (weekends) from 2014/15 winter through 2015/2016 winter, then full time from 2016/17 winter until present. We've burned for 2 years part time and 4 years full time on the original CAT. CAT appears to fire off as expected, stove burns plenty hot. We burn dry hardwood- our wood sits on our wood pile for at least a year and a half after it is delivered to us, cut and split. We buy wood in the spring and use it not the following winter, but the winter after that. Typically it is somewhat seasoned when we acquire it, although we did get some freshly felled wood last spring. We won't burn that wood this winter.

We do have a moisture meter and we use it.

Should we be thinking about pulling the CAT for any reason, or just rock on with what we have? Again, not seeing a problem, and we got precious little out of the chimney and the stove pipe with a drill and the Soot Eater (next to nothing, like maaaaybe a scant half cup of ash) so it seems to be burning clean enough.

Since we are really working on the stove right now, this would be a good year to look at everything, keeping in mind that we aren't looking to do stuff that's not really necessary.

Thank you all in advance for your help!

 

[Kwehme09]

Hi All,

Haven't fired up yet, but am starting to do my pre-season Maintenance. Just got a new catalyst, and want to replace my flame shield as well. Part S.Z2430. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Any have a suggestion?

Thanks.

 

[Highbeam]

Hi All,

Haven't fired up yet, but am starting to do my pre-season Maintenance. Just got a new catalyst, and want to replace my flame shield as well. Part S.Z2430. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Any have a suggestion?

Thanks.

What actually happened to your flame shield? Many folks have flattened it back out after it bows. Mine has stayed perfectly flat.

 

[MikeK]

.............Even after sweeping it I still lift the black pipe off of the stove to vacuum all the debris that falls into the cat chamber and to lube the bypass mechanism so it slides like buttah.

What does everyone use or recommend for high temp anti-seize lubricant for the bypass?

 

[Highbeam]

What does everyone use or recommend for high temp anti-seize lubricant for the bypass?

 

[Sailrmike]

What does everyone use or recommend for high temp anti-seize lubricant for the bypass?

 

[Poindexter]

Jeez, Septmeber fifth is the latest I have ever lit the stove - and I didn't really _need_ to. What I had to do was take pictures of the cat before and after cleaning, and pictures of sweeping out the pipe, and the active cat during a burn for my annual waiver application that allows me to continue to operate the stove during stage I air quality alerts.

So I had my camera by the stove anyway taking pictures for the waiver application. Didn't need this one for that purpose, but grabbed it as it was happening.

 

[Poindexter]

Should we be thinking about pulling the CAT for any reason, or just rock on with what we have? Again, not seeing a problem, and we got precious little out of the chimney and the stove pipe with a drill and the Soot Eater (next to nothing, like maaaaybe a scant half cup of ash) so it seems to be burning clean enough.

I would rock on with what you have already installed. Fabulous that you have a spare cat and a spare gasket on site. My local BK dealer prefers to use blue masking tape for holding the new gasket on the new cat when sliding it up in the housing. I used regular brown masking tape once and both guys on the counter that day rolled their eyes to the side.

Not looking to start a masking tape debate. The one time I used brown the newly installed cat had a normal length service life. I don't personally think it matters, but the local dealer is supporting quite a few stoves, has been for decades and probably has many stories they could tell.

The first indicator to me of cat degradation is the heat I am accustomed to have coming off the stove is not present with the throttle at whatever position.

Changing the combustor the first time is, well, unfamiliar I guess. The third time went pretty quick for me. I am pretty sure there was a youtube or three that I watched.

Remember the combustor always needs to be installed with new gasket material. If you only have enough gasket to install one combustor one time, as prudent and prepared as you are trying to be, it might not be crazy to have two replacement gaskets on hand for the first time you change the combustor. If you get it right the first time when you buy your next combustor you will already have the gasket in storage.

EDIT: I have zero Princess experience so I am leaving the question about how hard it might be to install a fan kit on a pricness for someone who knows.

 

[BKVP]

It's actually easy to clean behind the side baffles. Go to a welding shop or search online for a flexible shaft wire welding brush. I got my years ago at Oxarc. They look like a baby bottle brush.

As to "design flaw", the safety test labs won't permit removable baffles...lest you forget to reinstall prior to use. We've tried....

 

[Highbeam]

Aren’t the bricks removable as well as the ceiling baffles of noncats?

 

[kennyp2339]

Hi, Y'all!

Long time gone! Everything is fine. Back with a basic question or two.

We're thinking about adding an after market convection deck and after market blowers, all Blaze King parts of course. Are they easy enough for us to install ourselves? Worth it?

I bought the aftermarket convection deck and blower kit for my princess, absolutely love it, the convection deck fits perfectly over the flue collar and guides the air coming off the backside right over the top of the stove, it does make a difference, I just keep the blower on low once the temps drop into the mid 20's and have no issues.
As far as the cat questions, you got some hours on you original, start the season off on the old one, let it do its thing, its pretty simple to pop the old one off and slide the new one in mid season, save it for when you clean the stove ash out, takes about a minute to do with a paint scraper to make a purchase point on the old cat flange.

 

[Diabel]

Jeez, Septmeber fifth is the latest I have ever lit the stove - and I didn't really _need_ to. What I had to do was take pictures of the cat before and after cleaning, and pictures of sweeping out the pipe, and the active cat during a burn for my annual waiver application that allows me to continue to operate the stove during stage I air quality alerts.

So I had my camera by the stove anyway taking pictures for the waiver application. Didn't need this one for that purpose, but grabbed it as it was happening.

View attachment 262880

Beautiful. I cant wait to light my stoves. The VC will likely get the green light first. Few evening fires here and there using predominantly hemlock

 

[BKVP]

Aren’t the bricks removable as well as the ceiling baffles of noncats?

Our baffles are side clearance reduction tools. I can't speak to ceiling reductions if baffles are removed or hearth temps without bricks.

 

[kennyp2339]

Anyone out in the Rockies burning yet? I see snow and very unseasonable temps on the weather channel, got me thinking there must be a few people getting there burn on.

 

[MNWade]

Hello all. Long time reader, 1st time poster. Life long woodburner. Retired our Lopi after 15 years. 1st burn last night in a brand new Princess 32. . Installed in basement with 20-24' total chimney. (2 45 elbow offsets into telescoping double wall interior into triple wall stainless up through middle of home. ) Started with a smallish load with paper, kindling on top for a top down start. Great draft, easy start up with beautiful flames. about 15 minutes or so the temp gauge was a ways into the active range, so i closed the bypass and left on high for a few more minutes. The cat glowed immediately, seemed to be working just like the movies. I then turned it to about half and the flames slowed to a beautiful half flicker, with good coals etc.. My question is that it pegged the temp gauge past the white range and it stayed there the rest of the load. The needle was almost straight down the whole time. I turned the thermo down a bit more, no flame but glowing coals and it continued for a few hours. When i went to bed, there was coals and one chunk left glowing, good heat, and the heat gauge just coming back into the top range marker. Fire was never out of control. Looked amazing and the length of fire from the small load was also amazing. Just curious if the gauge is supposed to be that far around the whole time. When i looked at it this morning, all cooled off, the thermo was at the zero line like it is supposed to be.

 

[MissMac]

View attachment 262878

does that have petroleum product in it? just curious

 

[BKVP]

Hello all. Long time reader, 1st time poster. Life long woodburner. Retired our Lopi after 15 years. 1st burn last night in a brand new Princess 32. . Installed in basement with 20-24' total chimney. (2 45 elbow offsets into telescoping double wall interior into triple wall stainless up through middle of home. ) Started with a smallish load with paper, kindling on top for a top down start. Great draft, easy start up with beautiful flames. about 15 minutes or so the temp gauge was a ways into the active range, so i closed the bypass and left on high for a few more minutes. The cat glowed immediately, seemed to be working just like the movies. I then turned it to about half and the flames slowed to a beautiful half flicker, with good coals etc.. My question is that it pegged the temp gauge past the white range and it stayed there the rest of the load. The needle was almost straight down the whole time. I turned the thermo down a bit more, no flame but glowing coals and it continued for a few hours. When i went to bed, there was coals and one chunk left glowing, good heat, and the heat gauge just coming back into the top range marker. Fire was never out of control. Looked amazing and the length of fire from the small load was also amazing. Just curious if the gauge is supposed to be that far around the whole time. When i looked at it this morning, all cooled off, the thermo was at the zero line like it is supposed to be.

Hello all. Long time reader, 1st time poster. Life long woodburner. Retired our Lopi after 15 years. 1st burn last night in a brand new Princess 32. . Installed in basement with 20-24' total chimney. (2 45 elbow offsets into telescoping double wall interior into triple wall stainless up through middle of home. ) Started with a smallish load with paper, kindling on top for a top down start. Great draft, easy start up with beautiful flames. about 15 minutes or so the temp gauge was a ways into the active range, so i closed the bypass and left on high for a few more minutes. The cat glowed immediately, seemed to be working just like the movies. I then turned it to about half and the flames slowed to a beautiful half flicker, with good coals etc.. My question is that it pegged the temp gauge past the white range and it stayed there the rest of the load. The needle was almost straight down the whole time. I turned the thermo down a bit more, no flame but glowing coals and it continued for a few hours. When i went to bed, there was coals and one chunk left glowing, good heat, and the heat gauge just coming back into the top range marker. Fire was never out of control. Looked amazing and the length of fire from the small load was also amazing. Just curious if the gauge is supposed to be that far around the whole time. When i looked at it this morning, all cooled off, the thermo was at the zero line like it is supposed to be.

Cats are very hyper active when new. Give is 30 days and the cat will claim down and all will settle in. Keep the door seal nice and snug, per the manual and all will be good. Stay warm!

 

[MissMac]

can i use this stuff on the bypass lever? might be a silly question, but this is not in my wheelhouse of knowledge. clearly worried that it has petroleum-based product in it.

 

[Highbeam]

does that have petroleum product in it? just curious

I’m sure it does. 99% anyway. The reason I’m not concerned is that this stuff is downstream of the cat. I’m less worried about petroleum and more about the metals. I put a lot of chainsaw bar oil into the firewood too.

 

[MissMac]

I’m sure it does. 99% anyway. The reason I’m not concerned is that this stuff is downstream of the cat. I’m less worried about petroleum and more about the metals. I put a lot of chainsaw bar oil into the firewood too.

okay, thanks highbeam. where exactly do you put the lubricant on the bypass hinge?

 

[Sailrmike]

Hello all. Long time reader, 1st time poster. Life long woodburner. Retired our Lopi after 15 years. 1st burn last night in a brand new Princess 32. . Installed in basement with 20-24' total chimney. (2 45 elbow offsets into telescoping double wall interior into triple wall stainless up through middle of home. ) Started with a smallish load with paper, kindling on top for a top down start. Great draft, easy start up with beautiful flames. about 15 minutes or so the temp gauge was a ways into the active range, so i closed the bypass and left on high for a few more minutes. The cat glowed immediately, seemed to be working just like the movies. I then turned it to about half and the flames slowed to a beautiful half flicker, with good coals etc.. My question is that it pegged the temp gauge past the white range and it stayed there the rest of the load. The needle was almost straight down the whole time. I turned the thermo down a bit more, no flame but glowing coals and it continued for a few hours. When i went to bed, there was coals and one chunk left glowing, good heat, and the heat gauge just coming back into the top range marker. Fire was never out of control. Looked amazing and the length of fire from the small load was also amazing. Just curious if the gauge is supposed to be that far around the whole time. When i looked at it this morning, all cooled off, the thermo was at the zero line like it is supposed to be.

I would be concerned myself. If I'm recalling correctly, 1,600°F is the temperature at which the coating will peel off the cat. I thought that the 'too hot' area of the cat probe thermometer was to be avoided for this reason. @BKVP please clarify. Is it ok for the cat temp probe to be pegged like that every so often, just not for very long periods of time?

 

[MTASH]

Anyone out in the Rockies burning yet? I see snow and very unseasonable temps on the weather channel, got me thinking there must be a few people getting there burn on.

Yep, lit the first fire for the season on Labor Day. We had snow and a low of 27 degrees/high of 36 degrees. I think this is the earliest I've lit a fire...it was 82 on Sunday afternoon.

 

[lsucet]

I would be concerned myself. If I'm recalling correctly, 1,600°F is the temperature at which the coating will peel off the cat. I thought that the 'too hot' area of the cat probe thermometer was to be avoided for this reason. @BKVP please clarify. Is it ok for the cat temp probe to be pegged like that every so often, just not for very long periods of time?

I pegged mine all the time and more if you burn hot at the beginning. Anyway sometimes I get up in the middle of the night and for curiosity I take a look and sometimes the cat probe from condar with numbers, has been touching/into the black area that is more than 1600 dg. The stove being in my low settings around 2 o'clock. I can't see how we can have control over that.

 

[Highbeam]

okay, thanks highbeam. where exactly do you put the lubricant on the bypass hinge?

I lube up the sliding surface. The ramp and rod with a schmear. It’s tough with huge hands reaching down from above but try to hit all contact surfaces between the rod and the loop.

I don’t know if this maintenance is critical. Surely most owners do not do it. I find it to be very much worth the effort.

It’s okay for the cat meter to wind up above the top of the hot range. New cats are extra reactive. The real reason that the cat meter is there is so that you know when to engage the cat and do that you don’t stall it. That active/inactive line is the key.

There’s also a reason that the gauge has no numbers on it. Keeps people from obsessing.