I agree with @Highbeam . With the combustor I am burning less wood. The replacement combustor is less expensive than all that extra wood to keep my house the same temperature would have cost in $, plus I didn't have to split it or stack or carry it in to the house. I am saving about two cords per year that I don't have to burn, still burning about 8 cords annually.
I replace mine when the performance has tailed off noticeably, having to load the stove more often or running higher than usual throttle settings, house seems cold for how much I am using, that sort of thing. First step is to shut it down, let it cool, remove the flame shield, brush off ash accumulation if there is any, put it back together, fire it back up and then if performance isn't restored order a replacement cat. And a gasket.
I don't know that I have ever had a cat fail, they just start failing to meet my expectations up around 15-20 cords and get replaced.
More or less yes, because the gasket turns to a flakey paper and falls apart when you pull the combustor out. But when you say cleaning are you talking about removing fly ash or soaking in the boiling vinegar solution?Don't you need to replace the gasket every single time you pull the cat out (not just replacing the cat. cleaning, etc.)? Just verifying.
Don't you need to replace the gasket every single time you pull the cat out (not just replacing the cat. cleaning, etc.)? Just verifying.
I guess I have to re-learn my princess! I've been experiencing smoke roll out on reloads for the last 3 years I owned this stove. I knew it was likely related to needing an extra length of chimney. Finally got around to putting one on this year. What a difference. Added another 3 feet. No more smoke roll out at all. The interesting thing is up to now I could only turn my stove to 2 before the cat would stall. I can now turn it down to 1 and it cruises right along. Doesn't seem to have lengthened the burn time but the settings to get the same burn times are different.
I follow most of the steps mentioned here. I do have a bit of an issue with the 30min char. After about 10-15min with bypass closed my cat probe will read around 4pm. My flue probe will read around 600 and i have a raging inferno in the box. I also start smelling those new baking paint smells. Plus, i am burning 3yr old basswood and hemlock. I have a feeling if i let it go for another 15min i might have a super clean firebox (free of creo) and only 1/2 load of fuel left.
I had around 19' before but there are 2 45s in the double wall. I need to put a brace on probably. I'm at 6' above the roof now.What was the old and new length? Did you have to stick on a brace?
Hallelujah Rwhite! Good Job!I guess I have to re-learn my princess! I've been experiencing smoke roll out on reloads for the last 3 years I owned this stove. I knew it was likely related to needing an extra length of chimney. Finally got around to putting one on this year. What a difference. Added another 3 feet. No more smoke roll out at all. The interesting thing is up to now I could only turn my stove to 2 before the cat would stall. I can now turn it down to 1 and it cruises right along. Doesn't seem to have lengthened the burn time but the settings to get the same burn times are different.
I am comfortable "cleaning" my combustor with a soft bristled paint brush, or the brushy attachment on my wife's vaccuum cleaner. Neither of these techniques require removing the combustor from the stove, and neither require a new gasket. If you pull the combustor out of the stove, you need a new gasket for putting it back in.Don't you need to replace the gasket every single time you pull the cat out (not just replacing the cat. cleaning, etc.)? Just verifying.
I am comfortable "cleaning" my combustor with a soft bristled paint brush, or the brushy attachment on my wife's vaccuum cleaner. Neither of these techniques require removing the combustor from the stove, and neither require a new gasket. If you pull the combustor out of the stove, you need a new gasket for putting it back in.
I personally have never yet fooled around with boiling vinegar. Some folks have and have report being happy with it, I just don't have that kind of free time. It is economical for me to just replace the combustor if brushing and vacuuming are not enough to restore performance.
If I had more free time than money I likely try boiling vinegar and a new gasket. Since I have more money than time, I haven't. If I could "buy time" I would spend more time with my kids and not fool with boiling vinegar.
M2c
I recently acquired a used princess and now a king and just noticed this difference, looked in manual and couldn't find info on this. Question answered, gotta love this place!They’re welded in. Extraordinary measures are required to remove the significant amount of junk that falls back there. It can be done on my princess but unlike the king, there’s no rear internal shield so that’s good.
I trust one of you will have some experience. The manual, though helpful, is not specific about this particular "troubleshoot". And writing this reminds me that something like this led me to stop using my stove early last year and wait for the chimney sweep. I ended up taking the combustor out at that time (February), wrecking the gasket of course and needing more help to order a new one and reinstall it. Apparently, the combustor was ok then but I don't understand what I am doing wrong that it is choking again so soon.
So I'm happy with the steel combustor and now I have my old ceramic as a backup. I didn't see any visible damage, but there was some fly ash in some of the cells. I'll try the vinegar cleaning trick and see if I can get a couple more years out of it when the steel combustor reaches end-of-life. Has anyone tried the vinegar wash with room-temperature liquid, instead of near-boiling? It would be nice to just use a 5-gallon bucket instead of junking a cooking pot. I'm patient enough to let it sit in the acid for a couple weeks. Does the high temperature of the boiling method do anything besides speeding up the reaction?
hello kind Hearth friends,
Another season is here and my woodstove -- faithful friend of four years -- is giving me heebie-jeebies! ...
A week or so ago, I loaded the stove as usual for a first burn, noticing a larger-than-usual spill of smoke as I added wood after the kindling phase was well established; waited for the needle to indicate "Active," engaged the cat as usual, anticipating the start of the lovely long woodstove season (my stove goes day and night from October until March -- or even April -- this year) and immediately noticed smoke seeping from around the collar. I took the cat off and turned the thermostat to zero and let the fire go out, praying all the while ... Called the chimney sweep -- he's booked until December. ... What to do?
Yesterday, a neighbour came with his chimney brush as I could only imagine my chimney was blocked or possibly filthy -- though the stove and chimney were professionally cleaned this February (I usually have it cleaned once a year which has been fine until this past year) -- as last year's burning season went long and I had been burning unusually pitchy wood. But this morning I learned that my neighbour's chimney scrub hadn't changed a thing. .. As soon as the cat was engaged, there was smoke from the collar again.
So, now the stove is cooling and I am worried. Time to turn to Hearth.com!
Does this means the combustor is dead. ... Or just superficially clogged? Of course, I *will* look at it when the fire is dead; meanwhile, my flashlight shows it dark and seemingly superficially clean (LED light doesn't really penetrate). ..
I trust one of you will have some experience. The manual, though helpful, is not specific about this particular "troubleshoot". And writing this reminds me that something like this led me to stop using my stove early last year and wait for the chimney sweep. I ended up taking the combustor out at that time (February), wrecking the gasket of course and needing more help to order a new one and reinstall it. Apparently, the combustor was ok then but I don't understand what I am doing wrong that it is choking again so soon.
Could pitchy wood make this difference?
Excuse the long note, I thought I'd just get the facts on the ground to begin.
good wishes, GreenPacific
I read carefully and you have a freestanding ashford 30 that is smoking from the flue collar when you engage the cat as well as some smoke rollout through the door when you are loading with bypass open but you can get a fire going. Very important, is it possible that smoke was rolling up from some other opening and you just saw it at the flue collar?
Because for 500+ degree flue gasses to not continue to go up the chimney would mean the chimney is blocked. That is not a cat cloggage problem. We know this because the flue collar is downstream of the cat. Your chimney has been blocked with something. Needs to be cleaned thoroughly from cap to stove.
If, when you engage the cat and the door is properly closed as required, smoke started spewing past the door seal then we could have a cat clockage issue.
Pitchy wood is fine. Although western red cedar leaves lots some brown soot that I'm not fond of.
It doesn't hurt a bit to try and clean your cat though. Use a vacuum hose, a soft paint brush, or even a can of compressed air to blast the cells clear. Won't stop smoking from the flue collar though.
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