2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread PART 2 (Everything BK)

[patrickoneal]

If it wouldn't be in the way, I'd actually be tempted to go try to buy the display model just for to have a spare cat, door, blower motor, fire brick etc.

 

[WhitePlatinum]

Drat. That would be quite the score, pricewise. But heck, even though no one commented, there were probably a few that were tracking that place down when WP first mentioned the name. Ya snooze ya lose, strike while the iron is hot and all that jazz. But maybe one shouldn't be handling a hot iron right after he wakes up from a snooze.

My apologies, I got the wrong aqualeisure info off google when I posted. apparently they are a chain. Call Sabina at (757) 420-2222 Reon drive in VA Beach.

 

[WhitePlatinum]

Off the truck, and 4' from it's home New and old

 

[patrickoneal]

Off the truck, and 4' from it's homeView attachment 220457 New and old

I don't remember the cat shield just laying in the bottom of my stove. Your cat is still in place?

 

[jetsam]

That's a kick ass insert. You will like it.

I'd suggest burning a couple fires outside once the rain passes, and checking the bypass gasket before installing. It is not easy to check/adjust the bypsss once the insert is in the fireplace.

 

[jetsam]

In other news, after weeks of much colder than usual temperatures, it's time for much warmer than usual temperatures. My door is blackening as we speak. (Looks like it'll get a cleaning saturday night though... heat wave is over then).

 

[Ashful]

I don't remember the cat shield just laying in the bottom of my stove. Your cat is still in place?

One of mine came like that. They might fall out in shipping.

 

[Poindexter]

One of mine came like that. They might fall out in shipping.

How much did you guys really save with all this DIY stuff?

I am just asking. I try to not deal with heavy things any more. Because I am old and stuff.

I paid $300 to have the experienced foreman and two college kids drag 500# worth of stove from the store to the second floor of my home. Once I paid for the delivery, they did the assembly and setup for free. When they parked in my driveway the stove was still strapped down to a pallet like it left the factory.

Once they had all the pieces in my living room they said it would probably take about an hour to finish putting together. I asked what they liked on their pizzas, called Papa Johns right there in front of them except for the credit card number part and have no regrets.

Accupuncture is $150/ session for me, it doesn't take too many vicodin for me to have to burn a vacation day tomorrow; and my install has been trouble free from day one.

 

[Ashful]

How much did you guys really save with all this DIY stuff?

I am just asking. I try to not deal with heavy things any more. Because I am old and stuff.

I paid $300 to have the experienced foreman and two college kids drag 500# worth of stove from the store to the second floor of my home. Once I paid for the delivery, they did the assembly and setup for free. When they parked in my driveway the stove was still strapped down to a pallet like it left the factory.

Once they had all the pieces in my living room they said it would probably take about an hour to finish putting together. I asked what they liked on their pizzas, called Papa Johns right there in front of them except for the credit card number part and have no regrets.

Accupuncture is $150/ session for me, it doesn't take too many vicodin for me to have to burn a vacation day tomorrow; and my install has been trouble free from day one.

I DIY'd all of my Jotul moves, because they were used stoves. Not a big deal, stoves aren't heavy, when you use levers, cribbing, and dollies, rather than your muscles.

But when I bought the two BK Ashford 30.1's, I paid $200 to have them both set right on my hearth. It wasn't an issue of effort, but it was an issue of time, which I didn't have at that moment. My only DIY there was hooking up the stovepipe.

 

[WhitePlatinum]

I don't remember the cat shield just laying in the bottom of my stove. Your cat is still in place?

Yes the flame guard was down in the firebox but the cat is still in place. The literature from BK did mention this may happen so I will have to put that in place. I got a hand from my father in law (70) and neighbor (55) bad back. It really was a breeze with my worx wheelbarrow/cart. Now I am going to use some old HD casters that I had laying around and put them on the packing skid to get that old timberline beast removed.

 

[Tar12]

Yes the flame guard was down in the firebox but the cat is still in place. The literature from BK did mention this may happen so I will have to put that in place. I got a hand from my father in law (70) and neighbor (55) bad back. It really was a breeze with my worx wheelbarrow/cart. Now I am going to use some old HD casters that I had laying around and put them on the packing skid to get that old timberline beast removed.

That new insert sure looks nice! Cant wait for your thoughts after you have her up and running!

 

[MissMac]

I’m sure a lot of you guys who have years under your belts can answer this one for me.

I’ve found the sweet spot in my stove where i can dial down to without the cat falling inactive. So I mark that as my low setting. Now I was doing some troubleshooting with BK, and one of the things the tech had me do was flick my wrist fast while turning the t-stat down, once the burn was on high, to see what position the flapper falls shut at. He told me that wherever that was, turn it up about 1/8, and that’s my low spot under optimal conditions.

So I’ve done that, and I find that i have 2 different results. My low that i’ve identified with burning etc. Is a bit lower than this flapper test low. Anyone provide me with any insight? I thought that you can turn these stoves down as low as they will go so long as they don’t drop inactive?

Thanks for any suggestions/comments. -40C here again today with the windchill.

 

[shoot-straight]

I’m sure a lot of you guys who have years under your belts can answer this one for me.

I’ve found the sweet spot in my stove where i can dial down to without the cat falling inactive. So I mark that as my low setting. Now I was doing some troubleshooting with BK, and one of the things the tech had me do was flick my wrist fast while turning the t-stat down, once the burn was on high, to see what position the flapper falls shut at. He told me that wherever that was, turn it up about 1/8, and that’s my low spot under optimal conditions.

So I’ve done that, and I find that i have 2 different results. My low that i’ve identified with burning etc. Is a bit lower than this flapper test low. Anyone provide me with any insight? I thought that you can turn these stoves down as low as they will go so long as they don’t drop inactive?

Thanks for any suggestions/comments. -40C here again today with the windchill.

you have to remember what the flapper "click" is. its the sound of the stat plate closing shut. the point at which it shuts varies on the current temp of your stove because the bi-metal coil changes its position as it heats up. on a cold stove i think most close between 2:00 and 3:00 on the dial if you were to look at it as a clock. if your stove was very hot, it might close at 4:00, because thats what it does. it gets to that temp by letting air in, then closes to slow things down when it gets to temp. Thats usually when your box will go dark and there will be no flames. if it cools some, the coil will turn and let some more air in. then you get some flames.

if your stove is stalling at 4:00, you have other issues. what he said doesnt make much sense as i read it. perhaps its my misunderstanding though.

 

[jetsam]

I’m sure a lot of you guys who have years under your belts can answer this one for me.

I’ve found the sweet spot in my stove where i can dial down to without the cat falling inactive. So I mark that as my low setting. Now I was doing some troubleshooting with BK, and one of the things the tech had me do was flick my wrist fast while turning the t-stat down, once the burn was on high, to see what position the flapper falls shut at. He told me that wherever that was, turn it up about 1/8, and that’s my low spot under optimal conditions.

So I’ve done that, and I find that i have 2 different results. My low that i’ve identified with burning etc. Is a bit lower than this flapper test low. Anyone provide me with any insight? I thought that you can turn these stoves down as low as they will go so long as they don’t drop inactive?

Thanks for any suggestions/comments. -40C here again today with the windchill.

Turn it down as low as it will burn without going inactive if you want. You can go even lower if you don't mind taking a big hit in efficiency (I've been known to do this on 60+ degree days).

I disagree that when the stove's at high burn, you can turn the thermostat down until the flapper closes and that's your low burn spot? If I am burning at 100% thermostat and the stove is blazing hot, the flapper shuts at maybe 50% thermostat, which is nowhere near any kind of a low burn.

I wouldn't think that at -40C you'd be worrying about your low range, though! That's springtime talk.

 

[MissMac]

Turn it down as low as it will burn without going inactive if you want. You can go even lower if you don't mind taking a big hit in efficiency (I've been known to do this on 60+ degree days).

I disagree that when the stove's at high burn, you can turn the thermostat down until the flapper closes and that's your low burn spot? If I am burning at 100% thermostat and the stove is blazing hot, the flapper shuts at maybe 50% thermostat, which is nowhere near any kind of a low burn.

I wouldn't think that at -40C you'd be worrying about your low range, though! That's springtime talk.

Yup for sure - Ive got er wide open today! But I was a bit confused too about the wrist flick thing. On a cold stove when i do it, is falls shut around 2o.c. Just like @shoot-straight said. But when i do it with the stove hot, which was what the tech said, it falls shut at 4o.c. And i get why, but i’ve turned my stove to 3 o.c. without it stalling which is why this didn’t make any sense to me.

 

[Ashful]

I’ve found the sweet spot in my stove where i can dial down to without the cat falling inactive. So I mark that as my low setting. Now I was doing some troubleshooting with BK, and one of the things the tech had me do was flick my wrist fast while turning the t-stat down, once the burn was on high, to see what position the flapper falls shut at. He told me that wherever that was, turn it up about 1/8, and that’s my low spot under optimal conditions.

Is it possible you heard him wrong, or he mis-spoke? I’m no BK tech, but I’ve put 30 cords thru two BK’s in the last few years, and this makes no sense to me.

The trick of finding the flapper closed position, in my opinion, would best be done at your lowest useable burn rate or on a cold stove. Knowing where that flapper closes on a high burn rate is really not relevant to anything, as far as I can see it.

The position where that flapper closes on your lowest useable burn rate is your lowest usable setting, as turning it down any farther than that will completely defeat its operation. This will not be the same position as a closed flapper on a high burn rate.

Now, having said all of that, I think I found a better way to skin this cat. I took a piece of tape, drew an arrow on it, and stuck it to my dial close to where I thought a 12 hour burn would be. Over the course of several days, I moved that piece of tape around after each full-load test, until I had it right on the money for a 12-hour burn. Then I marked my swoosh with a little triangle of red electrical tape (arrow) at that location. When warmer weather came, I repeated the same exercise for 24 hours, and marked that with a little triangle of blue electrical tape.

Frankly, I don’t care where the absolute minimum position of my stove dial is. Knowing the positions that give me 12 and 24 hour burns gives me all the info I need to run this stove, and I can eyeball any other burn time off of those two positions.

 

[jetsam]

I feel like there was maybe something that wasn't communicated clearly when you were talking to the tech

If you already know how low you can dial your stove to keep the cat active, you don't need any wrist-flicking tips.

 

[SuperJ]

I think the wrist flick is just a weird description of listening for the click. My cold click is somewhere around 2pm, this translates into a 24hr burn somewhere around 3pm for me. If I run it lower than 3pm it doesn't have enough head room to open and consume all my fuel, which results in a shorter burn. If I run it higher than 3pm I get more heat (which I do depending on the weather).

On another note, I went on my roof to cleanout my eavestroughs today. Stuck my hand in the chimney cap with the stove on low burn. There sure isn't much airflow or heat on low up at the cap. If I had my phone and a screw driver I would've attempted a picture for @Poindexter since I'm one of the people with steamsicles on my chimney when it's really cold.

 

[MissMac]

Is it possible you heard him wrong, or he mis-spoke? I’m no BK tech, but I’ve put 30 cords thru two BK’s in the last few years, and this makes no sense to me.

The trick of finding the flapper closed position, in my opinion, would best be done at your lowest useable burn rate or on a cold stove. Knowing where that flapper closes on a high burn rate is really not relevant to anything, as far as I can see it.

The position where that flapper closes on your lowest useable burn rate is your lowest usable setting, as turning it down any farther than that will completely defeat its operation. This will not be the same position as a closed flapper on a high burn rate.

Now, having said all of that, I think I found a better way to skin this cat. I took a piece of tape, drew an arrow on it, and stuck it to my dial close to where I thought a 12 hour burn would be. Over the course of several days, I moved that piece of tape around after each full-load test, until I had it right on the money for a 12-hour burn. Then I marked my swoosh with a little triangle of red electrical tape (arrow) at that location. When warmer weather came, I repeated the same exercise for 24 hours.

Frankly, I don’t care where the absolute minimum position of my stove dial is. Knowing the positions that give me 12 and 24 hour burns gives me all the info I need to run this stove, and I can eyeball any other burn time off of those two positions.

Ya, i’ve Already done something very similar to what you suggested. I know where my 12 hour burn rate is and have it marked out. And i know i can go down to 3oc without stalling, but it’s been too cold to experiment any further - that will be a job for the spring.

But i clarified with him, cause i was confused too, and he told me that with my stove rocking, flick my wrist to overcome the spring, and where the flapper closes, dial up 1/8 and that’s my lowest spot under ideal burning conditions. I think i’m Gonna stick with what i’m Doing, but i wonder if his spot vs mine and the area in between is part of my smell issue? Although i can get the smell above his spot, so I don’t know. He is sending me some new inch thick gasket material that he’s been trying out for me to install, so i’ll be redoing my door gasket - again. Will let you all know how it goes. If anybody has any more insight about this wrist flick thing, and the significance of the spot where the flapper falls shut i’m all ears.

 

[SuperJ]

I don't think the flick is good for the stat. You don't want to accidentally wreck the calibration on the bi-metallic strip coil which you could do by inertia with rapid flicking. Plus I don't think it tells you anything useful.

 

[jetsam]

The spot identified by that method would be a medium-high burn on my (different) stove- maybe an 8 hour burn with no fans.

I guess the key phrase there is "ideal burning conditions"- maybe the tech is talking about avoiding your smoke smell, not general burning.

 

[jetsam]

Speaking of low burns... it was in the 40s overnight, going up to 60(!) today.

I put in maybe 3/4 of a load of oak 14+ hours ago at bedtime...

Gotta love warm weather! I could go a week on a wheelbarrow full if it would stay like this.

 

[black smoke signals]

Just for those Insert owners this flick (swoosh) does not work on a cold stove Why this is what a t/stat looks like on a cold stove. After the stove warms up then you can flick.

 

[allan5oh]

Missmac my inexperienced opinion is you have to consider you're at -40 AND what 800 feet elevation. That changes the way the stove operates. You should be able to choke it right down when it's cold. You have an outside air intake correct?

I would think for the same thermostat setting when it's cold out the damper will be closed more. First the inlet air has more oxygen due to higher pressure, second the flue pressure drop becomes greater.

I know people up here that have 10' flues without issue up here. Any longer and the damper doesn't hav much effect when it's really cold.

 

[MissMac]

Missmac my inexperienced opinion is you have to consider you're at -40 AND what 800 feet elevation. That changes the way the stove operates. You should be able to choke it right down when it's cold. You have an outside air intake correct?

I would think for the same thermostat setting when it's cold out the damper will be closed more. First the inlet air has more oxygen due to higher pressure, second the flue pressure drop becomes greater.

I know people up here that have 10' flues without issue up here. Any longer and the damper doesn't hav much effect when it's really cold.

Oh ya for sure the stove performs very differently at different temps. I was just trying to digest this piece of insight that the BK tech gave me. I talked to him again today, and still don’t totally get what he was trying to say, because it’s not consistent with how i’ve seen my stove perform. In this weather, she chugs away no problem, and when it’s milder, it still pulls great.

And no, I don’t have an OAK

What stove do you have over in Winnipeg?