2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

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I am a bit concerned about how dry the limb wood is. I have been putting a fair amount of them back on the pile for next year that felt heavy, but most of them sound pretty hollow and seem light enough. My split wood is definitely dry enough after one season here in Eastern Washington. Thankfully I went overboard on getting wood CSS and I doubt I will burn even half the 10 cords I have. Its been mild, but looks like winter is finally coming this week. Looking forward to getting the thing set up and cranked up!

You will find that the smaller branches are perfect for filling in the voids/empty spaces above your larger splits. The more you pack in the better burn times you get. Branches are generally more dense then the trunk. Win Win!

There is a local shop that has tons of scrap 2x4s and I will add them into the firebox on top of the hardwoods.
 
You will find that the smaller branches are perfect for filling in the voids/empty spaces above your larger splits. The more you pack in the better burn times you get. Branches are generally more dense then the trunk. Win Win!

There is a local shop that has tons of scrap 2x4s and I will add them into the firebox on top of the hardwoods.

Awesome dog! and to keep this thread on topic, nice wood pile! :) :) <:3~
 
OK, BLAZE KING PEEPS!

I am here with some really basic, inane, "She's been running this wood stove for a couple of years already, why is she asking these questions?" questions with some comedy in the middle.

True story.

But questions first:

1. This is our first season burning a wood stove full time for heat. (Yes, we have an HVAC system but we have dried wood, which is cheaper than our coop supplied electricity and/or propane for the back up gas furnace.)

How often do you clean your stove if you are burning continuously?

We are at a full week and several days of full time burn here. It gets down to the 30s overnight, up into the 50s or even the low 60s during the day, but as always, wind chill is a factor as well.

The house is well insulated, so letting embers burn down in the floor of the stove is more than sufficient on many days.

So far we've had enough embers at the end of the day to simply add wood, open the bypass if the CAT is not fired up, and open the throttle (thermostat) until the new wood catches. As soon as the indicator shows "CAT range," close the bypass. We soon have a nice burn and we can turn it down to low before bed. The next morning, if the house is chilly, repeat. If not, cruise on coals in the bottom of the stove.

Yesterday I was thinking it was time to clean the stove because we had a couple of inches of ash and embers/coals in the bottom. I raked it out, it burned down some more, and it didn't seem like that much ash in the bottom of the stove. It still had good embers so I decided to hang onto that ember-rich ash for at least another day. Hey, BTUs are BTUs, right? And in this shoulder season, we can get by with adding so few to the house.

So I raked it out, put new splits on top, and I did have to add some newspaper and light the newspaper to get the new splits lit. Once they lit, they caught fire well. The remaining chunks in the ash bed lit up, and the ash bed lit up, and splits lit up, and soon the whole load was burning merrily away. So, at bed time, we turned it down to low and went to bed.

This morning I awoke early because I had to drive into an appointment in town.

CUE COMEDY HERE

Walked out into the living area, took a look at the stove, CAT temp was below active, so I opened the bypass, opened up the thermometer, and gave it a few minutes. Wandered back by a few minutes later, ashes and ember bed were lit up, the remaining pieces from last night's splits were lighting up, needle was pretty close to the active line for the CAT. I fetched a few splits from the porch, slooowly opened the loading door, added the splits, closed the door and latched it. The needle hadn't hit active CAT range yet so I left the bypass open. I left the thermometer opened all the way as well.

I walked to the back of the house to get ready to leave the house. All of the sudden, ALL HECK BROKE LOOSE.

Every fire alarm in the house went off. All at once.

I ran back out to the living area and smelled smoke. The stove was still lit, it was burning. The door was closed and latched. (The gasket is fine.) So where was the smoke coming from?

As best I could determine, it was coming from the stack seams. It was leaking out of the stack and sort of billowing up around the ceiling.

The firebox was lit, but there was a LOT of smoke in it.

????

The smoke alarms were still screaming, and I had to get the smoke out of the house. So I opened up all of the exterior doors and turned on the HVAC fan to move air. Thankfully there was a breeze coming off of the water and it blew the smoke out of the house in short order.

That in progress, I could *not* figure out what was happening or why. The first thought was chimney fire- I guess my brain went there because that's typically the greatest and most immediate fear. Wasn't likely- we cleaned the chimney before we started burning this year, we haven't been burning long enough this year to build anything up in the chimney, we open up the thermostat (plus a couple of doors) and do a "burn off" at least every couple of days because we realize we are burning on low a lot during this shoulder season.

All of the above transpired in a matter of moments, and unable to figure out why smoke was leaking out of the stack, not being able to figure out what was going on, I ran outside into a freezing morning with frost on the grass, barefoot in my flannel nightgown, to take a look at the chimney.

Dark smoke coming out of the chimney, no steam, no sparks, no fire. That was good.

My feet were cold.

Anyway, shortly thereafter, the new splits in the firebox lit up good, the chimney warmed up and started drawing, the smoke cleared from the firebox and stopped leaking out of the stack. Egad.

My guess is that there is/was too much ash in the bottom of the stove and, for lack of a better description, I had more of a smolder than an active fire at first. As soon as the fresh splits lit up enough to warm the chimney, the stove started drawing and everything was fine. The wood is very dry- 11% or below.

I had enough time to open the throttle and burn the stove on high for several minutes before I had to turn it down to leave for my appointment. The stove stabilized well and ran as expected. Everything was fine when I got home.

Tonight will not be so cold, so we are letting the coals burn down overnight. I'll shovel it out tomorrow.

Thoughts?

2. Bypass opens smoothly but I notice that when I move the handle to close the bypass, it feels just a wee bit "sticky" or balky right in the middle of the sweep of the handle, when the handle is pointed straight up. Continuing to move the handle through the sweep, the bypass "clunks" into place like it always has, the CAT engages like it always has. The movement of the handle through "high noon," right before the bypass closes on the latter half of the sweep, just feels a bit "sticky" to me. Maybe it's always been that way and I'm just now noticing it.

Thank you for reading through all of this.

Any cause for concern that you can see from any of the above?
 
My guess is the "fire" was not generating enough heat to keep the external flue drawing. The flow reversed! I would think this is a rare event. If My stove is dead cold I can feel cold air coming out (falling down) of the flue. An outside air kit might reduce the chances of smoking up the house. The joints in flue stacks are not truly air tight. They depend on the existence of a continuous negative draw developed by the rising hot gasses. This works 99.99% of the time as they can not leak smoke out and suck air in at the same time. Try keeping things a little hotter. The flue must be insulated (double walled) from the stove top to the flue cap. In addition to meeting the minimum height, the flue must be the diameter given in the manual all the way up. Any bends must be compensated for. Some flue caps can catch the wind/breeze and cause a reverse flow. Hope this helps.
 
I discovered this last night. Not only do the fans artificially lower the cat meter's reading but they seem steal so much heat from the stove that the draft is affected which can stall the cat. The thermostat tries to compensate for the fans by feeding the fire more combustion air but the draft doesn't quite recover. Seems that the stove is happier making low output without the fans running. Save the fans for when you need high output? At least that is my plan with my minimum spec chimney.

I am wondering if not running the fans would help my smoke smell issue. I haven't been running the wood stove that much because I am heating myself out, and the sweet smoke smell causes something in my brain to go into fight or flight and I can't sleep worrying about the wood stove. It seems like I only smell the wood smoke coming from the top front vents of my Ashford 30 which is usually being pushed out by the fans running. Maybe having them off would increase my draft just enough, or maybe the fans are actually drawing out the smoke from the chimney adapter just a little bit due to the low draft.

I am running the stove at about 1/2 way between low and high with the fans on low and getting about 12 hour burns. A bit more if I want less effective heat. Also debating pulling the chimney off now while the stove has been off and sealing the adapter with some stove cement. Sorry I ramble.
 
I am wondering if not running the fans would help my smoke smell issue. I haven't been running the wood stove that much because I am heating myself out, and the sweet smoke smell causes something in my brain to go into fight or flight and I can't sleep worrying about the wood stove. It seems like I only smell the wood smoke coming from the top front vents of my Ashford 30 which is usually being pushed out by the fans running. Maybe having them off would increase my draft just enough, or maybe the fans are actually drawing out the smoke from the chimney adapter just a little bit due to the low draft.

I am running the stove at about 1/2 way between low and high with the fans on low and getting about 12 hour burns. A bit more if I want less effective heat. Also debating pulling the chimney off now while the stove has been off and sealing the adapter with some stove cement. Sorry I ramble.

No need to seal the adapter with cement. If you don't need extra heat then shut those fans off! They cause more heat to come from the stove which can only "heat you out" that much more.

Give it a try. The fans are totally optional and aren't required. Can only help keep draft strength up which would keep the smoke in the stove if there was a leak.
 
Yeah the main reason I was running them was to because of where my stove is sitting. Right next to the open stairway to the second floor and our bedrooms. It seemed like running the fans even on low would help push the heat away from the stairs a bit and keep me and my 2 year old from roasting upstairs. Anything over 70 degrees and we start sweating. I will give it a try.

Maybe I will turn on the ceiling fan at the top of the stairs and try to slow down the heat from making its way upstairs. Other than that darn smoke smell I am loving the stove.
 
Yeah the main reason I was running them was to because of where my stove is sitting. Right next to the open stairway to the second floor and our bedrooms. It seemed like running the fans even on low would help push the heat away from the stairs a bit and keep me and my 2 year old from roasting upstairs. Anything over 70 degrees and we start sweating. I will give it a try.

Maybe I will turn on the ceiling fan at the top of the stairs and try to slow down the heat from making its way upstairs. Other than that darn smoke smell I am loving the stove.

The less air movement around that stove, the more likely the heat is to stay in the area around it. I would also try closing the bedroom doors. I like a cooler bedroom too.

So I am imagining a cold lower level with the stove and an overheated upstairs?
 
Actually downstairs is very comfortable. Full basement under the house which is log cabin on the bottom (square logs), with a pretty much open floor plan. Then the open stairway is in the middle of the floor plan. Upstairs is Gambrel (sp?) trusses and insulated end walls. So a pretty good setup for insulation and heating I think. Upstairs can run about 10 degrees warmer than downstairs (with the fan on low). I will have to see with the fans off the difference. but if I keep the bedroom doors shut it means the heat should stay in the stairwell and dissipate in downstairs. About 1700 sq ft. total. We then have the old part of the house which is another 500-600 sq ft that gets whatever heat makes it through the doors over to that end of the house. But mostly unheated.
 
My guess is the "fire" was not generating enough heat to keep the external flue drawing. The flow reversed! I would think this is a rare event. If My stove is dead cold I can feel cold air coming out (falling down) of the flue. An outside air kit might reduce the chances of smoking up the house. The joints in flue stacks are not truly air tight. They depend on the existence of a continuous negative draw developed by the rising hot gasses. This works 99.99% of the time as they can not leak smoke out and suck air in at the same time. Try keeping things a little hotter. The flue must be insulated (double walled) from the stove top to the flue cap. In addition to meeting the minimum height, the flue must be the diameter given in the manual all the way up. Any bends must be compensated for. Some flue caps can catch the wind/breeze and cause a reverse flow. Hope this helps.

I think this is *exactly* what happened! You describe it perfectly, as if you were standing here.

Per the original post, the *only* reason my brain went to "Uh oh, chimney fire?" is because 1. We are all so conditioned to fear the chimney fire (as well we should be) and 2. Because it's "shoulder season," we are burning on low more often than not. I am aware and probably a little hyper-vigilant about building up creosote but for pete's sake, I hardly see how we could have built up enough creosote in about a week and a half's worth of burning to cause a chimney fire (although I could be wrong, correct me if I am.) My husband thoroughly cleaned that chimney with a Soot Eater before the season started. We are burning very dry oak, and despite the "shoulder season," I have been opening the throttle and having a good hot burn at least once every couple of days, just to keep everything clean.

The hot burns have been hot enough to completely clean the glass, so I'm guessing they were hot enough to clean the chimney as well.

While it was happening, chimney fire made absolutely NO sense to me. Like you said, it seemed like the opposite- a cold stack rather than a stack on fire.

It's a professional installation with one set of two 45' elbows at the ceiling to skirt around an attic joist/roof truss. Otherwise it's straight up.from the stove, through the ceiling, through the attic, and out of the roof. County building inspector (who has seen plenty of wood stove installs in this rural location) put his eyes on it at installation and OK'd it as well. Has worked perfectly to date.

And now I know about that! :)

Anyway, thank you for the feedback. It helps to hear it described so perfectly from some one else with some knowledge and experience! :)
 
Becasunshine, did you open a door when the smoke came in? You state a breeze was at hand during the smoke event. These are clues and they suggest wind blowing down the flue cap might have caused the event. Any exhaust fan on in the house, bathroom, kitchen hood, whole house, HHV or "whole house ventilation", and even an attic ventilation fan can cause smoke spillage. A window cracked open on the down-wind side of the house can cause a negative air pressure in the house too. Except at start-up with the loading door cracked open, an outside air kit ended the smoke spillage when my wife used the kitchen exhaust fan. Things to look for.
 
Finally installed chimney liner over the weekend. Burned a load Sunday nite hoping just to let burn out on Monday but my son added some wood around 10am. I filled the stove for overnite at 7:30pm and it is still in the active zone 21 hours later. What a change from the 70's Buck stove I had.
 
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Becasunshine If your BK stove is operated to keep the cat in the active zone, you char ~%18 (or less) moisture content wood load for 20 minutes on high and your chimney system is proper (it is) the flue will not creosote up. Some people run much higher moisture content wood and still have no problem. The cats in these BK stoves do an excellent job of scouring the combustion products. The proof in the emission numbers given in the manual. In 30 days get an inspection mirror and a flashlight and look up the flue. This won't hold true for everybody but I did not sweep my flue this year. It did not need it!
 
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After two full burn seasons with the Princess I will clean annually with no reservations about what's in the chimney.

In fact, I fill confident I could clean every other year but it's just not a big deal to do it with my setup.
 
Think I will get a soot eater this spring. Getting my top piece of 8" metalbestos (shimmed down to 6") off and on is a real balancing act pain at the top of my Little Giant ladder.
 
Bucket Truck! I rented one to trim trees and as I pulled out of my driveway...."Hey, clean the stack!" Boy that was sooooo cooool!
 
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After thinking about this for some time, I have a theory explaining "smoke smell". The door gasket is porous and is constantly-in very minuscule amounts- leaking air from the room to the combustion chamber laterally through the gasket. Creosote, by way of capillary action, permeates into the gasket and when hot evaporates and expands giving "smoke smell' gasses but never any smoke particles. If the fireside to room side air pressure differential is not great enough to overcome the expanding creosote gasses, they move -by expansion- into the room where they are sensed. Perhaps a creophobic gasket would preclude this capillary creosote movement.
 
After thinking about this for some time, I have a theory explaining "smoke smell". The door gasket is porous and is constantly-in very minuscule amounts- leaking air from the room to the combustion chamber laterally through the gasket. Creosote, by way of capillary action, permeates into the gasket and when hot evaporates and expands giving "smoke smell' gasses but never any smoke particles. If the fireside to room side air pressure differential is not great enough to overcome the expanding creosote gasses, they move -by expansion- into the room where they are sensed. Perhaps a creophobic gasket would preclude this capillary creosote movement.

I think Highbeam has beat you to this theory.

You wouldn't happen to have a dog would you?
 
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You wouldn't happen to have a dog would you?
I tried to test that theory and my pooch thought it would be funny if he farted. <> ;lol
 
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Well, I do happen to have 3 large breed dogs but in this case I think I will let sleeping dogs lie as my nose tells me the gaskets are intact.
 
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Creosote, by way of capillary action, permeates into the gasket and when hot evaporates and expands giving "smoke smell' gasses but never any smoke particles.

Explain, please. You do realize that when you smell a fart, you're breathing the air from someone's arse?
 
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Are we saying that there is possibly a different gasket (different material) we could install on the stove to help eliminate the smoke smell for those of us with less than ideal draft? Or am I missing a joke :).

Also - what is the ideal width of a split for the Ashford? I think most of mine are 8-10 inches wide on the back side of the wedge and it seems like I can never get the stove full with too much air space.
 
Are we saying that there is possibly a different gasket (different material) we could install on the stove to help eliminate the smoke smell for those of us with less than ideal draft? Or am I missing a joke :).

Also - what is the ideal width of a split for the Ashford? I think most of mine are 8-10 inches wide on the back side of the wedge and it seems like I can never get the stove full with too much air space.

The BK gasket is already high density so replacing it with regular won't help. The question is whether we are actually smelling smoke leakage or smelling the smell of creosote on the other side of the gasket. BKs let a lot of creo accumulate on the firebox side of the gasket. A strong draft will eliminate actual smoke leakage.

To fill the firebox you will need a mix of split sizes. The BKs are especially good at dealing with large splits but for maximum fuel range, you need maximum lbs of fuel so you need to fill the gaps. Sometimes you get lucky and the large splits fit together.
 
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