2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK) Part 2

[Woody Stover]

With a 10 year warranty from BK perhaps these cats are good for way more than the manufacturer rated 12000. Who knows? I suppose I'll just run it.

Maybe so. The diesel-foils seemed to start dropping in performance after three or so years, on my SIL's anyway. My diesel has been swapped back and forth with the ceramic, so it's hard to say how many hours it actually has. I haven't tried a Dura yet, but I have one coming.
The cat warranty in the BK manual looks to be fairly standard, and I think it would apply to your replacement:

Limited Six (6) Year Warranty:
The CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR is under warranty by Blaze King for six (6) years from the date of original retail purchase.
The purchaser shall pay the following share of the then current retail price for the combustor: The first three (3) years
no charge, 4th year 60%; 5th year 70%, 6th year 80%. The Combustor must be returned to your dealer along with a
completed COMBUSTOR FAILURE REPORT and original proof of purchase document.

The 10-year extended warranty appears to apply only to the original combustor that came with the stove, not the replacement you have in there now. I wonder how they determine weather the cat is covered, and weather it is "still functioning?" (10.) Has anyone ever called in the 10-yr. warranty, and what was the outcome? I don't really care too much about the warranties, myself. I pretty much expect them to start dropping off in performance after year 3, and will probably replace them not too long after that. Thing is, I buy backups and might have them sitting around for a couple years before I even start using them. I have a Dura coming, but may not start using it for two or three years.

1. The original warranty on the combustor, as stated in the owner’s manual, is still in effect.
2. The 10 Year Extended Warranty covers only the original combustor for 10 years against defects in manufacturing or materials.
5. The 10 Year Extended Warranty is only available to the original owner and is not transferrable.
10. If you need a replacement combustor you must contact the Blaze King dealer where you purchased your stove. You will purchase & be charged by the dealer for a replacement combustor. Your original combustor must then be returned to your dealer who must then send it to Blaze King where it will be inspected. Include a copy of the upper half of this certificate with the used combustor. Please follow the normal procedures for returning a combustor as set forth in your owner’s manual. After we assess the condition of the combustor and if we determine that it is covered under the 10 Year Extended Warranty, we will instruct your dealer to issue you a refund for the combustor you purchased. If we determine the returned combustor is still functioning or was damaged by causes unrelated to manufacturing or materials flaw, the used combustor will be returned to you and no refund will be issued.

 

[Highbeam]

"Years" is not a valid way to assess cat life since my year might include 20x the hours as the next guy's year. I realize that this is common in the industry though.

 

[tarzan]

I also wonder how many folks file a warranty claim on there original combuster and what percentage of those actually succeed.

 

[webby3650]

I also wonder how many folks file a warranty claim on there original combuster and what percentage of those actually succeed.

We've turned a few in with no issues. BK won't fight you like other companies if it's legitimate. Others go above and beyond trying to prevent paying out on a warranty, oftentimes the dealer ends up eating it because the manufacturer baulks and drags their feet. Not with BK

If it's not legitimate they won't cover it though. If the cat isn't physically degraded they will test it.

 

[Marshy]

I don't know how is supposed to work, but look the time of the pictures and you will see is less than five minutes window and that thing was going nuclear. It was loaded in the tight side.and I put some newspapers around. Hey, if it works, it works. Taking pictures was when I noticed something weird. The cat was almost touching between inactive/active line. Lol. That was quick

On a hot reload (which is practically every reload for me) I like to leave the door cracked for the wood to catch. I typically wait to hear that whooshing roar up the flue before I close the door. YMMV

Forgot bypass damper for 30 minutes this morning. Stove got hot enough that house filled with smoke, but damper felt fine and stove went right under control after closing bypass and lowering the thermostat.

I know that I need to inspect the bypass damper gasket retainers when the stove is cold, but I'm not sure what I'll be looking at or for.

Must have been a coincidence because yesterday morning I accidently left the door cracked waiting the stove to catch and returned upstairs to assist my sick wife with breakfast. When I smelled the baking paint on the DVL pipe down stairs it had been 15 mins or so. I ran down to see smoke rolling off the double wall pipe. I closed the door, the bypass, and dialed the air back to about half way. The flames in the box about went out but then the fire alarm started going off. Luckily I have that garage door down stairs and was able to get the smoke and smell out of the house fairly quickly. I'll be doing an inspection on the bypass gasket retainer when I run out of wood at the beginning of next month. If you have any pictures or reference material on what to look for please share.

So bk owners.... from a cold start, do you all start a small kindling fire, let it burn down, and then load full for the main event? The manual tells us to do this but I don't use this method.

I don't! I'm in the same boat as the rest of you. I build a log cabin of split 2x4 scraps in the center of the firebox when I do a cold start but place full size splits around it and over the top but leave large gaps. Light it and shut the door and add wood in 2-4 hours depending how much wood was put in there.

 

[Highbeam]

I build a log cabin of split 2x4 scraps in the center of the firebox when I do a cold start but place full size splits around it and over the top but leave large gaps. Light it and shut the door and add wood in 2-4 hours depending how much wood was put in there.

So you do do a "top up" load after the kindling has gone away somewhat. That might be a good hybrid approach to allow a full fuel tank but rapid warm up.

 

[Marshy]

So you do do a "top up" load after the kindling has gone away somewhat. That might be a good hybrid approach to allow a full fuel tank but rapid warm up.

Its a fairly good amount of wood. The stove heats up fast and there's a good mix of coals and partially burnt wood. If you get good you can build it so the larger top logs fall into the center as the smaller stuff burns down. The splits on the edge don't get fully burnt until after the first reload.

 

[Woody Stover]

I accidently left the door cracked waiting the stove to catch and returned upstairs

Ahhh, you don't wanna do that....

 

[lsucet]

Ahhh, you don't wanna do that....

What happened with your last post? i was having fun with your BK trauma.

 

[Marshy]

Ahhh, you don't wanna do that....

You are right, bad idea to leave unsupervised. Too easy to forget about it before coffee. I should have used some kindling to speed things up but I didn't and just loaded a full load on a cool coal bed. Live and learn I guess. Rolling smoke off the DVL pipe is not what you want to see in the morning.

 

[kennyp2339]

Did a 1/2 %$# cleaning, took the ashes out, then looked at the flame shield, had that thin dusty brown ash on it, took the shield off, got my compressor with air nozzle out and gave the cat a quick blow off.

 

[rdust]

Did a 1/2 %$# cleaning, took the ashes out, then looked at the flame shield, had that thin dusty brown ash on it, took the shield off, got my compressor with air nozzle out and gave the cat a quick blow off.

I assume you turned the regulator way down? High pressure air would be bad.

 

[kf6hap]

So, I went to vacuum off my cat's lightly fuzzed front surface and found it is somewhat loose in the holder. Not ready to fall out but just a bit loose while the gasket seems to be sealing. Normal? Second burn season for this Ashford 30.1. Operation excellent.

 

[Niko]

So, I went to vacuum off my cat's lightly fuzzed front surface and found it is somewhat loose in the holder. Not ready to fall out but just a bit loose while the gasket seems to be sealing. Normal? Second burn season for this Ashford 30.1. Operation excellent.

I have never even touched my cat at all, i have taken off my flame protector just to look at it. Do you see it sagging or something? Or are you trying to move it? I think at least when it gets hot it expands itself a lil bit also.

 

[Highbeam]

So, I went to vacuum off my cat's lightly fuzzed front surface and found it is somewhat loose in the holder. Not ready to fall out but just a bit loose while the gasket seems to be sealing. Normal? Second burn season for this Ashford 30.1. Operation excellent.

My steelcat is not tight in the can when the stove is cold. I assume it tightens up with heat/expansion but I ain't touching it to find out!

 

[kf6hap]

I was using the brush end of a vacuum hose and it moves a little. I guess as long as it is not going to jump out of the holder and is sealed, things are probably OK.

 

[Highbeam]

Guys, I tried a new thing and it really improves BK performance which is the name of this thread after all. I got tired of using firestarter chunks (not supercedars) after using the push button ignition propane torch in the shop stove. That thing works very well to ignite kindling and fast. My performance improvement goal for this test is to reduce warm up time, minimize smoke at warmup, and minimize the time to active cat cruise.

Top down method with a torch. Super fast increase in flue temps. I was bumping 900 degrees in very short time, then regardless of cat probe reading I engage the cat, it starts glowing and then eventually the cat meter climbs up into the active range. It is so much easier to load my standard wood load tight in the belly of the stove and then find space just under the cat for the small log cabin of kindling which to my amazement does indeed climb down into the fuel load.

Rather than 1 to 1.5 hours of puking smoke waiting for the cat probe to read active, I am engaging that cat in 15 minutes. Still get a good amount of startup smoke but it is less intense, warmer so it rises quickly, and doesn't last as long since the cat is in the game earlier.

I tried top down method earlier and didn't have luck but now with the torch I am getting much faster ignition and stronger draft sooner in the game.

 

[webby3650]

Guys, I tried a new thing and it really improves BK performance which is the name of this thread after all. I got tired of using firestarter chunks (not supercedars) after using the push button ignition propane torch in the shop stove. That thing works very well to ignite kindling and fast. My performance improvement goal for this test is to reduce warm up time, minimize smoke at warmup, and minimize the time to active cat cruise.

Top down method with a torch. Super fast increase in flue temps. I was bumping 900 degrees in very short time, then regardless of cat probe reading I engage the cat, it starts glowing and then eventually the cat meter climbs up into the active range. It is so much easier to load my standard wood load tight in the belly of the stove and then find space just under the cat for the small log cabin of kindling which to my amazement does indeed climb down into the fuel load.

Rather than 1 to 1.5 hours of puking smoke waiting for the cat probe to read active, I am engaging that cat in 15 minutes. Still get a good amount of startup smoke but it is less intense, warmer so it rises quickly, and doesn't last as long since the cat is in the game earlier.

I tried top down method earlier and didn't have luck but now with the torch I am getting much faster ignition and stronger draft sooner in the game.

An hour and a half? Man, I've never even taken 30 minutes to engage the cat. I just fill the box with wood, small piece of Super Cedar and off she goes! I wonder what the difference is?

 

[Highbeam]

An hour and a half? Man, I've never even taken 30 minutes to engage the cat. I just fill the box with wood, small piece of Super Cedar and off she goes! I wonder what the difference is?

In an effort to get the most fuel in the box I was getting pretty skimpy with kindling and then loading outdoor temp, big splits, tightly above the kindling to the roof. I should clarify that most times I am active before the hour is up but with the top down method I use the same amount of kindling on top where the kindling energy boosts flue temps and cat temps more than spending energy warming up the bulk fuel load.

No super cedar for me. I'm all about the torch now. Previously I used a golf ball sized chunk of wax type firestarter which was likely not as intense as a supercedar.

New routine is just working way better. I am getting the same amount of fuel under the kindling as I was before but it's easier to load.

I am certainly not the first person to be happy with the top down method but before I had bad luck with it.

 

[Tegbert]

So where do you store the torch? I believe in the boiler room people were saying that they have found them to start leaking over time. Granted I believe that they also said that they froze open or something from being outside in their shop or boiler room though. I like the idea of the torch though might have to pull mine out and try it.


Lopi Rockport

 

[kf6hap]

For my Ashford, if flames are licking up at the cat shield and the flue probe hits 400 it is rollover time. Instant red cat and never fails. Often in less than 15 minutes. No matter where the pointer is, it jumps to the active zone in a few minutes. Pine on the top of the pile greatly helps. Your rollover flue temp might vary but once found the stove is very boring.

For the 20 minute load char, I no longer run it at wide open and then come back later. I might get distracted. Instead I set the thermostat at ~4:00PM and set it to the final position when the stove top hits ~500 or if both dogs leave the room panting.

 

[Woody Stover]

regardless of cat probe reading I engage the cat, it starts glowing and then eventually the cat meter climbs up into the active range.

That, sir, is in blatant violation of the procedure mandated on page 45, section IV, paragraph d) of your manual! Do so at your own risk! Seriously though, many manuals will say (in so many words) that you may be able to get the cat burning as long as the exhaust reaching it is 500* but if you cut the air too soon, flame heat will diminish and the cat might crash. Good insurance is to keep some flame going for a little while after the cat has started glowing. That's what "cutting the air in increments," cat or non-cat, is about...getting the top of the firebox hot enough so the stove can maintain re-burn as you cut the air.
It's hard to get 500* to the cat when the fire is at the bottom of a big pile of wood, so you blow a ton of smoke before you can finally light the cat. Now, with a top-down, you also don't have as much wood charred early, so you have to keep pumping some flame heat up there to sustain the re-burn.

much easier to load my standard wood load tight in the belly of the stove and then find space just under the cat for the small log cabin of kindling which to my amazement does indeed climb down into the fuel load. Still get a good amount of startup smoke but it is less intense

I think you may get a bit more smoke loading N-S if the kindling is forward; Seems like the fire would work toward the back of the box, down into the load, and smoke from wood that is catching will go back to the flue instead of being consumed by the flame. Loading E-W, I put the kindling top/front and smoke from the wood that's catching rises up into the flame and is burned. The fire does work toward the back, since it's being pulled to the flue exit in the back, but not as fast as it would in a N-S load. For less smoke, you might try putting your kindling in the back so that the smoke from wood that's catching will go into the flame as the fire spreads forward into the load. Another thing I'll do that you could try, is putting the kindling on a wide, flat split; That keeps the fire from going down into the load as fast, and keeps the smoke up closer to the flame. But even if the fire goes down into the load, if you have it in the back of the box, the smoke pretty much has to go straight up and into the flame. Play around with it, and I bet you can cut your smoke output quite a bit more.

1 to 1.5 hours of puking smoke waiting for the cat probe to read active, I am engaging that cat in 15 minutes.

An hour and a half? Man, I've never even taken 30 minutes to engage the cat.

I'm usually 25-30 min, probably due to a moderate firing rate and having to heat up some stone, but nowhere close to an hour and a half!
I'm usually not in a big hurry, so I'll just stick with a chunk or two of SuperCedar and keep the torch out in the shop.

not the first person to be happy with the top down method but before I had bad luck with it.

I don't know if this was the issue but if your wood isn't real dry, the top-down is going nowhere.

 

[Ashful]

For my Ashford, if flames are licking up at the cat shield and the flue probe hits 400 it is rollover time. Instant red cat and never fails.

Ditto. I have found the cat probe useless, as an indicator for when to close the damper. I drive by flue thermometer, or just the look of the fire.

Often in less than 15 minutes. No matter where the pointer is, it jumps to the active zone in a few minutes.

"Often"? Mine never takes more than 10 - 15 minutes to closing bypass. Cat always glows within 30 seconds of that.

Define kindling, Highbeam? I just use a few 2x4's or cedar splits of similar size.

 

[Highbeam]

Ditto. I have found the cat probe useless, as an indicator for when to close the damper. I drive by flue thermometer, or just the look of the fire.

"Often"? Mine never takes more than 10 - 15 minutes to closing bypass. Cat always glows within 30 seconds of that.

Define kindling, Highbeam? I just use a few 2x4's or cedar splits of similar size.

Doug fir firewood split down to about 1". 6 of them, three layers of two. Then full size splits.

 

[jetsam]

If the stove isn't already blazing hot at reload time (which usually it is), I often get a dry pine split and whack it up into 2"-3" baby splits. A few of those in the coals to get the load going, put the load n/S on top of that, and one last dry pine baby split e/w on top of the load in front.

That one little dry piece of pine goes up like a torch right in front of the cat, and she's glowing red in a minute or two. By the time that little split simmers down, the rest of the load is going.