Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
ok thanksTake the cover off and lube the spring and washers with some copper anti-seize. I just put it on my finger and then turn the dial back and forth.
ok thanksTake the cover off and lube the spring and washers with some copper anti-seize. I just put it on my finger and then turn the dial back and forth.
I thought your stove was new this year woody?ok thanks
I ran mine last night with a load of more basswood. Flue temp was reading about 250° and the thermostat was between the 3 and 4 o'clock position. The cat was a little over the 4 o'clock position and glowing red. I don't think all these flue probes are bad ones. I just don't think there's much heat going out the stack.I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
I'm brand new to this forum and hope I'm not entering at the wrong place. We recently bought a blaze king ashford 30 and the thermostat will just rotate and doesn't have specific stops. We noticed it as we couldn't keep a fire burning when we closed the load door. Tonight my wife turned it a full turn past 3 and the fire stayed lit. I also notice the rod that the thermostat control knob is on doesn't turn when the knob is turned....shouldn't the rod turn when I turn the control knob?Take the cover off and lube the spring and washers with some copper anti-seize. I just put it on my finger and then turn the dial back and forth.
The set screw on the knob needs tightened. I takes a small Allen wrench. Tighten it, then turn it to its highest setting then loosen the knob, turn it until it lines up with the highest setting.I'm brand new to this forum and hope I'm not entering at the wrong place. We recently bought a blaze king ashford 30 and the thermostat will just rotate and doesn't have specific stops. We noticed it as we couldn't keep a fire burning when we closed the load door. Tonight my wife turned it a full turn past 3 and the fire stayed lit. I also notice the rod that the thermostat control knob is on doesn't turn when the knob is turned....shouldn't the rod turn when I turn the control knob?
Your assistance much appreciated!
Ok....there's a set screw on the rod....tightened, calibrated and fixed!I'm brand new to this forum and hope I'm not entering at the wrong place. We recently bought a blaze king ashford 30 and the thermostat will just rotate and doesn't have specific stops. We noticed it as we couldn't keep a fire burning when we closed the load door. Tonight my wife turned it a full turn past 3 and the fire stayed lit. I also notice the rod that the thermostat control knob is on doesn't turn when the knob is turned....shouldn't the rod turn when I turn the control knob?
Your assistance much appreciated!
Hey, am I the only one who find the whole metal shield in front of the cat glowing, every time I leave the stove run on high the recommended 20 - 30 minutes? I haven't seen a glowing cat "guard" in any of the other photos posted. I would think it's just my tall chimney, but I notice the same on my 14 foot chimney, as well.
It should now point at the 6 o'clock position when on high. Most people will run this stove around the 3 o'clock position the majority of the time.Ok....there's a set screw on the rod....tightened, calibrated and fixed!
It is, not sure why it's stiff alreadyI thought your stove was new this year woody?
I installed that same probe 18 inches up. Low burn with cat active I will get 250. Wide open doing a burn in of a fresh load with cat engaged it will get up to 600I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
Hey, am I the only one who find the whole metal shield in front of the cat glowing, every time I leave the stove run on high the recommended 20 - 30 minutes? I haven't seen a glowing cat "guard" in any of the other photos posted. I would think it's just my tall chimney, but I notice the same on my 14 foot chimney, as well.
I have been running consistently between 225 and 350 deg temps in my flue about 16" up from the stove collar, the only time I go above 350deg is when the by-pass is open waiting for active range on the cat, or running full blast with the cat engaged for 45min on my weekly burn off'sI know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
that doesn't sound goodIt is, not sure why it's stiff already
It happens. Not sure why, but we've had a few do this in the first season.that doesn't sound good
It is, not sure why it's stiff already
I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
I couldn't stall my cat even if I wanted to. I'm always running at lowest setting till it's time to reload. Nothing special about my install either. 15 ft straight up class A, double wall stove pipe, and 15% MC oakMaybe my flue meter is bad and reading high. I can only get it down to 400, maybe 350 before I risk stall. Though mine is a condar.
Do you reapply silicone when reinstalling cover?My thermostat knob spring tension gets stiff every year too. It's normal. It still works of course, and the actual thermostat mechanism is not needing lube, just the operating shaft. When you pop off the stat cover (#2 square drive) you will see the points that need lube. I have only used a gun oil since I wanted a runny lube that would get in between the plates but next time I will be taking webby's advice and using the copper antiseize which is sold at auto parts stores and I always have a big bottle of. That stuff will go on like butter and then melt into the layers of metal that need to slide on each other without disassembly.
Oh and the stat cover will be stuck on with a layer of silicone in the back so don't be surprised if it takes some work to remove.
I couldn't stall my cat even if I wanted to. I'm always running at lowest setting till it's time to reload. Nothing special about my install either. 15 ft straight up class A, double wall stove pipe, and 15% MC oak
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