1st pellet stove.heatilator Eco cab50...only heats one room
- Thread starter DDJR
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Mpodesta
Member
Dont worry about cleaning the fly ash daily, just pull the cleaning rod each day for the burn pot. You can run it weeks on end before you need to do a big cleaning (pull baffles ect ect....)
I too have scraped knuckles. If i dont clean the ash out from behind the baffles wont it block the venting? Id love to not do that daily. My burn pot gets lots of solid waste in it daily. Not sure if theyre clinkers or not but they block off the holes in the bottom of the pot
Mpodesta
Member
No, the venting will be fine.
the solid waste will drop when you pull the cleaning rod, i usually do so as im out the door for work.
The most recent cleaning, i would say the as was at-least 3-4 inches deep in the burn chamber around the pot and everything was just fine
the solid waste will drop when you pull the cleaning rod, i usually do so as im out the door for work.
The most recent cleaning, i would say the as was at-least 3-4 inches deep in the burn chamber around the pot and everything was just fine
Cool! So it seems like mine is fine then. Im going to close the feed thingie down a little more tonight. See if anything changes.
Hdhogger
Feeling the Heat
Pulling and cleaning behind the baffles should be done every 25 bags as the manual says. If I'm burning a bag a day I pull the firepot rod once a day. When its in the single numbers or teens I burn 2 bags a day and clean the fire pot every 12 hours or so. Your firebox should be vacuumed out before the ash starts to fall into the firepot. When you do your 25 bag cleaning try using your vacuum to clean the firebox instead of scraping. This is what I've always done works great. The only thing I scrape out is the firepot using the tool supplied with the stove.
People tend not to read instructionjs and owners manuals (the best source of knowledge actually) and prefer to use sites like this, or U-tube or other social media for knowledge when, in fact, a good percentage of that 'wisdom' is actually garbage. It's mostly all there in the manual included with the appliance... If you can read that is.
"CAUTION: THE “5” SETTING IS DESIGNED FOR TEMPORARY USE ONLY. IF USED FOR EXTENDED PERIODS, IT CAN SHORTEN
THE LIFE EXPECTANCY OF THE UNITS COMPONENTS. AVOID USE AT THIS SETTING FOR MORE THAN ONE OR TWO
HOURS AT A TIME."
Page 11 of Owners manual from Breckwell
Also Manufactured by Intertek/Warnock-Hersey
From Page 11 of the Manual from Breckwell
From Page 11 of the Manual from Breckwell
Must be a wimpy unit then. I run my cheap azzed USSC flat out for weeks at a time....no issue and I 'souped' it up as well.
Warnock-Hershey manufacturers NOTHING. They are an accredited test facility just like AGA (American Gas Association) is for gas burning appliances. A WH certification means the appliance has met or exceeded the criteria set forth by them. Nothing more.
I don't believe I'd consider purchasing any appliance that I could not run at 100 percent output for an extended time without suffering issues. To me that indicates sub standard construction/components.
Warnock-Hershey manufacturers NOTHING. They are an accredited test facility just like AGA (American Gas Association) is for gas burning appliances. A WH certification means the appliance has met or exceeded the criteria set forth by them. Nothing more.
I don't believe I'd consider purchasing any appliance that I could not run at 100 percent output for an extended time without suffering issues. To me that indicates sub standard construction/components.
Uh oh mine has been on high (3) for a day or so now. It doesnt have a 5, only low medium and high. Do any heatilator cab50 owners not run their stove on high all night?( Im reading the manual as i type.
Mpodesta
Member
DDJR, thats not for the stove we have.
Mine has been on high all winter (day and night), the winter before this one and the one before that.
Mine has been on high all winter (day and night), the winter before this one and the one before that.
Ah, thats good news. I looked through the owners manual and it does not mention limiting high run time. Only that med and low will take longer to heat up a space. I guess my flame is too big/tall. The manusl shows a little flame(compaired to mine), so i will shut down my feed supply when i can access it. Its buried with pellets right now.
Mpodesta
Member
If you click on my picture, thats mine set on high with 3/4 of the feed gate open, no outside air kit
yeah, that's about what my flame looks like. It does diminish down to just barely above the burn pot, but then it jumps up to about the height of the glass. So it seems normal, yes? Overall I'm very happy with the performance of the stove. It heats our entire 2400 square foot house. And our house is chopped up into all sorts of unnecessary little rooms. it was built in 1789, I guess they needed lots of little rooms back then. And no closets.
Mpodesta
Member
Hdhogger
Feeling the Heat
Just throwing this out there but the CAB-50 and Classic Bay 1200 I have had burning in the store all season has not needed scraped once this season. The XXV I burn at home gets scraped once a week if it needs it or not. I have burnt the same brand of pellets in all units and they all have an up and out exhaust with the two in the store having 7' vertical and then a 2' horizontal. The XXV has a 4' vertical and 3' horizontal. As everyone knows I don't clean my stoves unless they get a blockage or the ash comes out the door. Any questions feel free to ask.
Eric
Lake Girl
Moderator
Glad to hear it is doing well heating ... Much upgrading to insulation, house wrap? Small rooms and no closets were still a problem in the 1900 home we had previously.
I only sell ProPellets and insure you get 100% indoor storage. Moisture content and lost density in pellets kills the BTU.
Eric
Lake girl, ive insulated between basement and first floor, 1st and 2nd floor outer walls, new windows, housewrap, (wood) siding, had tigerfoam sprayed on the basementwalls. I left the attic floor insulation as it was. But that is next on the list. Eric im going to look around for propellets. What do they go for per ton?
I am not sure how far east you will find them. My stores have them for around $245 per ton right now.
Eric
Eric
Lake Girl
Moderator
Glad to see the upgrade on insulation & windows. The old house we had, bare inside the balloon framed walls
. Main bulk of the first floor got insulation, vapour barrier and sheetrock ... once Mom demolished the moisture destroyed plaster and lathe. There's still a couple of walls in the current home that need the same treatment. Luckily, panelling and insulating board - no plaster mess
- Status
Similar threads
