1980 jotul 118B

[Dug8498]

My stove has basically the same thing. I wear forge gloves when I load the stove and just hold the flap towards the outside while I load. I usually don't have to add much wood between full loads, so it's generally a non issue. It just makes a lot of noise.

Ahh well if mine could have swung out of the stove that would have been a different story! Unfortunately it only swung inward into the stove. It made a whole lot of noise too if I happened to just let it swing back. Woke my wife up many mornings with that thing haha


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[SpaceBus]

Ahh well if mine could have swung out of the stove that would have been a different story! Unfortunately it only swung inward into the stove. It made a whole lot of noise too if I happened to just let it swing back. Woke my wife up many mornings with that thing haha


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I'm getting better with the middle of the night stealth reload.i need to get some graphite for the door latch and hinges. I also have a long box stove, but a new EPA Morso 2b classic. I would have gotten an EPA 118, but they have problems.

 

[Dug8498]

I'm getting better with the middle of the night stealth reload.i need to get some graphite for the door latch and hinges. I also have a long box stove, but a new EPA Morso 2b classic. I would have gotten an EPA 118, but they have problems.

What would graphite do? Morso's are good looking stoves, how do you like it? Yeah I haven't read many good things about the newer 118 blackbears unfortunately. I am hoping to upgrade my stove to a newer more efficient stove with a larger firebox in the next few years

 

[SpaceBus]

What would graphite do? Morso's are good looking stoves, how do you like it? Yeah I haven't read many good things about the newer 118 blackbears unfortunately. I am hoping to upgrade my stove to a newer more efficient stove with a larger firebox in the next few years

We love our little squirrel stove, but we also have a small well insulated house. I can't get more than 6 hours of meaningful heat per full load, but I also don't have any dense hardwoods like oak or locust available. I would prefer a stove that could run all night, but then it would cook us out of the house or become a creosote factory. Most of what we burn is birch, maple, hemlock and spruce. It's our first winter in this house and with a wood stove (at least since I was a kid) and the small supply of seasoned wood is running low. We plan on supplementing the sub 30% MC wood we've been splitting and stacking along with a bio brick type product to get us through this winter.

The graphite is a high temp lubricant. I don't know if it would work on the flap, but the latch and hinges definitely.

 

[Dug8498]

We love our little squirrel stove, but we also have a small well insulated house. I can't get more than 6 hours of meaningful heat per full load, but I also don't have any dense hardwoods like oak or locust available. I would prefer a stove that could run all night, but then it would cook us out of the house or become a creosote factory. Most of what we burn is birch, maple, hemlock and spruce. It's our first winter in this house and with a wood stove (at least since I was a kid) and the small supply of seasoned wood is running low. We plan on supplementing the sub 30% MC wood we've been splitting and stacking along with a bio brick type product to get us through this winter.

The graphite is a high temp lubricant. I don't know if it would work on the flap, but the latch and hinges definitely.

Good to know about the graphite. And good luck with the rest of the winter! I was trying to burn 30-40% MC wood last winter because I didn't know any better; it sucked. Sounds like your situation is better than that and I imagine bio bricks will definitely help

 

[SpaceBus]

Good to know about the graphite. And good luck with the rest of the winter! I was trying to burn 30-40% MC wood last winter because I didn't know any better; it sucked. Sounds like your situation is better than that and I imagine bio bricks will definitely help

Thanks, I feel like we could use some good luck!

Also, the graphite lube can be bought as an aerosol spray for easier application.

 

[begreen]

You can also use Never-Seez for hinge pins and latches.

 

[BlackBetty06]

Here’s my stove

 

[begreen]

Thanks for posting. That's very helpful. It's been at least 15 yrs since I have had a chance to look at an earlier 118, but I didn't recall this being an issue. Doug8498 check to see if your flameout plate is hanging in the right location.

 

[Dug8498]

That is very interesting indeed thanks indeed for posting. That’s definitely not where mine was and mine looks to be larger than the part you posted. Perhaps you were right that mine was some sort of aftermarket part.

I can’t check right now as the fire is going, but at some point soon I’ll pop the top off and see if I have that slot you have where it can fit in.


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[Dug8498]

Ok so here are pics of the parts I pulled out. The flap is the same as yours Betty. My side with the letters was installed to face into the stove so you couldn’t see it on previous pictures. I popped the top off and I do have that slat that you showed, but that metal piece doesn’t really fit in there it just rests on top.

As you can also see I have other hardware that was used to fasten the metal flap into the stove opening. There are prefabed holes in the stove where some hardware is supposed to go. I do believe that the metal flap is supposed to go in the door opening.



If you zoom in on this last picture there is hole to the right of the stove opening where the hardware I have is meant to screw into.

 

[BlackBetty06]

hmmm. Im not sure what all that hardware is. As you can see, the little slats are cast into my stove and the piece just drops in there. What year was your stove made?

 

[Dug8498]

1979. The hardware is used to attach the flap to the pre drilled hole shown in the last picture. Like I said In my previous post, my neighbors all have this stove, and there’s are all installed the way I showed in the previous post (partially covering the firebox). On mine, If you look towards the back of the stove near the exhaust it has an Identical set of slats to the one where you have yours dropped into. I don’t think that is what those slats are meant for. If you get a chance check to see if you have those predrilled holes on the inside to the right and left of the door.

That being said, it probably doesn’t matter all that much it sounds like your stove is functioning fine.


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[BlackBetty06]

No pre drilled holes in my stove. I believe this is where the flap belongs. The only evidence I have is this stove was bought new and installed by the dealer. The people only used it 1 year and it sat there for 36 years before I picked it up. This is where the piece was located when I picked the stove up.

 

[Dug8498]

No pre drilled holes in my stove. I believe this is where the flap belongs. The only evidence I have is this stove was bought new and installed by the dealer. The people only used it 1 year and it sat there for 36 years before I picked it up. This is where the piece was located when I picked the stove up.

Interesting! Well I would be interested to hear from anyone else that has one of these where their flap hangs [emoji38] hope you’re liking your stove Betty, we like ours quite a bit.


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[BlackBetty06]

I love it! Great little stove. What i really like is the detail that was put into the design of the stove. Its not as efficient as the new black squares but looks just as good burning as it does when its not. Throws a ton of heat too on a full load. It doesnt hold it for more than 6 hours but Ive always had an appreciation for simple design that works as intended every time. A little extra moisture in your wood? No problem, just give it a little more draft. Thats why I bought a simple hand fired coal stove. NO electrical moving parts to fail and nothing in my flue other than the pipe itself to clog up!!

 

[Jude Thaddeus Schork]

I ‘m new to the forum and I see that the posts were from more than two years ago but I have the same question regarding the placement of the flameout panel. As the photo of the inside front panel shows, there is no pre drilled hole to attach the plate. What to do? Did some of the 118 models not come with a flameout panel?

 

[D. Hermit]

I ‘m new to the forum and I see that the posts were from more than two years ago but I have the same question regarding the placement of the flameout panel. As the photo of the inside front panel shows, there is no pre drilled hole to attach the plate. What to do? Did some of the 118 models not come with a flameout panel?

Correct, 118s were made in UL and non UL models, the non UL models had no flameout plate.