Jotul Castine install on outside chimney?

[04074]

Hi All, new to forum. I want to install a castine. I have read some articles on the subject of outside chimneys and know they are not ideal, so I guess my question is is it a deal breaker, or just occasionally a pain.

Here are the details: Southern Maine location, first floor of salt box, gable end install, 18 ft metalbestos, can go up and out or rear vent. Chimney on 4/12 pitch side, about 3 ft in from edge of house (9 ft to peak). Will observe to 10/2/3 rule and plan on building a chase around the chimney.

So, what do you think?? Appreciate all feedback.

Regards
Ken

 

[Carl]

Any suitable chimney will work. In this world we are seeking the perfect everything but it will never happen so get as good as you can. I certainly wouldn't not install a wood stove just because I had an outside chimney. May not be ideal but these have worked for years and I think they still will.

 

[quinn]

The only suggestion I have is to upgrade to the Oslo and take a pass on the Castine. I have both a Castine and Firelight and the Castine has a small firebox and it is hard to burn without choking up the glass. When run really hot start to finish the glass stays clear. When I turn it down, even half way, the glass chokes up some around the corners. My wood is perfectly seasoned and the Firelight does not choke up at all, even when turned down. For the few hundred extra bucks I regret not going for the Oslo.

 

[04074]

Carl, thanks for the feedback. Not really looking for perfection, just don't want to spend $$$$ for something that doesn't work.

The dealers I have talked to all stress inside chimneys, and this article (broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/chimneys.htm) is concerning...

 

[04074]

2jotultom, thanks for the reply. I like the oslo. I even read somewhere that it drafts better than the Castine. Just worried that it will blow me out of the room... (16x24)

 

[fossil]

...In this world we are seeking the perfect everything but it will never happen so get as good as you can.

Carl...I'm shocked! You mean you actually expect me to believe you don't roast the perfect brat? :bug: On the subject of the original post (sorry), my understanding is that the disdain with which many regard exterior chimneys stems from the fact that they get cold, and take a while to warm up, and so will tend toward more creosote formation. If you use a good insulated liner in it, I'd think you would go a ways toward mitigating that problem. There must be close to a zillion perfectly serviceable woodstove installations in use out there with exterior chimney configurations. I had one in Virginia, no problems. Experts will, no doubt, correct me. Rick

 

[Carl]

Carl, thanks for the feedback. Not really looking for perfection, just don't want to spend $$$$ for something that doesn't work.

The dealers I have talked to all stress inside chimneys, and this article (broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/chimneys.htm) is concerning...

Since you are using metalbestos chimney it should work. That is double wall pipe and won't stay cold long on the inside. And with the 18 foot length I doubt you will have any draft problem....but there may be those occasional days when you may see reduced draft. We get that here if the wind is form the SE due to the land configuration. You will need to keep a hot fire in it or may get a little more creosote but I doubt that too. These new stoves operate very nicely. One suggested a larger stove and firebox which may be better. I am not familiar with the stoves you are looking at but lots on here are. You don't have to fill the stove to capacity for a good burn.


From the page you quoted.

Large, cold chimneys, like old brick ones, suck up the heat from the exhaust, causing slow draft build up.

Size the flue to match the stove and use an insulated chimney to keep exhaust hot and moving quickly; never use and air-cooled chimney

 

[Carl]

...In this world we are seeking the perfect everything but it will never happen so get as good as you can.

Carl...I'm shocked! You mean you actually expect me to believe you don't roast the perfect brat? :bug: On the subject of the original post (sorry), my understanding is that the disdain with which many regard exterior chimneys stems from the fact that they get cold, and take a while to warm up, and so will tend toward more creosote formation. If you use a good insulated liner in it, I'd think you would go a ways toward mitigating that problem. There must be close to a zillion perfectly serviceable woodstove installations in use out there with exterior chimney configurations. I had one in Virginia, no problems. Experts will, no doubt, correct me. Rick

Well Rick, I must admit that those fire brewed brats are wonderful but tonight I did mine in the microwave. Not perfect, not even near perfection, but still provides some protein for my old body.

I am with you on your chimney post. I think the main problem with long, huge, cement chimneys is the creosote buildup potential, not the draft.

 

[04074]

thanks for the reply fossil, I guess my concerns (fears) are:

1. Room filling with smoke when loading stove.

2. Hard to establish draft. I can live with this one, the other two not so much...

3. Foul odor due to "stack effect"

 

[begreen]

The Castine requires a bit stronger draft than the Oslo. Keep horizontal runs short and elbows at a minimum. I didn't have issues with glass smoking up, but during the shoulder season's draft could be a bit cranky and one had to open the door slowly to not get smoke in the room. How large a place are you heating? Is this an open floor plan? If yes, I concur the Oslo might be a better choice for Maine.

 

[fossil]

There are tricks...well, let's call them "techniques", that sounds more professional...that one can use to establish draft when lighting from cold that will minimize smoke intrusion into the room. When I'd go out to our weekend place in the winter, and the house was cold and the chimney & stove were cold, and it was even colder outside, I'd need to "encourage" the draft through the stove to get it going. Ordinarily, though, your home is presumably going to be relatively warm inside, so it should rarely be an issue. If the stove is burning well, and you open the air control before loading, then damp back down after shutting the door, you should get very little smoke ever coming out of it. I never had a problem with any sort of odor from the chimney/stove in the house, from any of my stoves or fireplaces. Rick

 

[Todd]

I think you will be fine with an outside chimney especially if you build an insulated chase around it. Most outside chimneys that create drafting problems are oversize masonry or brick chimneys, they just have a hard time warming up to help the draft. My chimney is outside masonry with 8x12 clay tile flue. I vented 2 different stoves into it this way and the draft was not up to par and very sluggish on warmer days. When I dropped a 5.5" s/s liner down it was like night and day difference. Now the draft is too strong and I need a pipe damper to control it. Sure inside would be better, but as long as you keep the chimney diameter the recommended size of the stove exhaust you should get good results.

 

[quinn]

I forgot to mention the smoke spillage from the Castine, yet another strike against it in my opinion. I have 24 feet of straight up, inside chimney and still the stove spills smoke unless I open the door very slowly. I wouldn't buy the Castine again.

 

[04074]

Hi BeGreen, thanks for the info. My House is a 24x36 foot cape with full dormer. It isn't really open concept but the room where the stove will go is 16x24, from this room there are 2 hallways to the other end of the house. I think air circulation will be ok.

One other question. Would rear vent be the way to go? I think I could place the stove closer to the wall and would prefer this if I wouldn't have to sacrifice draft.

 

[04074]

Hey Rick, thanks for the tips!

P.S. Love your sig.

 

[04074]

Hey Todd, thanks for the feedback. Makes perfect sense.

 

[04074]

Thanks again Carl.

 

[04074]

Good to know, thanks for the info jotultom. I also like the left loading door on the oslo. I may go that way if I can squeeze it in.

 

[begreen]

Hi BeGreen, thanks for the info. My House is a 24x36 foot cape with full dormer. It isn't really open concept but the room where the stove will go is 16x24, from this room there are 2 hallways to the other end of the house. I think air circulation will be ok.

One other question. Would rear vent be the way to go? I think I could place the stove closer to the wall and would prefer this if I wouldn't have to sacrifice draft.

When I first got the Castine I had issues with smoke spillage and balky starts with autumn burning. It was connected rear-exit to a 6" stub, then into an elbow to head it straight up. Fortunately Ryan (MSG) knew the stove and let me know it was draft sensitive. I investigated the installation and found that the horiz run out of the rear exit was pitched slightly downhill. After I got it running uphill, the stove behaved much better. In retrospect, I would have run the stove top exit instead. But hindsight is 20/20 vision, right? Since then I've learned that it indeed does have a stronger draft requirement than the Oslo.

If there is also a second floor, it sounds like you can handle the Oslo. If that's the choice then it should be ok with rear exit. Just be sure to pitch it uphill 1/4"/ft. and keep the horiz run as short as possible. If it's only one floor, under 1000 sq ft. and you choose the Castine, I'd probably use the top exit and go vertical for a short run to encourage draft. Then after the 90, be sure the horiz run is pitched upward toward the chimney at least 1/4" per foot, keeping the horiz run short.