Nope was just liberal with cement has a good fit but the way the liner comes down it rests on the bricks we took at it just kinda snaked down that way really pulling forward is about impossible I do see what ur saying about pulling forward and pushing down into the stove but it just doesn't want to
15 degree elbow or offset?
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
So if I understand you right, where the blower is attached to the stove has openings other than where the blower attaches and then obviously at the top too?
Yes blower housing has air intake holes... When it seats into opening of the rear heat shield. The shield also is open at the bottom and of course the top lip where the blowers output is. I know it is trying to do two jobs instead of one. With ur hand at the bottom u feel it trying to suck air and blow through the heat shield. Plugging that bottom will increase its output 10 fold I garuntee it. I just need to know what to do it with I'm modeling it after my insert which is just the blower connecting directly to the air jacket not trying to pull air in and push out but strictly pushing out
Blower by itself throws air 12 feet across the room
I know I'm posting in chaos mode but that bottom opening is robbing its potential to push volume
My insert sort of fits the way yours is, looking back I should have used an elbow, since you want to pull it out a bit an elbow will make that easier. I think a better block off plate will be as much help as pulling the stove out if not more.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Hmmm....sorry, not quite following you on the blower/heat shield hole issue.
Under the front of my stove I have two 4" 120v computer fans, that is plenty to move the heat, actually, it does fine without 'em, just a lil better with. Those two fans don't move a ton of air, but what I do get is pretty warm. If I was pushing alot more air past the stove, I would think that it would just be more, but cooler, air. It doesn't really gain you that much. I know there is some gain from moving more air, just because of the higher temp differential of the stove surface, but not tons better. Did you ever try blowing a small fan or two back into the FP?
I also made a block off plate that is flush with the bottom of my arched FP opening (follows the same arched profile front to back) cut to fit all the contours of the inside of my FP, tapers down to right above the stove top in the back. Covered by Roxul. That funnels the hot air right out of the FP cavity if the fans are on or not. It made a noticeable difference from just having the old smoke shelf blocked off, like you have now.
Under the front of my stove I have two 4" 120v computer fans, that is plenty to move the heat, actually, it does fine without 'em, just a lil better with. Those two fans don't move a ton of air, but what I do get is pretty warm. If I was pushing alot more air past the stove, I would think that it would just be more, but cooler, air. It doesn't really gain you that much. I know there is some gain from moving more air, just because of the higher temp differential of the stove surface, but not tons better. Did you ever try blowing a small fan or two back into the FP?
I also made a block off plate that is flush with the bottom of my arched FP opening (follows the same arched profile front to back) cut to fit all the contours of the inside of my FP, tapers down to right above the stove top in the back. Covered by Roxul. That funnels the hot air right out of the FP cavity if the fans are on or not. It made a noticeable difference from just having the old smoke shelf blocked off, like you have now.
Fans don't do much for me they just trickle the heat out . I need that forceful push like the insert to throw it out there my ceilings just eat that slow heat output. When we get the stove back out ill show you what I mean. There needs to be a good ration of input and output air and it has far to much input attempting to move air through a wide channel is useless has no pressure behind it. Do you know of some kind of a sealer than can with stand that heat if I try to plug it up a bit?
Nick,
just glancing through the thread, and noticed and wanted to mention - (just in case you overlooked) that the hearth protection seems lacking out front - with the stove sitting out like it shows in the picture. I noticed a carpet in the one picture, is the floor non combustionable?
Nick Mystic
Minister of Fire
madison,
You are right about the hearth clearance in front of my stove, but it's not a safety issue. The Jotul F 600 has a removable front door handle, so basically once you remove the handle you can't open the doors without it. I do all my loading through the side door where I have six feet of brick hearth extension. I only open the front doors when the stove is cold to occasionally clean the glass. Since that photo was taken I put a larger hearth rug for ember protection in front of the stove that runs a couple of feet past the side door.
You are right about the hearth clearance in front of my stove, but it's not a safety issue. The Jotul F 600 has a removable front door handle, so basically once you remove the handle you can't open the doors without it. I do all my loading through the side door where I have six feet of brick hearth extension. I only open the front doors when the stove is cold to occasionally clean the glass. Since that photo was taken I put a larger hearth rug for ember protection in front of the stove that runs a couple of feet past the side door.
just wanted to make sure you were aware ... not to hijack, but i would hazard a guess the rug would not "hold up" (insurance/risk mitigation) if you were to have a fire and/or selling the home or have local building inspector notice. and not to hammer any further, but recommending your install with the picture IMHO, is not a great idea if you are aware of the hearth clearance infraction. sorry i will stop with that. no flame intended
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The red (orange) high temp silicone is good for 500-650* depends on brand. That's plenty high enough for what you want to do. Go to any auto parts store, they'll have it.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I'll buy some but I have some gasket stuff I'll try when stove is pulled out see how it holds... Gonna have sheet metal shop fab me a custom scoop for top half of the nc-30 wrap around flue exit make that air have a longer route to build up m throw heat! Nothing wring with modding things here and there lol
That blower sucks a ton of air up through the opening in the bottom of that heat shield and then it is blown over the hot top of the stove. Plug that opening up and you are just flat screwing up.
Really feels like it is trying to draw and push far to much air through the heat shield... Out of stove it throws awesome in its cavity on rear of stove it is a dud when I get stove out for my elbow and new block plate I will post back to see if modifications helps with output of blower
The bottom opening of the back shield is where the cool are is being pulled for the blower, don't block it off.
Rushing is mistake #1, overthinking is mistake #2.
If it doesn't heat as designed, there is other problems.
Rushing is mistake #1, overthinking is mistake #2.
If it doesn't heat as designed, there is other problems.
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