I have a small 2 CU ft stove just like the 13 and you will get tired loading it so often. Get the 30 and call it a day.At $649 It cost less than a single 250 gal tank of heating oil and last 100 times longer.
The new Englander Madison has an ember -protection-only hearth requirement, but it is also a 3 cu ft stove. Another stove to consider might be the PE True North TN19. It's 2 cu ft, has an EPO hearth requirement and under $1000.
another shot of the Madison:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hpb-expo-news.125755/#post-1689020
PE TN 19:
(broken link removed to http://pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces-2/truenorth/)
I've been watching this thread,and have to agree. I know for a FACT that too big isn't good. I'd rather run a small stove hard than have one that's too big and have smoldering fires. Overheating a space is not comfortable or efficient. Just an opinion.FACT: The NC30 is a beast
FACT: A well insulated 1500SF house isn't tough to heat
FACT: getting an "overnight burn" from an NC30 would require you to fill it up
FACT: A full NC30 will produce a ton of heat MY OPINION: probably too much heat
FACT: Assuming you know what you're doing, with a NC13 you'll have plenty of coals to scrape together in the morning thereby eliminating the need to restart your fire every morning
Mabe somebody can tell me thier burn time. Coal to coal in the 13 with good hard wood. Oak and hickory.
Im cutting standing dead trees. That died last summer. I think if i get c/s/s this spring itll be ready this winter. But i have to cut twice as much. To get on that 2 year rotation. Agin i want to tell everybody thanks. All my wood burning has been old smoke dragons. Im having to relearn how to burn for epa stoves.
Thanks we are still debating. Call blaze king dealer got a price of $2653 out the door for a parlor model princess. Basic stove. Black door no fan no convection deck.
Im gona hold out and get a look at the Madison.
With 100% Sugar Maple wood (a "junk" tree)
Even if the tree is already "dead", I believe the "clock" does not start until it is split and stacked to season properly.
Thanks, Rick, for that detailed report. One quibble: Sugar maple is a very good firewood tree with about 24 mill. BTU per cord. Somewhere between ash and oak. Maybe you are confusing it with silver maple which is the "softwood" relative. Sugar maple can get punky relatively easily though, when not cut and split in time.
On side note that may make some of the soft wood burners mad. Up till i started burning to supplement heat. I would cut oaks and hickory in the summer. just to have bon fires to stand around and drink in the winter. Well live and learn.
s'okay. Silver Maple is still a hardwood, just with a lower heat value like alder and poplar. Softwoods are exclusively naked seed trees like conifers.Ouch! I am sorry, I meant silver maple in my original post- I will edit it now. Thanks for catching that. Lesson learned- don't type while eating pancakes with maple syrup. Thanks Grisu.
If anyone us still watching this thread. I bought an englander madison today. I did the first break in burn today, outside. With a temp outside temp of 88 and 5' flue. It was hard to get up to the 300 deg first burn. But want to get the break in burns done before i move it inside.
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