My stove is still not staying lit, sent another PM to Mike Holton on Saturday. He must be super busy. Anyone else think i should try replacing the auger motor?
10 cpm problem
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Before I replaced an auger motor, I would remove it from the stove and connect it to a patch cord(if not comfortable with 110v then please do NOT try!) If it ran for a decent amount of time on the patch cord (20 minutes at 100% duty cycle) then I doubt its the auger motor.
I agree w/ Dex. If you feel comfortable working with 120v ac, remove the motor from the stove completely and use an old lamp cord to power it (insulate any bare wires!!). Plug it into the wall and let it run for a while. If it will run for a while (20-30 minutes continuous, like Dex said), then I doubt it's the motor.
I will remove the auger motor and test it like you are suggesting. I have no problem working with the part out of the stove. Thanks for the feedback, will keep you updated
With the auger removed and connected to constant power it ran for an hour. When the stove does work, it does not stay hot enough to keep convection blower working. If i add some pellets to grate it will kick back on. The temp change is apparent. This stove does not feed enough fuel to keep it hot on the highest setting. The stove will still shut down, leaving the burn grate full of unburnt pellets. Sucks.
after talking with Mike Holton again...we decided to try a different pellet. Luckily i found some Green teams....same trouble...stove not staying lit. when it does run the convection blower shuts off....or stove will shut down. the stove is being starved
Is this stove on a thermostat? If so, are you sure the wires are tight in the stat and in the stove?
If not, are you sure the jumper wire is still in place and the terminals are tight?
If not, are you sure the jumper wire is still in place and the terminals are tight?
When you had the auger motor out of the stove, did you check that it was running at the correct rpm?
Check your hopper lid switch if any.
For a short test jump that vacuum switch and start the stove up, let it run for several hours and make sure you are watching that stove while you run it this way. .
For a short test jump that vacuum switch and start the stove up, let it run for several hours and make sure you are watching that stove while you run it this way. .
hopper lid switch works...open the lid and no pellets delivered at all....already have vacuum switch bypassed as per Mike Holton.
Check your auger for being true, the auger spiral against its shaft and no gaps between the end of the auger spiral and its shaft, and tightly connected to the auger motor.
There was one case on here of an auger that had separated at it end over the drop tube and was scraping during part of its revolution disrupting the pellet flow (revolution) and a case of an auger spiral that had separated from its shaft and while the shaft rotated the spiral didn't pellets weren't being delivered very often (bad welds, can't remember the stove), then a bent auger will drag and mess up the feed.
Also it isn't unknown for auger motors to just fail after getting warm (hot). Testing a motor not under load will not find all auger motor issues.
There was one case on here of an auger that had separated at it end over the drop tube and was scraping during part of its revolution disrupting the pellet flow (revolution) and a case of an auger spiral that had separated from its shaft and while the shaft rotated the spiral didn't pellets weren't being delivered very often (bad welds, can't remember the stove), then a bent auger will drag and mess up the feed.
Also it isn't unknown for auger motors to just fail after getting warm (hot). Testing a motor not under load will not find all auger motor issues.
I don't know how that stove detects it is out of pellets, but if the heat sensor all of a sudden thought it was attached to a cold stove, it might think the stove was out. You might want to check the thermocouple and its connections.
I have been pming and talking to a representative of the stove company about this trouble...following his lead....will ask him about the thermocouple
Well, if that's correct, we may have found the problem. The auger motor on a 10-cpm is supposed to run at 2 - 2.4 RPM.
Did you ever change it?
No, that is for the stirrer motor if you read the description. Look at the bottom of the parts page, or your own owners manual in the parts section. 2.4 RPM
You need to determine if it's the wrong motor (see if the part number is on it and cross reference the # in the owners manual), or if it's just bad. Is it still under warranty?
You could do a temporary "fix" by turning the LFF way up to 7, 8, or maybe even 9 until you contact Englander for a replacement.
You could do a temporary "fix" by turning the LFF way up to 7, 8, or maybe even 9 until you contact Englander for a replacement.
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