Sears Craftsman LT1000 mower deck shabby again! Prep for spring?

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Feb 1, 2010
9,132
Salem NH
Hello
Did this 3 years ago so a little easier this time. See
First try 5 years ago:)
I started getting ready for spring by removing the snow blower attachment and get ready to put the mower deck on the tractor but the 20-1/2 year old hunk of metal mower deck was shabby again! So I removed the cutter blades and wire wheeled the dry hunks of grass away on the bottom. Cleaned it with Acetone and sprayed it with Dry Moly to keep the new grass from sticking. Then wire wheeled the top, cleaned with Acetone and sprayed it with Satin Black high temp enamel spray paint. When the new blades come in, I will throw them on. Blades from SearsDirect only $13.64 each. Not bad?
Is your mower ready for this season?

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Sears Craftsman LT1000 mower deck shabby again! Prep for spring?
 
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i do the cleaning and main at the end of the season instead of letting all the dirt and crap sit their all winter causing more rust.. Give it a good soaking of wd40 and its ready for the next season..
Actually had to cut my grass yesterday about 1-2 months ahead of schedule
 
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i do the cleaning and main at the end of the season instead of letting all the dirt and crap sit their all winter causing more rust.. Give it a good soaking of wd40 and its ready for the next season..
Actually had to cut my grass yesterday about 1-2 months ahead of schedule
That's the best time. We're on our 3d mowing here and the mower only wishes it got this good treatment.
 
LT1000 owner here and I must applaud your effort at maintaining yours! That is very impressive. Sadly I've never done any of that. My current issues - actually for several years now - is uneven cutting. I'm sure I've caused most of it from bending a blade here and there from contacting stumps. But I can't help but think there is some additional kind of leveling that I can check assuming I straighten or replace the bent blade. But when I look at the way it hangs there simply seems to be those rods that fit in certain holes and mine all are using the same hole. Any suggestions?

By the way - maybe a better blade deal (w/ free shipping too) https://www.ebay.com/itm/392332454532
 
@wahoowad Not sure about that mower, but you are probably out of level front to back. If so, you’ll have two narrow strips of uncut grass on a three blade mower, or one narrow strip of uncut grass on a two blade mower. There should be one rod the will adjust the pitch.
 
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LT1000 owner here and I must applaud your effort at maintaining yours! That is very impressive. Sadly I've never done any of that. My current issues - actually for several years now - is uneven cutting. I'm sure I've caused most of it from bending a blade here and there from contacting stumps. But I can't help but think there is some additional kind of leveling that I can check assuming I straighten or replace the bent blade. But when I look at the way it hangs there simply seems to be those rods that fit in certain holes and mine all are using the same hole. Any suggestions?

By the way - maybe a better blade deal (w/ free shipping too) https://www.ebay.com/itm/392332454532
Hello
I found I have the same problem! The blade that was bent is on the lower side. I tried in vane to adjust the bolt on the rod up to level it but the bolt is frozen solid. Even my impact could not break it loose! Therefore I ordered a new set of “Lift Links” on Amazon. There is a left and a right so I just ordered a new pair for about $18 and they should arrive today. I also had a front wheel on the same side with a slow leak! That surely made it worse! So I had a tube installed and will replace the lift links before I use the mower for sure!

Sears Craftsman LT1000 mower deck shabby again! Prep for spring?
 
Got the new set of lift link rods but the vibration can really make it loose and get uneven again so this time I will add some stainless steel lock washers!!
Also I am spraying the threads with dry moly so the nuts will not get frozen again!!
So sitting in the drivers seat, the silver lift link rod is the LH side and the black lift link rod is the RH side. :)

7574D9C5-990E-4E94-8EE7-EF56261A81DC.jpeg


426B40EF-2CB5-449B-8557-1D88149C587F.jpeg
 
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It is all installed and it is easy peasy to level the deck up now with a 9/16” ratchet wrench. :)
Pic 1 is the old lift link rods with the frozen solid nuts.
Sears Craftsman LT1000 mower deck shabby again! Prep for spring?Sears Craftsman LT1000 mower deck shabby again! Prep for spring?Sears Craftsman LT1000 mower deck shabby again! Prep for spring?
 
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I'll have to go look at things again. I just didn't recognize that as the adjustment. In my case I know I have a bent blade and just haven't had time to go remove it and try to bend it back into shape (or replace). It's close enough and the uneven cut on my grass goes away quickly with the spring rains and grass growing so quick.
 
Hello
Yes, those small nuts are the height adjustment but mine froze up so bad even the impact wrench could not budge them. The new lift links are made better and stronger so easy to turn them now.
I could see one side of the deck was low when I put the tractor on the flat garage floor. :)
 
I've got the same mower, purchased from my late neighbor's estate in 2019. My neighbor bought it new in 2015 I think, when he was around 96 or 97. His caretaker and I used it mostly, but he did once or twice.

It has the 420cc engine. Lately when the belt is engaged, and especially going uphill, it runs rough as if it's about to stall. The blades seem to move freely, I lubricated around the spindles anyway, cleared typical leaves and grass. I replaced the blades last year. I cleaned the relatively clean air filter and sprayed carburetor cleaner. It was quite low on oil once, maybe that did some damage.
 
I've got the same mower, purchased from my late neighbor's estate in 2019. My neighbor bought it new in 2015 I think, when he was around 96 or 97. His caretaker and I used it mostly, but he did once or twice.

It has the 420cc engine. Lately when the belt is engaged, and especially going uphill, it runs rough as if it's about to stall. The blades seem to move freely, I lubricated around the spindles anyway, cleared typical leaves and grass. I replaced the blades last year. I cleaned the relatively clean air filter and sprayed carburetor cleaner. It was quite low on oil once, maybe that did some damage.
Since the gas tank is gravity feed, I found if the tank is low on gas it will run rough and stall, especially on a hill. So check that first. :)
 
Since the gas tank is gravity feed, I found if the tank is low on gas it will run rough and stall, especially on a hill. So check that first. :)
Plenty of gas, but good to note for reference, thanks. Speaking of fuel, I wonder if a fuel filter due for replacement could cause that?
 
Plenty of gas, but good to note for reference, thanks. Speaking of fuel, I wonder if a fuel filter due for replacement could cause that?
Yes it certainly can. Also check the air filter.
I got a tuneup kit for my Sears LT1000 on Amazon cheap. They vary in price for the engine you have because the shape of the air filter varies.
Here is the one I got for the 17 HP Kholer engine.
 
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Yes it certainly can. Also check the air filter.
I got a tuneup kit for my Sears LT1000 on Amazon cheap. They vary in price for the engine you have because the shape of the air filter varies.
Here is the one I got for the 17 HP Kholer engine....
Looks like you get a lot for your money with a kit, and it's the Amazon price advantage. Correction, my mower is a T1000, one cylinder 420cc engine. Looks like fuel filters are universal for the most part. I did clean off the air filter's foam-like cover, The rest looks good, but if I see one in stock I'll probably buy one.
 
Plenty of gas, but good to note for reference, thanks. Speaking of fuel, I wonder if a fuel filter due for replacement could cause that?
That's a cheap and easy thing to check. Another thing to try, open the gas fill cap. If that fixes the issue, it could be that the tiny venting hole in the cap is getting plugged or the flap rubber has become flacid. Our LT2000 had this issue until I replaced the gas fill cap.
 
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That's a cheap and easy thing to check. Another thing to try, open the gas fill cap. If that fixes the issue, it could be that the tiny venting hole in the cap is getting plugged or the flap rubber has become flacid. Our LT2000 had this issue until I replaced the gas fill cap.
So noted re: the gas cap. Got the new spark plug in, a bit of white smoke upon startup which is a concern. Oil level is good, not overfilled.
If it wasn't pouring rain I'd take it for a test drive. I really need to always wear glasses on when doing things like this, the hardest part was lining up two screw holes for a shield to go back in place. Would have saved several minutes.

Being the 'green' one that I am - how would one recycle a spark plug... if at all? I never feel right putting anything metal in regular trash.
 
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Check with the local garages and see if they have a metals recycling bin.
 
Good idea re: a metals recycling bin. Replaced the spark plug. While doing so noticed some leaves and insulation like material under the engine cover, Took the cover off - a huge mouse nest. It seemed to be running hotter lately, that could be why. Still ran the same after removing the nest and replacing the spark plug. Didn't stall, but felt like it was going to uphill. The engine seems normal without the blades engaged, but does seems to have a very occasional skip, or miss that may isn't typical.

That's it for now. Thanks for the tips.
 
If you are running standard ethanol gas the carbs get crudded up setting around all winter. with age various parts of the carb degrade over time, like the needle valve in the float bowl which is your main pick up for fuel. there is a tiny tiny cross hole in the pick up tube, those get plugged up, stick pin or sewing needle of appropriate size to reopen it. On a lot of carbs there is a fine mesh screen behind the fuel connection that likes to get gummed up also it is inside the carb. a good blast of carb cleaner mostly takes care of that one. Depending on the age the fueline itself degrades and starts to collaspe with suction or in some cases just starts rotting away from inside out, plugging up the works with crud. any of these or combination there of will cause various running problems.
 
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Here is my carburetor change info.
 
Good information re: the carburetor causing symptoms, and the rebuild. I recall years ago cleaning the carburetor of my Ariens snowblower I was amazed after dropping and losing a very small component, maybe a float? - that I was able to find it.

Ever since then I'd either run or drain the gas dry at the end of the cold season.
 
running dry helps a bit,but the residuals of ethanol are still there and that is what gums up the works.