Here are photos of storage racks I built of "treated" lumber for seasoning/storing firewood. All racks have the same basic construction with any differences being in the "longer" or "taller categories. The width of the bottom structure is the same 14" for all indoor and outdoor racks. Note that all the outdoor racks are 5' or 6' singles screwed and/or strapped together for stability. Only screws are used for fasteners.
My experience has been that any racks 4' or LOWER in height can stand alone and do not need doubling-up for stability. However, when the racks are 5' or higher they can become dangerously unstable because a 5' rack is usually stacked to a height of 6' or more. My 6' racks are stacked to 7' or higher. At this height they definitely need doubling-up for safety. Once screwed and "strapped" together they become very stable.
A couple of comments about the indoor racks on casters. 1) The casters must be outside the width of the rack. I learned this the hard way. Note the photos; 2) All casters must be ball bearing unless you are a gorilla; 3) Each rack has two swivel casters on one end and two non-swivel casters on the other end; 4) Racks 4' or shorter should have minimum 4" casters unless you are a gorilla. Racks in the 8' long range must have minimum 5" casters unless you are a gorilla; 5) I prefer the casters with a polyurethane rolling surface; 6) Build the vertical wood holding part of the rack no higher than 5' for stability and ease of loading and unloading wood; 7) Indoor racks can be constructed of standard (non-treated) lumber; 8) Do not place any longitudinal boards on the top sides of the 4' and 5' high racks because you will bang your forehead on them. Guess how I discovered that little factoid; 9) Be very careful where you place the pairs of casters on the racks. The closer the pairs of casters are together, the easier it is to move and steer the rack. However, if you place the pairs of casters too close together, and you unload much of the firewood from one end of the rack, the rack will suddenly and violently tip to the other end, destroying anything and ANYONE in its path. Please don't ask how I discovered this little factoid; 10) I found the best caster placement to be about 1/8 of the way in from each end on 4' - 5' long racks and about 1/6 of the way in from the end on 8' long racks. The casters are a bit too close together on my 6' long rack and about right on the 8'long rack; 11) The 45 deg braces must extend a minimum of half way up the vertical end pieces. 2/3 of the way up is even better.
One picture is worth a thousand words so see below. I humbly hope some of this proves somewhat helpful to those who are contemplating building storage racks.
Best Wishes,
John_M
My experience has been that any racks 4' or LOWER in height can stand alone and do not need doubling-up for stability. However, when the racks are 5' or higher they can become dangerously unstable because a 5' rack is usually stacked to a height of 6' or more. My 6' racks are stacked to 7' or higher. At this height they definitely need doubling-up for safety. Once screwed and "strapped" together they become very stable.
A couple of comments about the indoor racks on casters. 1) The casters must be outside the width of the rack. I learned this the hard way. Note the photos; 2) All casters must be ball bearing unless you are a gorilla; 3) Each rack has two swivel casters on one end and two non-swivel casters on the other end; 4) Racks 4' or shorter should have minimum 4" casters unless you are a gorilla. Racks in the 8' long range must have minimum 5" casters unless you are a gorilla; 5) I prefer the casters with a polyurethane rolling surface; 6) Build the vertical wood holding part of the rack no higher than 5' for stability and ease of loading and unloading wood; 7) Indoor racks can be constructed of standard (non-treated) lumber; 8) Do not place any longitudinal boards on the top sides of the 4' and 5' high racks because you will bang your forehead on them. Guess how I discovered that little factoid; 9) Be very careful where you place the pairs of casters on the racks. The closer the pairs of casters are together, the easier it is to move and steer the rack. However, if you place the pairs of casters too close together, and you unload much of the firewood from one end of the rack, the rack will suddenly and violently tip to the other end, destroying anything and ANYONE in its path. Please don't ask how I discovered this little factoid; 10) I found the best caster placement to be about 1/8 of the way in from each end on 4' - 5' long racks and about 1/6 of the way in from the end on 8' long racks. The casters are a bit too close together on my 6' long rack and about right on the 8'long rack; 11) The 45 deg braces must extend a minimum of half way up the vertical end pieces. 2/3 of the way up is even better.
One picture is worth a thousand words so see below. I humbly hope some of this proves somewhat helpful to those who are contemplating building storage racks.
Best Wishes,
John_M