Wood burner help

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Codybuchko92

New Member
Feb 22, 2025
1
Pennsylvania
Hello everyone, I am new to using a wood burning stove/ furnace and could use some help. I recently acquired a harman dual fuel stove with a fire box size of 29x19 with a hight of 24in from grate to top of box. I intend to pipe this into my air duct to heat my 1800sqft home. This burner does not have any tag on it with the serial number or model number and I feel like it's missing parts because all the photos I've seen of the different models shows an automatic draft control on the ash box and mine does not. But that's me going off of legacy stove pictures which looks identical to the harman stove I have.

Now today was the first day I tried to get it up and running just to see if the thermo Stat work and the blower worked the way it's supposed too and once the box temp hits the 150 of which the thermostat was set to the fan kicked on but it stayed on the whole time and never shut off from 2pm until the fire completely went out and I had 1 semiburnt log and and a couple of coals left. And to get the logs to burn at all I had to keep the ash door open about 1in and the 2 door vent wide open. If I shut the ash door and just used the door vent the fire will go out even after burning for 2hours . Now I will admit my wood is not seasoned but my flue is is 7in and my stack is 6in. And I know the rule of thumb is the stack should be the same size as flue and no more than 2in bigger but the 6in pipe was already installed by the previous owners and was told it should work but I think that may be one of my issues with having to keep the ash door open to keep the fire going but I have to try and make that work for the time being until I can replace the stack.

But if anyone can help with atleast helping with identifying what model I have so I could maybe buy the correct/missing items I need to help rectify the above issues I'm having it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The stack issue is of less concern. Unseasoned wood will mess up any wood burner. Try with some seasoned wood.
 
No help from here on the ID, etc, but the fire issue is almost certainly cause by wet (internally) wood.
The gold standard for people heating their homes with wood is to have it CSS'd (cut, split, stacked) for 3 years (ideally top covered, with the sides open for air flow) that almost certainly will give you a nice clean burn, no matter the species of wood. Oak is one that can take 3 years to be ready...but even the fastest drying woods need a year CSS'd.
Get an inexpensive firewood moisture meter, grab some wood (after it warms up to room temp, which can take a day or so) split it open, push the testers pins in to the middle of the freshly exposed faces, preferably parallel with the wood grain...you'll want to see 15-20%. Testing on the outside of the wood, or on the end, is meaningless.
 
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Oh, and that being a "dual fuel" model, generally means that they don't burn either very well/efficiently.
If it turns out there are parts missing on your furnace, you might want to save yourself a lot of headache and replace it with something more modern (and not one from a farm or big box store!) And I'd get that wiring straightened up, looks a little sketchy now...this machine is after all meant to contain/control fire, inside the home where you and your family live, and sleep.
 
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