Will wood stove save me money

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That's from the PE Super's listing label:
"INSTALL AND USE ONLY IN MASONRY OR FACTORY BUILT FIREPLACE."
Apparently you don't trust the testing procedure from ANY insert manufacturer that allows installation of their units into a ZC fireplace? I am pretty sure those testings have to be done from independent labs and I doubt that manufacturers can really just write what they want on that label then.
 
If it directly contradicts the instructions and ul listing of the unit they are being installed in then no i don"t. And do you not see where they say that it can be installed in a masonry fireplace with or without a direct flue connection? Or where it can be installed with just a direct connect to the zc fireplace chimney? How is that in any way to any code?
 
And does anyone know where i can find a copy of ul-1482 Because from what i can tell from what i have found there is nothing in it about inserts in a prefab unit. But i cany find a full copy of the listing
 
That's from the PE Super's listing label:
"INSTALL AND USE ONLY IN MASONRY OR FACTORY BUILT FIREPLACE."
Apparently you don't trust the testing procedure from ANY insert manufacturer that allows installation of their units into a ZC fireplace? I am pretty sure those testings have to be done from independent labs and I doubt that manufacturers can really just write what they want on that label then.
There are inserts even by Travis that are strictly limited to masonry fireplaces. This implies that they are going by testing standards to confirm safe installation. But it's better to hear it from the horse's mouth.
 
the reason I suggested a small cat stove like the Woodstock Keystone. With that stove you can turn the air down more which will give you a more even heat output and longer burn times than with a secondary burn stove like the H2100. You are less likely to sweat in the evening but then wake up to a cold house in the morning. Whether you feel that convenience is worth the extra money is up to you.

Thank you for that info Grisu, I will keep it in mind if or when our stove goes out and we go looking for another. I pick and choose the wood I use to control the burn now, as you probably know. We have a nice assortment of aged soft and hard woods. Plus instruction on here and time/experience itself to "massage" the stove. Our winters are fairly mild here (relative) so that helps us. I'm thinking a cat stove is more for places with coldest winters? Is that right?
 
Cat stoves are great for mild climates. That's where their ability to burn low and slow really shines. Once it is very cold outside and the stove is being pushed, the difference between cat and non-cat diminishes.
 
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Thank you for that info Grisu, I will keep it in mind if or when our stove goes out and we go looking for another. I pick and choose the wood I use to control the burn now, as you probably know. We have a nice assortment of aged soft and hard woods. Plus instruction on here and time/experience itself to "massage" the stove. Our winters are fairly mild here (relative) so that helps us. I'm thinking a cat stove is more for places with coldest winters? Is that right?

Quite the opposite; a good cat stove is a great solution when a low, steady heat output is desired like in a mild climate or a well-insulated house. A cat stove already burns efficiently and clean at very low air settings. With the air on low but the catalyst in the active range the stove will not get as hot and has therefore a lower heat output. It can still by filled full with wood which will give you a long burn time. A secondary burn stove like you have needs to reach a high enough temperature in order to burn clean and efficient. When you fill such a stove with dry wood it pretty much always will get hot and give you a lot of heat at the early stages of the burn before tapering out at later stages. If you run it too cool you will get smoke and incomplete combustion. To run a secondary burn stove "on low" usually means to load less wood and make small but hot fires. At the end that will mean more work for the operator.
 
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I wish I had found this site before we purchased our stove. But at least now I know. Thank you both.
 
Yaa i dont plan to actually get into the cutting my own trees and and splitting the wood but i will be payig about 200 per cord of pure oak that has been seasoned for 1 year. my parents have older style wood burning stove and they use this wood and it seems to get very hot. i just hope the stove i get will heat my whole house

Hi Sega,

Just to pick up on this point, you may need to season your wood a bit longer if it's oak. 2-3 years is standard for most members here, but maybe you can get away with less if it's seasoned in desert air? New style stoves need very dry wood to burn properly.
 
Softwoods are easier to dry - a year or probably you could squeak by with less in the desert I would think.
 
Does it really matter too much which wood I burb soft or hard what are the pros and cons thanks

It doesnt really matter except that hardwoods generally are denser, this means there are more BTUs per volume, The heavier the wood the more heat it holds, as long as they are both at the same moisture content. It is common to burn soft woods in the early and late parts of the burning season and the higher btu hardwoods at the coldest parts in the middle.

Definitions ;

hardwood - the wood from a broadleaved tree (such as oak, ash, or beech) as distinguished from that of conifers.

softwood - the wood from a conifer (such as pine, fir, or spruce) as distinguished from that of broadleaved trees.

Soooo, hardwood is the wood from a tree that shed's its broad leaves yearly.
 
wow....really beating this to death...

To the op I have the Hampton hi300, the same as the regency, Its a great stove throws off alot of heat. I think you will be happy and 3600 insatlled is not bad
 
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