whitfield prodigy 1 WP3 restistor value,

[hirst689]

I have a Whitfield Prodigy WP3 with a ssac controller. It bit the dust this weekend, while I was investigating the issue I found a large wire wound resistor had burnt out.
The resistor sits between the live feed to the exhaust fan and I think is part of a two speed setup. I have searched and I have been unable to find any reference to this part.
Does anyone know the resistance of the resistor, I found some at Digikey with the same physical size but I do not know the resistance to use.

Any help would be appreciated

 

[Heatsource]

no, but you could try calling lennox, 800-655-2008

 

[hirst689]

Thanks for the number, I called and was told the part is deactivated. I did find out that it was a 15 Ohm resistor.
With a little searching I found that Digikey carries an Ohmite resistor of the same physical size and resistance
there part number is below. I am going to give this a go, no guarantees though.

Digi-Key Part Number L25J15RE-ND
Price Break Unit Price Extended Price
1 5.99000 5.99

Quantity Available 9
Manufacturer Ohmite
Manufacturer Part Number L25J15RE
Description RESISTOR 25W 15 OHMS 5%
Lead Free Status / RoHS Status Lead free / RoHS Complian

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Just looking through the copy of the factory manual I have (had been marked up by a tech)
The resistor in the booster motor circuit is marked and circled "REMOVE"

The later stoves with the SSAC board do not use the resistor.

This may have been used as a slight speed control.

Try running things without the resistor, it should be fine.

My Prodigy does not have that resistor.

What is the serial number ???

The exhaust fan will work fine running at full speed.

Snowy

 

[hirst689]

Hi Snowy Rivers
do you happen to have the circuit diagram available in an electronic format, I would like to know a little more about the thing without reverse engineering it.
Thanks for your help

 

[slls]

A resistor sometimes acts like a fuse.

 

[hirst689]

Thanks slls

My next move is to check out the fan motor to see if this is why the resistor (fuse) blew.
I also ordered 2 parts from Digikey just in case I toasted another one.
This is also why i am looking for the circuit diagram, to avoid problem.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

The schematic I have shows very little other than the wire routing. It does not show the inner working of the control board.

Hook your exhaust fan up direct to a 120V source and see how it works.

The Prodigy uses the room air fan as a primary combustion aid too.

The power is run through a Triac to control the fan speed in relation to the feed rate.

The higher the feed rate the faster the fan runs.

The exhaust fan can run at full speed.

 

[hirst689]

Thank Snowy Rivers. I will give it a go this weekend..

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Looking forward to hearing the results

Snowy

 

[hirst689]

The story so far, as slls suggested the resistor did act as a fuse, the exhaust motor was shot.
I managed to get another one built, so I am ok on that front, however things are not well.

I was checking ball the wiring and notice that some of the wire seemed to be going to terminals other than the ones that their tags suggested.
Can someone confirm that the terminal block is numbered from left to right 1,2,3 etc. And if the labeled cable do go to the corresponding terminal

Thanks

 

[Snowy Rivers]

I will copy my schematic and post it in a while.

There are two different ones and you can decide which one applies.

Snowy

 

[hirst689]

Hi Snowy river

Thanks, I think my control board has suffered. I am tracing things out right now.
No Fans or auger at this time.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Here is the schematic for the Prodigy 2

If your board is toast and all the individual components (fans,auger) work then I would say to follow my schematic that I posted here a while back and get the timer relays from Precision timer co and completely rewire the little beast.

You can run the exhaust fan at line voltage right off of a master power switch and control the combination room air combustion fan with a triac fan speed controller (Casablanca fan control)

The timers can be set to give you feed times of from .5 to 2 seconds and off time (heat setting) from 10 seconds of auger off to 2 seconds of auger off time.

Once complete, the system is really pretty bomb proof.

The timers are very tough. The triac fan controller is a hardware store item.

Good luck

snowy

 

[hirst689]

Thanks Snowy,

Definitely something got trashed on the controller, If I short the triacs the fans and auger motors all spin up.
The logic has 5vdc and the relay has 24vdc. Both gates on the triacs are above 4vdc.
Still poking around for the failure, cannot find the data sheet for the ZN410E ( motor speed control ).
The trouble with this thing is that parts are hot all the time. You have to be careful!


let you know what I find next.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

The sad part of all this stuff (On the board) is that it was a custom job that was done for Whitfield and in most cases not an off the shelf item.

I poked around for a week or better looking for parts to fox mine, and finally said to heck with it, and sat down and designed my own controls using easy to buy off the shelf parts.

The timers I used are as follows
644B-GR5 one shot timer (used to power around the low temp snap switch until it warms up)

646B-P15RO Cylce timer (controls the on off times on the auger)

A standard Casa Blanca fan controller to handle the room air/comb fan

Wired the booster up direct to a main on off switch.

The auger and the room air/combi fan run through the door switch as it was originally

The high temp snaps Im replaced with a pair of manually resetable snaps (have button)

If either of these trip it shuts the entire shee bang off, as I wired the main feed through them to be extra safe.

The originals would allow power back on after a cool down.

To get a lockout relay (keeps power off in the event of outage and require a reset be pushed) I used the one shot timer similar to the one above but with spades for a remote pot.
Just leave the spades open and the timer will stay in indefinately until the power is removed, then you must press a momentary switch to reset.

Precision timer company http://www.precisiontimer.com/

Good luck and keep us posted

 

[hirst689]

Hi Snowy,
I guess the theory of operation is quite straight forward,
The blower runs when switched on, to fan only or auger/fan or the low limit is close,
The auger is pulsed at a set period but pulse length increases for higher feed rates.
Everything stops when the door is opened.
Auger stops if high limit trips.
Should be able to do all this with a Microchip PIC and a couple of TRIACS.

I will keep you updated

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Yup, that will work

The time sequence is as follows

The auger on time is always between 1.5 and 2 seconds
The off time is the heat range

10 seconds off on the low setting
7 seconds off on 2
5 seconds off on 3
3 seconds off on 4
2 seconds off on 5

The on time needs to be adjustable so that you can tweek the individual stove to get the best burn.

Have fun

Snowy

 

[hirst689]

once again Snowy Rivers come through with great information

thanks

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Good luck with your little Prodigy 2

These are a great "Little stove", sure like ours.

Its the perfect size during the shoulder seasons when we don,t need a lot of heat, and a great helper to the Advantage during the cold cold times when the one stove is just not enough.

The design on the Prodigy 2 is shall we say, unique, in the way they use the room air fan as a combustion fan too.

The added booster fan in the exhaust housing made these stoves able to use a direct vent.

The Prodigy 1 was not useable with anything but a standard "tall" chimney as the thing could not draft.

Snowy

 

[stellep]

hirst689. Any chance you could post some pics of your progress? That would be fantastic. Snowy, I know folks would love to see some pics of your setup as well. I certainly would.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Somewhere around here, I have a couple piccy's of the original "Mock Up" that I did when I bought the timers and was designing the new system.

I will see if I can locate them and post them.

I had the timers fastened to a piece of plywood and the auger, and fans were represented by some little light bulbs that I wired in.

Getting fans to run is a simple task, just wanted to test out the timers to make sure that the whole design was going to work as planned.

It did.

My system takes a little more thinking than the factory controls, but was CHEAP to build and very durable.

Mine has a separate fan speed controller for the draft fan and the room air fan. The room air fan is normally adjusted to a sweet spot where it does not HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
The draft fan can run at near full speed and be quite happy.

The on time on the auger timer is adjusted via a pot on the timer itself and the "Heat setting" which is the off time, is adjusted with a remote pot thats mounted in the control panel.

I have a master switch that turns on power to the entire stove, and feeds the draft fan as soon as the switch is flipped on. The room air fan is also fed off this, through the Triac.

The power feeds through to the timers and then to the auger motor with a switch in that path to allow the feed to be shut off, allowing the fire to die out.

The high temp (overfire snaps) are are wired into the primary side after the main switch and before the main "L1" Buss bar.

The fuse is between the line in and the main switch to kill everything in the even of any mishaps.

The low temp switch is in the auger circuit as is the pressure switch.

Too many controls have been eliminated in the new stoves and placed in the logic of the board.

I prefer to have complete control of the entire process.

I can shut the fuel off for a few minutes and allow the fire to die out, then give the pot a quicky swish to clear the clinkers and then flip the fuel back on anf go again.

I can keep the room air fan off while I am lighting the fire, as I have the door open and use a propane torch.

Having the blower on blows cold air and and also can stir up ash and make a mess with the door open.

The draft fan is always on when the main is turned on.

In the real world I wired in a snap switch that when the stove heats up, it closes and puts power to the triac and brings the room air fan on.

This takes care of forgettting to turn it on and having the stove overheat.

Was a work in progress.

Still is

Snowy

 

[stellep]

Thanks for the details Snowy. I know I have one of these mods in my future.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Take pix and keep us posted

Snowy

 

[hirst689]

here is page two