Which new stove would you buy today?

[Grizzly Gamon]

Hey gang - calling in the experts to make sure I've covered all my bases.

We are starting demo on our fireplace this week. Tearing out our pre-fab gas fireplace, having a mason install new cultured/manufactured stone, and setting a new free standing wood stove.

We are trying to narrow down our options and what to go with. We want to take advantage of the 30% tax credit that is out there.

So far we have looked at the Jotul Oslo F500, Hearthstone Manchester, and Vermont Castings Encore - all brand new. We've ruled out the Encore just due to the horror stories we've read on here and the potential of it being finicky.

We'd like to stay something classic looking as it's going in a mountain home here in Colorado at 8,300 ft. We like the look of the three mentioned stoves above. Looking to heat roughly in that 2,200 sq ft realm on the upper level ouf our 'raised ranch' or bi-level home as some would call it. We will be venting in 6" pipe through the chimney and up about 16-18ft vertical. We will be going straight back off the stove into the wall, connected to a tee, then straight up.

Are there any stoves that you would recommend? I hear a lot of people mentioning Blaze King, Woodstock Soapstone, Pacific Energy, Regency, etc. We are definitely trying to stay with a certain aesthetic - so we are open to whatever fits that criteria.

Here is a picture of our existing area, the chimney, and an example of how we would essentially set up our new stove venting straight into the wall/chimney.

Thanks

 

[stoveliker]

16-18 ft with elbows at 8000+ ft is too short for many stoves.

Get the easiest breathing one.
That's for sure not the BK.

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

16-18 ft with elbows at 8000+ ft is too short for many stoves.

Get the easiest breathing one.
That's for sure not the BK.

Interesting outlook. I wondered how altitude would play a factor in stove selection.

There are many stores up here and they have been selling these brands for years. I will ask around to see if anyone has encountered problems at our altitudes.

What is considered an easy breathing stove in your opinion? I'm all ears!

 

[stoveliker]

Altitude diminishes draft, as do elbows etc.
As a result, the minimum flue height (often 15 ft) has to be increased when elbows, horizontal section, and altitude is present.

I know Drolet/Osburn, and PE are fairly easy breathing. @begreen will know more brands that may work.


See e.g. the BK manual page about this:

View attachment Screenshot_20241014-125125.webp

 

[stoveliker]

Is that class A in the chimney chase?

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

My Kuma is an easy breather. Not sure if it's your style but they are made in Idaho so they deal with elevation there.

 

[Duds13]

Can we discuss this while drinking some of that awesome bourbon collection?

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

Can we discuss this while drinking some of that awesome bourbon collection?

I would love that!

 

[Duds13]

I would love that!

Yeah me too! lol

There are many many others on this site who are more qualified for stove advice so I will leave that to them. Didn't mean to hijack the thread but the bourbon is amazing

 

[kennyp2339]

I believe every 90 deg elbow is like taking 3ft off of the total chimney height, the T 90 should be ok at 18ft total length if you use 45 deg elbows going to the T from the stove top, so like 18" black pipe from stove collar to 45 deg elbow 6" black pipe to another 45 deg elbow then into the T, this will reduce the smoke turbulence so you reduce the risk of smoke roll back when the door is open for loading and overall performance.

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

I believe every 90 deg elbow is like taking 3ft off of the total chimney height, the T 90 should be ok at 18ft total length if you use 45 deg elbows going to the T from the stove top, so like 18" black pipe from stove collar to 45 deg elbow 6" black pipe to another 45 deg elbow then into the T, this will reduce the smoke turbulence so you reduce the risk of smoke roll back when the door is open for loading and overall performance.

Yea, I suspect there will only be 1 tee. It will be the clean out tee. So I picture the venting coming right out the back of the stove (probably 3ft or so?), connected to the tee, then straight up which is a out 16-18ft.

We considered an alcove so the stove would be slightly recessed, but the venting would be straight vertical. It's just more expensive to have our mason do that. :/

 

[ABMax24]

Just curious why/if you've ruled out a zero clearance fireplace? To me it's a shame to close in that beautiful opening and place a wood stove in front of it.

Osburn makes some nice ZC's off the top of my head.

 

[begreen]

We considered an alcove so the stove would be slightly recessed, but the venting would be straight vertical. It's just more expensive to have our mason do that. :/

Skip the cleanout tee and go straight vertical up 18'. That will improve options. The Manchester and Encore like a fairly strong draft. I'm not sure about the F500v3's draft tolerance. There are easier breathing stoves, but some just miss the tax credit.

How open is the floorplan? How large of an area will the stove be heating?

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

Just curious why/if you've ruled out a zero clearance fireplace? To me it's a shame to close in that beautiful opening and place a wood stove in front of it.

Osburn makes some nice ZC's off the top of my head.

I think we just feel that a free standing stove will disperse heat better, easier to service, or replace down the road. We were going to extend the hearth a tad, in the center area to give the stove the clearances it needs.

I do like the look of the zero clearance fireplaces, but I just feel like they are much more involved. Maybe they require more clearances with our pre-fab chimney etc. And our existing fire box size etc. At least that's what I kind of remember when we briefly looked at them.

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

Skip the cleanout tee and go straight vertical up 18'. That will improve options. The Manchester and Encore like a fairly strong draft. I'm not sure about the F500v3's draft tolerance. There are easier breathing stoves, but some just miss the tax credit.

How open is the floorplan? How large of an area will the stove be heating?

It's a fairly open floor plan. Vaulted ceilings with the peak being 12ft. Pictures below.

Our initial plan was to do an alcove for aesthetics - I guess we can talk to the mason again and tell him we'd like to go that route like the original idea.

I just didn't care for the additional cost, and the potential thought of the stove being recessed and not dispersing heat as well. Hmm.

 

[stoveliker]

I believe every 90 deg elbow is like taking 3ft off of the total chimney height, the T 90 should be ok at 18ft total length if you use 45 deg elbows going to the T from the stove top, so like 18" black pipe from stove collar to 45 deg elbow 6" black pipe to another 45 deg elbow then into the T, this will reduce the smoke turbulence so you reduce the risk of smoke roll back when the door is open for loading and overall performance.

A 90 is 2 ft extra. A T 3 ft, and for every ft horizontal, add 2 ft. And 1 ft per 2000 ft altitude above sea level.
See the screenshot I posted above.

 

[stoveliker]

So a 90 + 1 ft horizontal + a T + 8000 ft -> BK would recommend 15 +2+2+3+4=26 ft.
I do think that's overkill, but I do think 18 ft is too short for stoves with higher impedance at that altitude.

Anyway, I killed BK here (unless you add ,class A on top of the chase.... Always a possibility), but there are enough solid alternatives.

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

Is that class A in the chimney chase?

I believe it is. They are tearing out whatever is in there now, and then running new 6" double wall I believe he said.

 

[stoveliker]

Double wall is generally stove pipe, which should not be run in there (stove pipe is only for what you can see until the first wall or ceiling).it should be class A or, it it's a masonry chimney covered in siding,then a (insulated) liner should be put in.

Is there masonry in there or is it a hollow chase with a pipe?

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

Double wall is generally stove pipe, which should not be run in there (stove pipe is only for what you can see until the first wall or ceiling).it should be class A or, it it's a masonry chimney covered in siding,then a (insulated) liner should be put in.

Is there masonry in there or is it a hollow chase with a pipe?

Just clarified with him. Yep, using Class A up the chimney!

 

[stoveliker]

Why does it need to be replaced (with new class A)?

It's easy to extend though, if that later turns out to be needed.

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

Why does it need to be replaced (with new class A)?

It's easy to extend though, if that later turns out to be needed.

I think what you are seeing is 2 different exhaust vents coming out of the chimney.

The one is for the pre fab gas fireplace which we are ripping out entirely and replacing with the stove mentioned in this conversation.

There is another vent you see that is actually from an existing stove that was in the basement, that is no longer there anymore, but the venting is.

 

[begreen]

Our initial plan was to do an alcove for aesthetics - I guess we can talk to the mason again and tell him we'd like to go that route like the original idea.
I just didn't care for the additional cost, and the potential thought of the stove being recessed and not dispersing heat as well. Hmm.

It looks like a large stove would work for this area. However, the requirements for putting a freestanding stove into an alcove are very strict. It's very unlikely that this would be possible if the intent is to keep the stone facade and build an alcove into the opening. If the alcove is wide enough, it may be possible to utilize the chase bump out to recess the stove on an open hearth, but the alcove height minimum may end up at 7'. The alcove side, back, and top clearance requirements will depend on the stove choice.

How wide is the chase outside for the current ZC fireplace?

 

[Grizzly Gamon]

It looks like a large stove would work for this area. However, the requirements for putting a freestanding stove into an alcove are very strict. It's very unlikely that this would be possible if the intent is to keep the stone facade and build an alcove into the opening. If the alcove is wide enough, it may be possible to utilize the chase bump out to recess the stove on an open hearth, but the alcove height minimum may end up at 7'. The alcove side, back, and top clearance requirements will depend on the stove choice.

How wide is the chase outside for the current ZC fireplace?

I will measure when I get home this evening - but it's pretty wide, probably 5ft or so.

I'm still pretty certain we are not going to do an alcove. I'd rather just do a flat wall, put the stove on the hearth (extended slightly with a 3-5 sided area in the center) and either do a top vent or rear vent depending.

My gut is telling me to do something very similar to this. I know it would use (2) 90deg elbows, but its either that or venting straight out the back and into a tee (still an elbow) and then shooting straight up. Either way has it's downfalls so to speak.

At least if I vent out the top - I'm not limited to a stove that 'has' to be rear vented capable. So this opens me up to an easier burning stove such as a PE Alderlea T5 or Lopi Endeavor...from what I read.

We really like the Hearthstone Manchester. The Alderlea T5 we just started looking at - I like that one as well.

 

[bigealta]

I'd measure your chimney height. Looking at your exterior pic and the height of your raised hearth, i'd bet you are more like 15' max from the top of the stove to the top of the chimney.

Can you maybe add 3 ft to the chimney if needed?