Which model Blaze King is this?

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Not all models have the hole in the thermostat flapper. Even now.

Curious to hear how the 6” works on the king. Is that class a all the way to the reducer?

nice job actually measuring draft. Did you poke the tube through your class a?
 
Has there been any issue with smoke rollout? What draft readings are you seeing typically on startup and when operational and at what exterior temps were these readings taken?
 
Not all models have the hole in the thermostat flapper. Even now.

Curious to hear how the 6” works on the king. Is that class a all the way to the reducer?

nice job actually measuring draft. Did you poke the tube through your class a?
Looks like just stainless connector pipe
 
Looks like just stainless connector pipe

sure does, and I see the compression fitting for the draft meter now too.

still curious about how it works.

is there a thread about the death of the IS? That was supposed to be a pretty great machine too.
 
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sure does, and I see the compression fitting for the draft meter now too.

still curious about how it works.

is there a thread about the death of the IS? That was supposed to be a pretty great machine too.
I am curious as well. As you stated earlier draft pressure is only part of the equation. The volume is greatly reduced
 
It works well. Because the way the bypass is designed, I get less smoke spillage than ideal steel during reload. The bypass for the blaze king is towards the back, the bypass for the ideal steel is at the front. My wife always complain at the slightest smoke, I usually don't care or notice.

The draft climb quickly, at 100 thermostat reading at 18 inch stove pipe is .07, at 300 it climbs to 1.2 wc. I have 24 ft of external 6" class A.

As far as the design, I think blaze king is better, but the build quality I will give to the ideal steel. I have nothing against IS. It throws alot of heat, but not as controllable as the blaze king. The secondary let in too much air and at 1 hour in, it is in hyper mode.

I use the stove as supplemental heat, so I don't need all the heat throw out by the ideal steel. I rather reload less and better heat control.

This is just my opinion and experience.
 
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It works well. Because the way the bypass is designed, I get less smoke spillage than ideal steel during reload. The bypass for the blaze king is towards the back, the bypass for the ideal steel is at the front. My wife always complain at the slightest smoke, I usually don't care or notice.

The draft climb quickly, at 100 thermostat reading at 18 inch stove pipe is .07, at 300 it climbs to 1.2 wc. I have 24 ft of external 6" class A.

As far as the design, I think blaze king is better, but the build quality I will give to the ideal steel. I have nothing against IS. It throws alot of heat, but not as controllable as the blaze king. The secondary let in too much air and at 1 hour in, it is in hyper mode.

I use the stove as supplemental heat, so I don't need all the heat throw out by the ideal steel. I rather reload less and better heat control.

This is just my opinion and experience.
You shouldn't get any smoke spillage at all. If you are there is a problem. What is concerning is the volume not the draft reading.
 
One thing I learned during reload is to actually turn the thermostat to lowest when opening door to reload. Because the air wash will actually push the smoke out the front. This is after the door is cracked to establish a strong draft. I don't get any smoke spillage when doing this.

All said I still get char smell top left of the hinge, so might go back to my ideal steel. Wife very sensitive to any smell. I don't get the door design. 7/8 gasket and only use tiny part of it for compression. Very poor design.
 
Lots of stove models use the knife edge design for door gaskets. More psi on the actual sealing surface. Also the welded in rim adds strength to the door opting to help prevent cracks around the door opening.

is your IS cracked around the door?
 
I get a faint smoke smell from top left corner near the hinge. My wc is always above .05, I can even smell it at 1.0 wc.

From looking at the thread, seems like other reports the same issues. Anyone know the size of the button bolt? Sucks I will have to get new gaskets after new replacement.
It could be you just don't have enough volume to properly exhaust the smoke even though you have enough pressure.
 
Lots of stove models use the knife edge design for door gaskets. More psi on the actual sealing surface. Also the welded in rim adds strength to the door opting to help prevent cracks around the door opening.

is your IS cracked around the door?

No cracks or cold welds. I can only smell it an hour after it's running really hot. I feel like it's convection that bring the char smell around the gasket and under the bolts. My last ditch effort is running some rtv silicon on the inside gasket.

Some people might not even notice it.
 
Maybe. But when running at the cruising speed, it more about draft/static pressure than flow rate?
No it is about velocity volume and pressure all the time.
 
I don't understand why it requires 8" flue. Consider the outside air kite is only 3 inch, so at Max burn it only draw 3". 6" flue is more than enough for it. Since it run at very low flue temperature, smaller flue will retain the heat better and pull harder. Only issue I possibly see is at reloading smoke spillage.

Search the forums for people who have problems with their Kings. They're pretty much all on 6" flues. BK also specifies a minimum rise of 36" before the first elbow, so you have two strikes going against your draft there.

Check your side clearances, too. That stove is 10" if you put the BK heat shield on it, 16" otherwise. The diamond plate is not a tested heat shield.

Good luck though, tell us how she works! An old King manual that I think is the right one for your stove is here -> https://blazeking.ca/PDF/manuals/old/OM-KE%20E%20V1.02.pdf
 
Search the forums for people who have problems with their Kings. They're pretty much all on 6" flues. BK also specifies a minimum rise of 36" before the first elbow, so you have two strikes going against your draft there.

Check your side clearances, too. That stove is 10" if you put the BK heat shield on it, 16" otherwise. The diamond plate is not a tested heat shield.

Good luck though, tell us how she works! An old King manual that I think is the right one for your stove is here -> https://blazeking.ca/PDF/manuals/old/OM-KE%20E%20V1.02.pdf


Thanks, not going to mess with it anymore this year. Going back to my ideal steel. Previous owner with 8" flue had the same issue. I thought an new gasket would resolve it. Now looking at the compression mark on the gasket, I notice an issue. The door actually does not shut square. Project for next year
 
Thanks, not going to mess with it anymore this year. Going back to my ideal steel. Previous owner with 8" flue had the same issue. I thought an new gasket would resolve it. Now looking at the compression mark on the gasket, I notice an issue. The door actually does not shut square. Project for next year

Well if the door is bent, that is an easy (but expensive) fix. If you do go back to it, let us know how it works out.
 
Well if the door is bent, that is an easy (but expensive) fix. If you do go back to it, let us know how it works out.

I don't believe the door is bended. These older models has adjustable rails. I guess it wasn't aligned properly when the window gasket was changed.
 
When you're ready to sell it, let me know.