Thank you, I have a jotul f 500 has a vermiculite baffle, it has no air hoses, air comes from behind, like F400. How many degrees does your fan start?What type of stove do you have?
With my PE, I start cutting the air down to 1/2 way once the insert fan kicks on from a cold start, then shut it down slowly as the stove temps go up.
With the 13 (freestanding) , I check secondaries, and thermometer readings.
We don't know anything about that version of the f500 so it's pretty hard to give adviceThank you, I have a jotul f 500 has a vermiculite baffle, it has no air hoses, air comes from behind, like F400. How many degrees does your fan start?
Absolutely correctyou shouldn't have smoke coming out when you turn it down.
this year I had very old wood, mixed, 15 percent and elm a little tall unfortunately, even 25, I only put a piece of this, when I fill the stove full, yes, I'm experimenting.I would honestly just experiment with it. If you turn air down and it almost puts the fire out, then wait a bit to turn air down.
How dry is your wood?
I thought it was normal I hope the cause is my wood this year not all optimalAbsolutely correct
For sure. I've got an Auber digital with cat probe thermocouple given to me by Todd, and there's no guessing with this setup. I know exactly what's going on with the reburn with the instant feedback given by the meter.If you wanted to do it with instrumentation and not by eye then a digital flue thermometer would be best. Depending on the stove, but mine would work best if I got the flue probe to 700F and held it there while the stove was warming up, using the air control to manipulate that temperature. Once warmed up I'd try to hold 550-700f depending on how much heat I need from the stove.
hey, it's mainly clouds, smoke is a little😂does seem like alot of smoke though
yes, just a little other times it seems more maybe because when i close too late and everything is on fire, cutting air I have more unburnedI don't see any smoke? I see clouds... It's a video
yes I have a laser thermometer, where do I have the damper, right above the stove, I always read below 500 (external) but the fumes temperature will be double? Do you mean internal or external temperature?If you wanted to do it with instrumentation and not by eye then a digital flue thermometer would be best. Depending on the stove, but mine would work best if I got the flue probe to 700F and held it there while the stove was warming up, using the air control to manipulate that temperature. Once warmed up I'd try to hold 550-700f depending on how much heat I need from the stove.
yes I have a laser thermometer, where do I have the damper, right above the stove, I always read below 500 (external) but the fumes temperature will be double? Do you mean internal or external temperature?
Both, I'm probably only now understanding that closing the air a little at a time, it is necessary to wait a little, for the entire system to settle on that setting, previously maybe I closed too much, too soon, and the fire died shortly after,Cold start or reload?
it takes longer to turn down on a cold start. On a reload as soon as I have good secondary combustion I will turn its down. If it has good hot coal bed. I can usually just go down to 1/2 then final air setting. The stove top temps respond slow but once it’s back to 400F I should be at or will be at final air setting within 10 minutes.
A thermocouple flue probe thermometer makes all the difference if you are really trying to run as low as possible. You can see in 60 seconds that you turned it down too far.Both, I'm probably only now understanding that closing the air a little at a time, it is necessary to wait a little, for the entire system to settle on that setting, previously maybe I closed too much, too soon, and the fire died shortly after,
It's a longer learning curve than I thought! However if I start cold top down, It doesn't seem wrong to start reducing air right away if I see flames flapping too much.
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