whats the easy cheapest way to build a hearth extension?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

srh_blngr

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 25, 2007
1
cornwall, on
I have an open fireplace, I am having a Regency woodburning insert installed anyday, I have been swamped and have yet to build my hearth extension, I need this done so he can go ahead with the installation. What can I build that would be safe easy to do and not too expensive and I dont want to fuss with tiles, doesnt need to be pretty, just safe, the extension is flush with the existing fireplace and i have hardwood floor, I am gonna go 20 " out, this should be plenty, there is no current hearth at all, could i just use cement board and some kind of fireproof sheet metal? until i have the time to build something pertty?
 
You need to have 18" clearance in front of the loading door, so whether 20" would be ok or not depends on how far out the insert sticks. Tiles and such seem to come mostly in 3 and 6" increments, so I'd be inclined to go 24" unless there was a reason to do otherwise.

In terms of the required protection, what does your manual call out? Assuming it ONLY specifies "non-combustible" with no R-value specified, then you should be OK with just a layer of cement board - I would reccomend DUROCK brand over others - it is the only brand that specifically says it is reccomended for floor protection. The reason people tend to use tile or stone is that the options for decent looking, non-combustible covering materials are limited.

For quick and dirty, I'd cut the existing floor so that it is at least 3/4" to an inch below the existing floor - if you get deeper no big deal, you'll just have to build back up again more. Put down a thin layer of thinset, and a layer of aluminum flashing followed by another layer of thinset (I would use a 1/4" square notch floor trowel, but if cramped for thickness use a triangular wall trowel) and a peice of 1/2" Durock. Screw it down per instructions. Tape the seams if any and fill in any gaps around the edges with more thinset. This would leave you a surface about 1/4" below floor level that you can put tile on later to end up flush. If it looks like it might be a long time before you get to put the tiles down, I'd spread a second layer of aluminum flashing over the Durock and screw it down lightly, just to keep foot traffic from messing up the Durock surface.

Gooserider
 
Ain't gonna be quick and dirty if you have to cut floor!

First, look in the manual and see if they specify an R or K value.

A Company called Heat-Safe used to make a nice hearth board about 18" x 48", and you can screw it down or use clips around the edges. It is made from mineral board, with sheet metal on the bottom and a hammered black sheet metal on top. Very effective board, as they make bigger sizes which entire stoves can sit upon. I can't find it right now, but here are other leads - look at the extensions:

(some of these are similar)
http://www.sandhillwholesale.com/wo...rd-hearth-wall-floor-protection-c-21_197.html



(broken link removed to http://www.hearthclassics.com/hearth_pads/hearth_pad_sizes.html)
(broken link removed to http://www.ajhearthoriginals.com/optionst.htm)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.