What Sharpener to use? Advise please

[swagler85]

Ok so I bought an oregon mini grinder and got a great deal on it. Then I came across the forum thread about the Timberline sharpeners. So now I am seriously considering trying to sell the oregon and buy a timberline. Just seems so much more practical. Doesnt need power and can take it anywhere I go. SO any input from users on both sides would be appreciated. I bought the sharpener cheap enough the i can sell it and probly make a few bucks, and it will pay for the timberline. Thanks

 

[ScotO]

once you get the Timberline and learn to use it, you will like it. IMHO it doesn't hurt to have an electric one at the house, but the problem with most disc-type sharpeners is that it will sharpen the cutter differently than the Timberline will. It takes a sharpening or two to get the Timberline carbide sharpener in line with the cutter, once the cutter is shaped perfectly to the Timberline's carbide that thing works pretty slick. I like mine, esp. for the fact it is so easy to use in the field. But I still use my Dremel with the Oregon stone rotary bits when I am at home, just for the speed of that method. Those stones are almost the exact same size as the Timberline. I put my disc sharpener away years ago. I should probably sell that damm thing...

 

[BrianK]

Ok so I bought an oregon mini grinder and got a great deal on it. Then I came across the forum thread about the Timberline sharpeners. So now I am seriously considering trying to sell the oregon and buy a timberline. Just seems so much more practical. Doesnt need power and can take it anywhere I go. SO any input from users on both sides would be appreciated. I bought the sharpener cheap enough the i can sell it and probly make a few bucks, and it will pay for the timberline. Thanks

I don't have much experience with sharpeners, but once you get the hang of the Timberline, its pretty much idiot proof. (I realized my hands don't have enough grip strength after carpel tunnel surgeries to hand tighten the knobs enough to keep the unit in place on the bar, so I use a small set of pliers to make sure it stays put, so the carbide doesn't ride up out of the curvature of the cutter.)

It puts an amazing edge on the cutters, and barely removes any metal in the process. I'm very pleased that I bit the bullet and went this route. Its relatively quick, very portable and I know the chain is sharpened properly every time. No regrets.

 

[StihlHead]

I use files on an Oregon file guide becasue you can set it at any angle and any offset, and use round or square files. It also does not require electricity. I also learned to use one when I was about 12 years old, when my old man let me use the Homelite chainsaw. Timberline comes set at 30 degrees (or 25 or 35 with a swappable fitting). As far as I can tell, the timberline does not allow for any offset other than 90 degrees.

I also have an electric rotary round stone Dremel type sharpener that I use to touch up loops between hand filing, and loose files for touching up cutters in the woods with. I never had a disk sharpening system, and likely never will. They seem to waste a lot of metal to get the edges right.

 

[onetracker]

question - and a good one for smokinj:

i hand file and sharpen and i've never owned a power sharpener anything. i'm wary that the speed of a power grinder would overheat the cutter and mess with the temper. any feedback on this? after your chains come back from the sharpening service do the edges last just as long as factory?

this is what i love about the timberline. its a hand crank ! it will never overheat the chain. i will eventually buy one of these as i've heard really good things about it

 

[Lewiston]

Very impressed with the Timberline - they've improved an already proven concept. Once you get used to it and your chains conform to it's profile, as Scotty mentions, you can bring your chain back to scary sharp readiness in a matter of minutes right in the field. Just like my PPE will always be with me in the woods so will my Timberline.

 

[thewoodlands]

Ok so I bought an oregon mini grinder and got a great deal on it. Then I came across the forum thread about the Timberline sharpeners. So now I am seriously considering trying to sell the oregon and buy a timberline. Just seems so much more practical. Doesnt need power and can take it anywhere I go. SO any input from users on both sides would be appreciated. I bought the sharpener cheap enough the i can sell it and probly make a few bucks, and it will pay for the timberline. Thanks

Keep the Oregon, I use a round file so I can sharpen in the woods with a flat file so I can take care of the rakers if needed.

zap

 

[bogydave]

I'm a filer.
In the field, 2 tanks of gas, then 2 passes on each cutter.
When home, bar off, clean the saw, bar & chain. Assemble, grease sprocket & sharpen, taking my time with a file to get the cutters sharp & same length.
Hit the rakers if needed.
Ready for next time.

 

[MasterMech]

question - and a good one for smokinj:

i hand file and sharpen and i've never owned a power sharpener anything. i'm wary that the speed of a power grinder would overheat the cutter and mess with the temper. any feedback on this? after your chains come back from the sharpening service do the edges last just as long as factory?

this is what i love about the timberline. its a hand crank ! it will never overheat the chain. i will eventually buy one of these as i've heard really good things about it

Jay uses a Cyclone wheel on his grinder and has recommended Kool-Grind for those running a regular stone wheel.

The key with any grinder is to limit the time the stone contacts the cutter. If you watch any videos on YouTube about chain grinding, most will tap, tap, tap their way around the chain.

I would highly recommend the Timberline for most here that sharpen on the saw. If you have a lot of chain to do, usually it's off the saw and mounting up a dozen or more chains to sharpen gets time-consuming. That's why most shops are running grinders.

I know most of the time if I got a saw in that had a chain on it that was in pretty good shape, I'd just clamp it in the vise and hit it quick with the file. Wouldn't bother with the grinder for 1 chain.

Wouldn't it be interesting to rig up a cheap hard-nosed bar (or cut the nose off an old one) and the Timberline to do chain off the saw? Wonder if there is too much play running .050 chain in a .063 bar (so I could run .050, .058, and .063 chains) to sharpen accurately?

 

[bogydave]

Good point MM.
I used to take my chains in & get them sharpened. I got many back that you could tell the cutter tips were overheated with the grinder & the temper gone.

Filing don't heat the metal much, they seem to stay sharp longer & I get longer chain life. (I think sharper & not burred also)
Those who have grinders & do there own probably take more care & not hurry & know to not overheat the cutter tips.

If you are out cutting & hit something, a spare chain or 2 in the tool box is a faster fix.
Gets you back cutting right away.
Then, when you have time at home, dress up the dull chains so they are good to go next time out.

If you are using your saw for milling, a grinder is a must so you have a good even, straight cut.
For fire wood, being a little off isn't noticeable.

 

[swagler85]

OK so I sharpened my first chain and wasnt impressed with my skills, or better put lack of skills. Saw was pulling to the side and had lots of tiny shavings like you see on a dull chain. I didnt ake the rakers down but did hit all the cutters. Did the tap tap tap to not overheat. Any ideas or pointers as to what I did wrong?

 

[MasterMech]

Some grinders will not automatically grind cutters to the same length on both sides of the chain. When you switch sides, creep up gradually on your desired length to make one side equal to the cutters on the side you've already sharpened. Grinders can take quite a bit of material, especially if you've never run that chain on a grinder before. So double check your raker height with a gauge tool.

 

[blades]

Without see chain its all guess work;
pulling to one side = unequal cutter lengths on either side, or depth gauges not the same height , not sharpend to the same cross angle, worn bar, failure to remove worn area of cutter (seen many a chain with one set of cutters badLy abused and the other side looking like new.
Tiny chips depth gauge too high most likely or if cutting edges were badly rounded failure to completely remove damaged area of cutter when sharpened.

 

[swagler85]

ok Depth guage I forgot about setting that thing. I was excited about sharpening my first chain and completely missed that. I will try again and let you know. THANKS

 

[thewoodlands]

ok Depth guage I forgot about setting that thing. I was excited about sharpening my first chain and completely missed that. I will try again and let you know. THANKS

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zap

 

[swagler85]

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zap

Thanks Zap that was really helpful.
I will try that tonight, hope i didnt ruin my chain

 

[Ashful]

I would highly recommend the Timberline for most here that sharpen on the saw. If you have a lot of chain to do, usually it's off the saw and mounting up a dozen or more chains to sharpen gets time-consuming. That's why most shops are running grinders.

I went the grinder route, before I had ever seen something like the Timberline on the market. My solution was to just buy a bunch of chains for my primary saw, and swap them out as they became dull. When I get enough piled up ready to sharpen, I set up the grinder and have at it one evening. This system works well for me, but does require you to buy at least a few chains for each saw you own.

I'm tempted to pick up a Timberline or hand filing jig for quick tune-ups in the field, but fear neither will play well with the tooth profile left by the grinder.

 

[MasterMech]

I'm tempted to pick up a Timberline or hand filing jig for quick tune-ups in the field, but fear neither will play well with the tooth profile left by the grinder.

You'll file/grind a lot of life out of a chain going back & forth. If you have sharp chains on deck, there is no such thing as a "quick" touch-up in the field. Just swap out and go.

 

[bogydave]

Joful said: ↑

I'm tempted to pick up a Timberline or hand filing jig for quick tune-ups in the field, but fear neither will play well with the tooth profile left by the grinder.​

You'll file/grind a lot of life out of a chain going back & forth. If you have sharp chains on deck, there is no such thing as a "quick" touch-up in the field. Just swap out and go.

+1.
Taking a break & hitting each tooth a pass or 2 with a file before they are dull is one thing,
a quick touch up to sharpen a dulled chain in the field is another, it isn't quick. Doable, just not quick.

Dull chain off & sharp chain on, is pretty quick
You are back to throwing chips instead of sawdust

When I'm in the field, I found it to be allot faster & easier to R&R the chain & get home with the load.
I wrap the dull chains in a rag so I know they need work
Sharpen any chains that need it when: I have some time, at home, in the shop, on the work bench & no bugs
I clean the saw, touch up the chain that's on it. Then clean & sharpen the dulled chain/s.

Just the way I found to be easier for me.

 

[nate379]

That is what I do as well. I have 5 or 6 chains for my saw. When one starts getting dull I swap to a good one. Then when I get home I just sharpen them on the grinder. Takes less than 5 mins a chain to sharpen.
Some days I can only get one tank of fuel on a chain, other days I can run 4-5 tanks. All depends on how clean the wood is and if I am cutting up in the pile or close to the ground.

If I really had to, I could bring the grinder with me and run it off an invertor, but haven't had a day where I ran out of sharp chains yet.

Dave do you buy bulk chain and make your own?

That video is WAY more informative than the book that comes with the grinder. I have the cheaper version but works just about the same.

 

[Ashful]

Cool. That's exactly what I figured when I set myself up with a half dozen chains and the grinder. All these Timberline and hand filer guys had me thinking I was missing out on something better, though.

 

[swagler85]

That is what I do as well. I have 5 or 6 chains for my saw. When one starts getting dull I swap to a good one. Then when I get home I just sharpen them on the grinder. Takes less than 5 mins a chain to sharpen.
Some days I can only get one tank of fuel on a chain, other days I can run 4-5 tanks. All depends on how clean the wood is and if I am cutting up in the pile or close to the ground.

If I really had to, I could bring the grinder with me and run it off an invertor, but haven't had a day where I ran out of sharp chains yet.

Dave do you buy bulk chain and make your own?

That video is WAY more informative than the book that comes with the grinder. I have the cheaper version but works just about the same.

I have the cheaper one too and played with it a few times, havent got it where I liked the job I did yet on the chain but only tried once and then touvhed up. still working on it.

 

[MasterMech]

You'll file/grind a lot of life out of a chain going back & forth. If you have sharp chains on deck, there is no such thing as a "quick" touch-up in the field. Just swap out and go.

One more note on this, if you're sharpening at home with a grinder, you're gonna be doing more than a couple swipes with the file to sharpen the chain in the field due to the profile difference.

 

[smokinj]

Ok so I bought an oregon mini grinder and got a great deal on it. Then I came across the forum thread about the Timberline sharpeners. So now I am seriously considering trying to sell the oregon and buy a timberline. Just seems so much more practical. Doesnt need power and can take it anywhere I go. SO any input from users on both sides would be appreciated. I bought the sharpener cheap enough the i can sell it and probly make a few bucks, and it will pay for the timberline. Thanks

I will buy it.....

 

[nate379]

I say "cheaper", it was still close to $300. Just the one in the video is the high end pro model.

I have this one:http://www.right-tool.com/or51chsawchs.html