I am getting a ZC fireplace (Osburn Stratford) installed next week and want to make sure I have dry enough wood. Is 20% good? I have some seasoned Cherry that I know is dry enough since its been sitting for 3 years over at my parents place so I will be good with that for now. But I also got some Red Oak that is supposedly seasoned for 9 months already and I do have to say I know they say 2 years for Red Oak, but it appears fairly dry already. Also have some green Cherry too that I know is not ready but am curious to see where that is at now. I am getting a moisture meter from Harbor Freight so I can measure the moisture content. Just wanted to see what % you guys like to see burning in these new EPA stoves/fireplaces?
What % moisture content is considered "dry"?
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I have never measured moisture content, but most people seem to think 20% or lower is good, and a few percent higher is acceptable.
I agree on 20% or lower. On the moisture meter, be sure you resplit the wood and then check the moisture.
I clipped this from a site somewhere when I started reading about burning wood and I found it useful.
"The right band of firewood moisture is between 15 and 20%. When you get much over 20% you start to see symptoms of sluggish ignition and the inability to turn down the air without extinguishing the flames. Towards 30% the wood sizzles and fires are very sluggish and it is hard to get a clean burn until the wood is almost to the charcoal stage. Above 30% water bubbles from the end grain when the wood is heated and it is very hard to burn at all. Species like poplar/aspen, which have very high native moisture content are virtually non-combustible when not adequately seasoned."
"The right band of firewood moisture is between 15 and 20%. When you get much over 20% you start to see symptoms of sluggish ignition and the inability to turn down the air without extinguishing the flames. Towards 30% the wood sizzles and fires are very sluggish and it is hard to get a clean burn until the wood is almost to the charcoal stage. Above 30% water bubbles from the end grain when the wood is heated and it is very hard to burn at all. Species like poplar/aspen, which have very high native moisture content are virtually non-combustible when not adequately seasoned."
The EKO boilers manual says ideal is 15 to 25 % and acceptable is 10 to 35%.
I know having burned alot in the 20 to 25 range and throwing in some up to 30 in with the 20-25 % stuff and it still works well just spends a little time evaporating the water during the early part of the burn.
I sure wouldn't fill the whole boiler with 30-35% stuff and expect to get a good fire going.
I know having burned alot in the 20 to 25 range and throwing in some up to 30 in with the 20-25 % stuff and it still works well just spends a little time evaporating the water during the early part of the burn.
I sure wouldn't fill the whole boiler with 30-35% stuff and expect to get a good fire going.
What are you guys reading moisture with? I was looking at a tool with a probe that just touches the wood. Now I hit 2 piece's together and listen for the sound.
wood spliter said:
I have been using a moisture i bought from Harbor Freight "Cen-Tech Digital Mini Moisture Meter" It uses two prongs. I believe it works on how well the wood conducts electricity based on the amount of moisture in the wood. It was only $12. I am unsure how accurate it really is. I burn lodgepole pine and the majority of it measures between 12-15%. I use it primarily to comparison.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=67143
The 3 year old cherry is very ready to burn. You only need a few months for cherry to be ready. And as everyone has said 20 percent and lower is the number to shoot for. Bring the wood in from the cold, let it warm up then split and read from a fresh split. If you can smell the wood, it is probably not ready. You can really smell cherry when it is not ready. Oak is the longest to season.
Thank you for the link. That looks like a deal I am going to order one. I think if I have wood that you know is good and use that as a gauge I should be good to go.dispatcher101 said:
wood spliter said:
I know when a split is really green.. or really seasoned. It's the in between that I'm not always sure of. I've used my moisture meter to "confirm" seasoned wood only to find my "seasoned" wood is actually 27%+.
I too was skeptical about some of te wood I cut as well as some purchased. I also just received my Cen Tech moisture meter from Harbor Freight today.
The oak that I thought was questionable was measuring around 10% on the pieces I have inside. I grabbed a few from outside, re-split, and they were still under 20%. I did check one piece that gave me the OL, (over load), signal. It had to be over 40%. Not sure how or why, but it's nice to kknow it won't be going in my insert anytime soon.
They say these are accurate to +- 2%. Anyone that has used them, what do you think? The price was right and I figure if it saves me messing up my chimney and gives peace of mind, it's a good deal. That is of course if it works?
Just curious what others think that have one.
The oak that I thought was questionable was measuring around 10% on the pieces I have inside. I grabbed a few from outside, re-split, and they were still under 20%. I did check one piece that gave me the OL, (over load), signal. It had to be over 40%. Not sure how or why, but it's nice to kknow it won't be going in my insert anytime soon.
They say these are accurate to +- 2%. Anyone that has used them, what do you think? The price was right and I figure if it saves me messing up my chimney and gives peace of mind, it's a good deal. That is of course if it works?
Just curious what others think that have one.
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