Sorry new to wood burning and post . My questions are these I got a osburn 2400 2 years ago and I cant keep the rope tape on the glass ,the middle air tube is rotted the back top ceramic baffle is cracked ,i cant figure out how to tighten door up and I have to run stove at full bore to get heat out of it . what am i doing wrong and were do I get part to fix it?Sure would like some advise.
what have I done to my insert osburn 2400
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I am really baffled. I have the same stove and it seems to be built like a tank.
What are you burning in there? I hope you find some good help here. I'm very curious where this thread goes. Good luck.
What are you burning in there? I hope you find some good help here. I'm very curious where this thread goes. Good luck.
Welcome to the forums
A bit more information would be great. Perhaps some pictures? IT seems as though your gasket may need to be replaced. As for the rotting combustion tubes, are you burning tires in there? rubber? coal? Just wood? Do you have a stove top thermometer?
Andrew
A bit more information would be great. Perhaps some pictures? IT seems as though your gasket may need to be replaced. As for the rotting combustion tubes, are you burning tires in there? rubber? coal? Just wood? Do you have a stove top thermometer?
Andrew
Hello and welcome to the forum. I work for Osburn so I hope to be of help. It is extremely unusual to have the secondary tubes fail in such a short time. That coupled with your glass or door gasket failing there must be something else at play. Fortunately your tubes are warrantied for life. However, if you could post some pics to try to determine what is going on it would be very helpful. Or you could try to send me a PM (private message) and see how I can help.
It's too bad, I was in your area yesterday but I'm now in SE OH about to go in PA. I could've dropped by and check things out.
Also your local dealer will likely be able to help you.
It's too bad, I was in your area yesterday but I'm now in SE OH about to go in PA. I could've dropped by and check things out.
Also your local dealer will likely be able to help you.
Before looking at your signature I was going to say wet wood problem but you have 15 cords so I'm thinking your wood is pretty dry? Running your stove full bore won't give you more heat it will just send more up the chimney, you need to cut that air back and let those secondaries do their thing. If your not seeing a secondary burn or it seems to go out and smoulder it's either the wood or a draft problem. What's your chimney set up?
Could the cracked baffle be from a chimney sweep pushing the brush down into it or maybe over loading and hitting it with some wood? Pokers can also do damage, you have to be careful and leave a gap up there when loading. Sounds like you need some replacement parts, Fyrebug should be able to help you with that.
Could the cracked baffle be from a chimney sweep pushing the brush down into it or maybe over loading and hitting it with some wood? Pokers can also do damage, you have to be careful and leave a gap up there when loading. Sounds like you need some replacement parts, Fyrebug should be able to help you with that.
The more I think about this the more I feel there is something strange here. You have evidence of overfiring yet you're not getting heat.
1) Tell us more about your wood. Please provide a picture of your woodpile. Also, please go to Lowe's and get yourself a wood moisture meter. They are in the tools section and not that expensive. If your wood is more than 20% humidity, we have a problem. Have you burned Kiln dried wood or pressure treated wood? Burned any other type of wood or chemicals?
2) What is the overall lenght of your chimney. Do you have a 6" liner all the way to the top? Do you have a block of plate?
3) Is your secondary tube warped or sagging? Please provide pic of tube and baffle. Did you ever remove baffle and tube? Have you had chimney cleaned lately?
4) You say the baffle is cracked. Does it looked its from heat or a hit? The C cast baffle can handle heat up to 3,000 f, therefore you would have to have a serious overfire and I dont think it could reach those temps. It's also takes quite a bit to break it.
5) When the blower is on automatic does it ever come on on its own?
6) Have you purchased it from a local dealer? Have you contacted them?
7) Does your glass stay clean or does it get sooty?
As you can see the more info the better and please pictures will help. If you live near Toledo there is a very good dealer in that area - Coal & Wood Burner. They will be an excellent resource. And so will we if you can provide us with this info.
Or if you'd rather, PM with this info of phone # and we'll take care of you.
1) Tell us more about your wood. Please provide a picture of your woodpile. Also, please go to Lowe's and get yourself a wood moisture meter. They are in the tools section and not that expensive. If your wood is more than 20% humidity, we have a problem. Have you burned Kiln dried wood or pressure treated wood? Burned any other type of wood or chemicals?
2) What is the overall lenght of your chimney. Do you have a 6" liner all the way to the top? Do you have a block of plate?
3) Is your secondary tube warped or sagging? Please provide pic of tube and baffle. Did you ever remove baffle and tube? Have you had chimney cleaned lately?
4) You say the baffle is cracked. Does it looked its from heat or a hit? The C cast baffle can handle heat up to 3,000 f, therefore you would have to have a serious overfire and I dont think it could reach those temps. It's also takes quite a bit to break it.
5) When the blower is on automatic does it ever come on on its own?
6) Have you purchased it from a local dealer? Have you contacted them?
7) Does your glass stay clean or does it get sooty?
As you can see the more info the better and please pictures will help. If you live near Toledo there is a very good dealer in that area - Coal & Wood Burner. They will be an excellent resource. And so will we if you can provide us with this info.
Or if you'd rather, PM with this info of phone # and we'll take care of you.
burning ash mainly not my wood was seasoned per tree service was it ????????? no tires coal or others just cord wood . may have been wet . stove may have been over burned did not have any tools that I am finding I should have (thermastat and wood moisture tools ),but stove shows no signs of over burn top plate never got discolored sure am thankful for all the help leave it to a :red: newbie
This might not have been your fault, especially if the stove had a missing or poor gasket seal. If the stove had an air leak at the top of the glass I'm wondering if it could have disrupted the normal airflow and caused a local overheating at the secondary tube.
drifter, can you provide more info about FyreBug's questions?
drifter, can you provide more info about FyreBug's questions?
It could also be that on the initial install or when the chimney was cleaned the baffle was not pushed all the way to the back. This would cause the hot gases to directly vent in the chimney without very little secondary combustion. Make sure your baffle is sitting all the way to the back. Push up on it, then push backward until it stops.
FyreBug said:
This is a good tip. I just checked mine, and while I don't think the baffle can be forward on my setup, I did find that the two pieces were about 3/16" apart at the middle seam. Not sure it matters but pushed them snug.
I got a 2200 insert last year which is my first 'stove'. I ran it a few times then thought I'd try the 'dollar bill test' on the gasket, just for the heck of it. Turns out, I had a pretty big gap near the handle/lock. I hadn't changed anything from how it was received from the manufacturer but this was a needed adjustment that made a huge difference. It wasn't to tough to adjust but a bit tricky to deal with a very small cotter pin.
I am talking with fyrebug on phone soon but in the mean time is there any good articles to read on how to burn (tips ) so Ican make sure I am doing all I can properly the devil is in the details. this is my first stove Igot new 2 years ago and iI may not have had baffle in proper spot possible and when tube broke i quite possible pushhed wood into baffel breaking it . as far as rope gasket by handle that is were I need the adjustment as well will lok into cotter pin for adjustment thanks for all the things to look for. :cheese:
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[quote author="FyreBug" date="1317063441"]Update... Spoke to Marc and it looks as if the baffle was damage in transit or installation which caused the unit to overfire. All three tubes have warped or broken. some bricks have broken as well.
We're sending him all the parts to fix it.[/quote
Good to hear. Hope this winter is a better woodburning experience for him. I love this stove.
We're sending him all the parts to fix it.[/quote
Good to hear. Hope this winter is a better woodburning experience for him. I love this stove.
FyreBug said:
So I'm curious--are you an Osborn dealer Fyrebug? Are these parts being replaced under warranty? Seems like outstanding customer service to me and I'd like to acknowledge that.....
NP
No I actually work for Osburn. I'm in sales but also do tech support. I help where I can 
All under warranty.
All under warranty.
FyreBug said:No I actually work for Osburn. I'm in sales but also do tech support. I help where I can
All under warranty.
Now that's what I call customer service! Osburn just went on my list of stove companies I'd like to do business with in the future....
NP
This is great to hear since I just bought an Osburn 2200 today! Great customer service and warranty!
+1 to this. Great service.Nonprophet said:FyreBug said:No I actually work for Osburn. I'm in sales but also do tech support. I help where I can
All under warranty.
Now that's what I call customer service! Osburn just went on my list of stove companies I'd like to do business with in the future....
NP
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