What else do I need to go along with wood stove?

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vatmark

Burning Hunk
Jan 5, 2017
195
Nebo NC
We are new to wood stoves. We built a new house with a jotul F500 Oslo. What tools and accessories do I need to go along with it?

We have yet to use it due to moving in and getting unpacked. I have to say I am a bit nervous about operating it.

Thanks,

Ann
 
Nothing to be worried about, you can look up jotul on youtube and they have a few videos of how to start fires and operate the stove. Get an ash bucket, small stove shovel, stove thermometer, a steamer pot for the top of the stove to add moisture to the air, old newspaper and kindling and most importantly well seasoned wood. You will get the hang of it quickly.
 
We are new to wood stoves. We built a new house with a jotul F500 Oslo. What tools and accessories do I need to go along with it?

We have yet to use it due to moving in and getting unpacked. I have to say I am a bit nervous about operating it.

Thanks,

Ann
A chimney.

All joking aside read the manual even if vague it will give you proper operating procedures. Then like mentioned look up a video or 2 on operation and starting of fires. You're not a novice if you haven't filled your house with smoke at least once.
 
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I have a Jotul F400 Castine in my living room. Love that stove. Very easy to use. The first time you fire it everything cures and it's going to stink like crazy. Open more windows than you think you need to.

The Castine came with a very long ash rake. I bought a smaller one on Amazon and use the long rake in my 30NC (another great stove) out in the shop. That's pretty much the only tool I use besides the ash can and ash shovel.

I have a log rack by the stove that's big enough to hold 24 hours of wood, so we haul wood up from the basement once per day.

You don't NEED one, but I bought one of those Ecofans that sit on the woodstove. I bought it as something neat for the kids to see years ago, but it is super handy to be able to see how the fire is doing when I'm in the kitchen, which is about 60' from the stove. You can tell what kind of temperature you're running just based on the blade speed. It's also a great conversation starter. Everyone that sees it wants to talk about it and learn more about it.

Nothing nicer in the winter than ending the day by sitting in the living room and watching the secondaries dance the night away.
 
long gloves to load the stove with, and use them! i have often said to myself... i wish that there were something i could use to protect myself against this heat and burning embers as I am kneeling on my gloves :)

You will get the hang of it! I also love my eco fan!
 
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Thanks everyone for the information and tips.

Is there a thermometer we need to measure temperature of the stove pipe?

Does anyone know what the pipe is that is under the wood stove? We have a pipe that comes up from below. It goes to the outside. Is this some sort of makeup air?

We have wood from when the lot was cleared but haven't had time to actually get out there with a chain saw. It's been sitting there for almost a year. Is that long enough for wood to be seasoned? If not we will buy some wood until that wood is seasoned and we get it cut.

I'll have to look into the ecofan. Sounds neat.

I've included a picture. Is there enough clearance between the couch and the stove?

Ann
 

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More than enough clearance between the couch and the stove.

A magenetic thermometer for the stove pipe is a good idea, otherwise and IR thermometer will be good for both the stovetop temps and the flue.

The pipe underneath is an outside air kit, which will allow you to get fresh air into the stove. This is often not needed in draftier houses, but is more common in new houses that are sealed up well!

The wood that was down from last year is probably not seasoned, especially if it is in log forms. You could cut it up and test it with a moisture meter just to see! it depends on the type of wood.
 
Hmm... what stove accessories do I have? Let me rank by how often they get used.

Every day the stove burns:
- Welding gloves
- Cast iron poker
- Humidifier

At least once a week:
- Ash bucket
- Coal shovel
- Infrared thermometer
- Hatchet for making tiny splits for stove-cramming

At least once a season:
- Flue brush and poles
- Wire brush
- Floor fan for blowing cold air downstairs at the stove
- Propane torch for starting fires

Things I have but never use:
- Moisture meter
- Fireplace tongs

And then there's the summer accessory list, which is far longer, and includes a ratty old pickup truck, two chainsaws, a trailer, mauls, wedges... I'm not even going to try to list all of that stuff! :)
 
We have wood from when the lot was cleared but haven't had time to actually get out there with a chain saw. It's been sitting there for almost a year. Is that long enough for wood to be seasoned?
Not by a long shot unless it was standing dead and off the ground this whole time, wood doesn't start drying out until it has been split and stacked, oak splits can take up to 3 years to dry out sufficiently for burning <20% checked by a meter
If not we will buy some wood until that wood is seasoned and we get it cut
Good luck finding truly dry enough wood to burn from a seller, many wood sellers split as they need, since wood takes forever to dry out and space is limited, but do some calling, ask for dry wood, when someone comes for a delivery, check the wood with a moisture meter before accepting the delivery. fyi - always resplit a room temperature piece and check the fresh face of the split with the meter.
 
Thanks Dobish. Not sure why they installed the air intake being this is a log home and not very tight. We have a makeup air contraption for our range hood as well. That was required by code.

jetsam thanks for the detailed list.

Is a blower kit needed? The house is very open on the main floor where the stove is. We have 2 ceiling fans in the great room where the stove sits. This may be a wait and see kind of thing I suppose.
 
Not by a long shot unless it was standing dead and off the ground this whole time, wood doesn't start drying out until it has been split and stacked, oak splits can take up to 3 years to dry out sufficiently for burning <20% checked by a meter

Good luck finding truly dry enough wood to burn from a seller, many wood sellers split as they need, since wood takes forever to dry out and space is limited, but do some calling, ask for dry wood, when someone comes for a delivery, check the wood with a moisture meter before accepting the delivery. fyi - always resplit a room temperature piece and check the fresh face of the split with the meter.


Thanks for the information. This is all the stuff we need to learn as we go along.
 
Is there a thermometer we need to measure temperature of the stove pipe?

It's hard to be certain from the picture, but it kind of looks to me like you might have double-wall stove pipe. If you have double-wall pipe a regular magnetic thermometer wouldn't be accurate. I personally don't use a thermometer on my double-wall pipe, but they make special ones where you drill a hole in the pipe and the temperature probe goes through the hole into the pipe.
 
It's hard to be certain from the picture, but it kind of looks to me like you might have double-wall stove pipe. If you have double-wall pipe a regular magnetic thermometer wouldn't be accurate. I personally don't use a thermometer on my double-wall pipe, but they make special ones where you drill a hole in the pipe and the temperature probe goes through the hole into the pipe.

I looked closely at the pipe and it appears to be a pipe within a pipe. The outside pipe has slots at certain points. Does this indicate double walled? Is there a purpose to a double walled pipe?
 
What he described sounds like ventilated double wall and that will actually scavenge more heat off the flue pipe than single wall pipe. It gets the reduced certified clearances of double wall but it is the least effective at keeping heat in the flue.

I've seen the certified lab testing results of non-ventilated double wall, ventilated double wal, and single wall connecting pipes. Over a given run ventilated double wall has the greatest temperature loss. It works the same as shielding for getting the reduced clearances a convection air current flows through the slits at the bottom and out the top of each section.
 
I looked closely at the pipe and it appears to be a pipe within a pipe. The outside pipe has slots at certain points. Does this indicate double walled? Is there a purpose to a double walled pipe?

The best way to describe my double-wall pipe is like you said, a pipe in a pipe. I think it's mostly for clearance since the exterior of the pipe doesn't get anywhere near as hot as single-wall pipe, but it has more benefits. My pipe telescopes, so I have one pipe to the chimney. I pull the pipe down (telescope down) when I want to clean the chimney from inside the house, which I do every year in the fall. The double-wall pipe looks great forever. I think my inner pipe might be stainless steel because it shines like a mirror after I run the cleaning brush through it. Single-wall pipe doesn't age well. It appears you have a very nice professional installation and it doesn't surprise me that they'd run the double-wall.

I could be totally off base, but I think the double wall helps the stove burn cleaner since it keeps more heat in the pipe instead of radiating out. I burn 24x7 over the winter, and the amount of creosote produced over one heating season (stove pipe and chimney) will fit in a coffee cup. I burn dry oak and keep it hot, but I think the double-wall pipe helps.
 
Non-ventilated double wall pipe gives the increased performance everyone associates to double wall. But ventilated double wall does not, it only gives the reduced clearances.
 
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Wife got me a lot tote with closed ends, basically a big heavy duty bag. Great for bringing in wood and not leaving a trail of dirt or bark or what ever else falls off the logs.
 
We are new to wood stoves. We built a new house with a jotul F500 Oslo. What tools and accessories do I need to go along with it?

We have yet to use it due to moving in and getting unpacked. I have to say I am a bit nervous about operating it.

Thanks,

Ann

Welcome to the forum.

Tools and accessories are largely a matter of personal preference developed over time . . . for example some folks love ash rakes, but I've never felt the need for one, but I do love my short handled flat fireplace shovel.

Tools I use frequently include welder's gloves (for routine loading), thicker hearth gloves (for taking out a hot ash pan without burning myself) and the aforementioned fireplace shovel . . . oh yeah, also my whisk broom and dust pan for cleaning up messes on the hearth.

Infrequent, but useful tools, include a poker, infrared thermometer and flashlight (for checking my flue and stove top thermometer when the lights are off) . . . oh that reminds me . . . I am a huge fan of flue and stove top thermometers . . . put that on the "must get" list.

I would say to not be nervous about running the woodstove, but honestly it's good to be a little nervous/cautious . . . it helps one develop good burning habits early on. That said, if you have questions or concerns, the folks here are pretty good at getting back to folks quickly . . . and many of us have been burning for several years with no major incidents.
 
Thanks everyone for the information and tips.

Is there a thermometer we need to measure temperature of the stove pipe? Yes . . . depends on whether the stove pipe is single wall or double wall. If it is single wall a traditional magnet-equipped chimney flue thermometer will work . . . if it is double wall you will need a probe style thermometer. I've had good luck with the Condar brands.

Does anyone know what the pipe is that is under the wood stove? We have a pipe that comes up from below. It goes to the outside. Is this some sort of makeup air? Hard to see in the pic . . . but I'm guessing this is probably an OAK . . . outside air kit . . . used to bring in air from outside to the stove.

We have wood from when the lot was cleared but haven't had time to actually get out there with a chain saw. It's been sitting there for almost a year. Is that long enough for wood to be seasoned? If not we will buy some wood until that wood is seasoned and we get it cut. The Oslo, like most EPA stoves, really does best with well seasoned wood. A moisture meeting reading on a fresh split wood face of 20% or less is ideal . . . although I am old school and simply make sure my wood has been cut, split and stacked for a year (or more likely many years) prior to use. Your wood may or may not be good to go -- really depends on the moisture. Incidentally, even buying "seasoned" wood is not a guarantee of success as oftentimes the seller's idea of what is truly seasoned may not match your stove's needs and desires.

I'll have to look into the ecofan. Sounds neat. To really move the air ceiling fans with what looks to be a loft or cathedral ceiling will help you out a lot . . . ditto with a floor fan pointing towards the woodstove from an adjacent room.

I've included a picture. Is there enough clearance between the couch and the stove? Hard to tell from the pic . . . but at first blush I would say it appears to be good. What's the actual measurement?

Ann
 
Wife got me a lot tote with closed ends, basically a big heavy duty bag. Great for bringing in wood and not leaving a trail of dirt or bark or what ever else falls off the logs.

Oh yeah . . . forgot about this as well. I love my LL Bean tote . . . helps a lot with the mess.
 
Fireplace broom - I use it with every load to clean up ash and log litter.
Ash shovel - This is what I broom the ashes and litter into.
Poker - Sometimes you just have to poke the logs around a bit.
Fireplace tongs - I need these maybe twice a season, but when I do I REALLY need them!

The Oslo has a very fine ash pan, but you need something to empty the ashes into. I have two of these: http://www.acehardware.com/product/...69&cp=2568443.2568448.2626059.2627613.2627622 . Ash pans and cans will hold hot coals for three days easy - sometimes longer. I fill the first can and start filling the second for at least a week before emptying the first one. If you are just an occasional burner something smaller will do.

Then there are the firewood gathering tools: ax, maul, chainsaw, grinders to sharpen the ax and maul, chain sharping tools, steel toe boots, hard hat, face shield, saw chaps, wheelbarrow, cant, pickaroon, pickup truck, tractor with front loader....
 
Thanks everyone for the information and tips.

Is there a thermometer we need to measure temperature of the stove pipe?

Does anyone know what the pipe is that is under the wood stove? We have a pipe that comes up from below. It goes to the outside. Is this some sort of makeup air?

We have wood from when the lot was cleared but haven't had time to actually get out there with a chain saw. It's been sitting there for almost a year. Is that long enough for wood to be seasoned? If not we will buy some wood until that wood is seasoned and we get it cut.

I'll have to look into the ecofan. Sounds neat.

I've included a picture. Is there enough clearance between the couch and the stove?

Ann

No offense but please start preparing yourselves mentally and emotionally for a rude awakening.

Getting a good supply of dried well seasoned firewood is nothing like ordering a pizza or a tank of propane or whatever.

Firewood sellers: If they say it's "seasoned", it's a very good bet it's anything but. Just the nature of the game, nothing new and you certainly aren't unique. Anything you bought today *might* be ready this time next year. Best thing you can do this year are the pressed firewood logs sold by Tractor Supply and farm stores and coops.

Pretty much every new wood stove owner goes through this. Just start planning for the reality now and eventually you'll get ahead in your firewood.

Good luck!
 
The three tools I use at every reload are some kind of tote to bring fuel in from the garage, a small broom to sweep up the hearth and a small shovel to use as a dustpan. While my load is catching with the stove door open I sweep up the hearth and flick the sweepings into the fire.

You will want a metal can with a lid outdoors on a not flamable surface to put your hot ashes in when you clean out the stove. We haven't had one this year that I have heard of--- but it is probably an annual occurrence for someone to put hot ashes from the stove into a plastic bucket, keep that in the house overnight, then call the fire department in the middle of the night with whatever cell phone someone remembered to grab on the way out into the cold. I got a 35gal galvanized trash can from Lowes-Depot for, I dunno, thirty bucks? And then a bungee cord to hold the lid on in case the wind picks up and tries to pull the lid off. You could go smaller, half full is about as heavy a thing as I want to deal with. Just don't keep it on your wooden porch or deck, it needs to be sitting on something that won't catch fire.

I personally process next winter's wood this winter. No mosquitos, no mud, and I can sip on scotch whisky instead of gulping gatorade. Plus I can go fishing as soon as the ice melts since that time consuming chore is done.