What did I do wrong?

[Dagoof]

I was slack in getting my firewood taken care of, and the stove sat cold for two weeks, but with the temperature getting down to 12 degrees, I decided to get a fire started again. My fire was slow to start and smoke started billowing out of the stove from everywhere.

I assume that this is because the chimney was so cold that cold air was coming down instead of hot air going up, but how do I counter such a thing when it's cold out and I'm starting a new fire?

It really was a big problem for me. The family room got so smokey that you could barely breath, and even after opening doors and windows in the freezing weather, the whole house still reaks of smoke a day latter.

For what it's worth, my specifics are as follows:
Enviro Kodiak 1700
Stove in the basement
Lined Chimeny
12 degrees outside

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Is your cap plugged? Did you forget to open damper? You can use a propane torch to get the draft running in the right direction.

 

[jatoxico]

I have my insert on the lower floor of a split so I get down drafting pretty often. Before I knew what I was dealing with I struggled, once having a full on reversal; no fun.

Now on a cold start if I feel cold air coming down I slide a baffle plate out of the way and put one piece of newspaper right in the flue and light in to push the cold slug of air out.

 

[Simonkenton]

Get a sheet of newspaper, stuff it in there, don't ball it up keep it loose where it will burn fast. Stick it on top of the firewood and light it up.
It will burn fast and get hot air going up that pipe.
Have a second sheet on hand and when that first sheet lights up, stick the second sheet in there, then light the wood.

 

[Dagoof]

once having a full on reversal; no fun.

I think that's what I just experienced.

 

[webby3650]

You just need more heat in the flue. Basement installs can be very tricky at times. A small propane torch works well, as does more paper.

 

[jatoxico]

Just for the sake of discussion; I'm certain there's a spectrum to the extent this happens and what it takes to overcome the down draft. So depending on the install and even on the same set up, it varies depending on the weather etc.

I've tried "getting away" with just tossing paper on top and more paper on top. Sometimes it works but I've never been able to tell if it's my lucky day or not. So now I don't mess around. One pc right in the flue. It can take 10-15 sec before it takes off but then you get the rush of air up.

When I tried more loose paper on top it was often just more smoke in the room. As I said in my case (cold exterior flue/lower level install) the chimney will feed the fire in reverse and it all ends up in the house.

Since I'm prone to this I always make sure to leave the air open a bit over night so I send enough heat up to keep the flue warm. I have CO detector close by and have never had draft collapse once the fire has been running but I'd be aware that it's a possibility.

 

[kennyp2339]

I feel bad for people that have down drafts, I have been lucky enough never to have experienced one in my home, when starting in a cold chimney either put a blow dryer in the stove and let it run for 10 -15 min, or use a blow torch.
On the wood part, make sure your stuff is dry, dry wood lights faster, burns hotter and cleaner.

 

[Smifty]

Happens to me when the drier is on and I'm not aware of it. I've found that to be a common occurrence with basement installs with basement laundry rooms.

 

[webby3650]

I feel bad for people that have down drafts, I have been lucky enough never to have experienced one in my home, when starting in a cold chimney either put a blow dryer in the stove and let it run for 10 -15 min, or use a blow torch.
On the wood part, make sure your stuff is dry, dry wood lights faster, burns hotter and cleaner.

I’ve never experienced this struggle in my home, even in the basement. I know others do, it must suck... I don’t even use kindling, just a fire starter in the middle of a full load. Off she goes!

 

[edyit]

as a former basement install owner i can fully relate to what you experienced. a few tricks that work better than paper with less smoke were blowing a hair dryer / heat gun / propane torch into the exhaust inlet to force the draft the correct direction, this could take 5 minutes or more depending on your pressure differential. once the draft is flowing the right direction start the fire normally.

 

[brenndatomu]

a few tricks that work better than paper with less smoke were blowing a hair dryer / heat gun / propane torch into the exhaust inlet to force the draft the correct direction

This! ^ ^ ^

 

[jatoxico]

when starting in a cold chimney either put a blow dryer in the stove and let it run for 10 -15 min, or use a blow torch.

hair dryer / heat gun / propane torch into the exhaust inlet to force the draft the correct direction, this could take 5 minutes

I do a lot of cold starts and as I said I get that everybody's situation is different. Breaking out a heat gun or blow torch and sitting there for 5 min every time I want to start a fire when I have paper right next to the stove that does it in 15 sec start to finish and doesn't blow ash around works for me. If you can access the flue easily I'd say this is easiest, if you have a baffle that isn't easily set aside you do what you got to do.

 

[RobbieB]

To make sure you have draft you can test with a match. Just light it and hold it close to the top of the stove with the door open if the flame goes in you're good if it blows into the room you better start the draft before you light that paper.

 

[blades]

out put of vacuum cleaner or shop vac works well also ( them females get all twisted up when you grab THEIR hair dryer)

 

[simple.serf]

I used to have this at work with a large Farjas wood fired bakery oven. If the bakers let it go cold (the younger bakers hated this thing... they liked the Hobart rack ovens) it would backdraft really bad. I used to have to pressurize the building with the air handlers, then light the fire. After 20 min I could let the computer control airflow again.

At home when this happens (rare, we burn 24/7), I use a propane torch for a minute or two, then light the fire.

I have a basement install as well.

 

[begreen]

Air leakage on the floors above can cause negative pressure in the basement. To remedy the issue make sure that no windows are open or attic doors are leaking upstairs. Unsealed can ceiling lights can also be a big source of upstairs leakage. Try starting a small fire when you are sure everything upstairs is closed and no exhaust devices are running (including clothes dryer) and the furnace/boiler is off. If no improvement, try cracking open a nearby window 1/2", and try again.

For firestarting, reversing the draft with a propane torch, hair dryer, or other source of clean heat point to above the baffle area may help. Also, start the fire using the top-down method.

 

[Rickb]

This! ^ ^ ^

I'll second it! I couldn't live with out my self lighting torch. I will also crack my sliding door for a few minutes.

 

[edyit]

@jatoxico i should have phrased that better, it could take 5 minutes or more, or less depending on your pressure differential. when we had our stove set up in the basement on cold starts i tried the paper thing and all it did was blow smoke back in the house and piss off the wife because now she was cold and the house stinks. i found the heat gun worked to get my draft going the right way a lot better than paper did. 5 minutes with a heat gun was better than 30 minutes of hen pecking....

 

[jatoxico]

it could take 5 minutes or more, or less depending on your pressure differential. when we had our stove set up in the basement on cold starts i tried the paper thing and all it did was blow smoke back in the house and piss off the wife because now she was cold and the house stinks

Anyone who deals with this knows, I can feel the cold air rushing down as soon as I open the door or even just put my had by the primary air lever. Its unmistakable and no need for matches etc. I tried her hair dryer once and it was a disaster. All my fault but blew ash all over and not enough uumph anyway. Heat gun or torch would work better for sure.

The Jotul has clear access to the vent and I can get the paper well inside the vent so when I light it I only get a wisp or so of smoke it only burns lazy for a couple seconds then...whoosh!

Whatever works for everyone though, everyone's situation is a little different I have to say the amount of heat in a pc of newspaper is surprising, like when you throw one nail in a board or something, amazing sometimes.

 

[bholler]

I do a lot of cold starts and as I said I get that everybody's situation is different. Breaking out a heat gun or blow torch and sitting there for 5 min every time I want to start a fire when I have paper right next to the stove that does it in 15 sec start to finish and doesn't blow ash around works for me. If you can access the flue easily I'd say this is easiest, if you have a baffle that isn't easily set aside you do what you got to do.

It is also a great way to start a chimney fire if you have creosote in the flue

 

[jatoxico]

It is also a great way to start a chimney fire if you have creosote in the flue

Yes it would be!

 

[stovelark]

Wow at least I see you are running a stove that drafts easily almost always. I had this issue to a small extent with my Oslo years ago, but like webby mentioned above, with my Kodiak now I use only a fire starter with regular firewood with a small shot of gelled alcohol to get things going quick and reliably. It could be a frustrating experience I'm sure. You had never experienced this before? I'm curious if something on top level was open, making the pressure plane rise in the house, like BG had mentioned above... anyway, hope all is well now.

 

[edyit]

It is also a great way to start a chimney fire if you have creosote in the flue

i wasn't suggesting taking out the baffle and blowing directly into the flue, and i don't have a stove with a bypass. most stoves i've seen have openings in the front roof of the stove by the door. airwash enters here and smoke exhausts here. you clean thousands of these things you know what i mean. this is where i have directed the hair dryer / heat gun / torch.

 

[bholler]

i wasn't suggesting taking out the baffle and blowing directly into the flue, and i don't have a stove with a bypass. most stoves i've seen have openings in the front roof of the stove by the door. airwash enters here and smoke exhausts here. you clean thousands of these things you know what i mean. this is where i have directed the hair dryer / heat gun / torch.

Ues that is just fine i do it myself sometimes. I was replying to jatoxico who moves the baffle and lights paper right in the flue.