wet insulated stove pipe help

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

all night moe

Minister of Fire
Nov 19, 2015
669
earth
I went shopping on cl and bought some stove pipe. Its selkirk metalesbestos brand. From two separate listings I ended up with aprox. 20', a tee w/ plug, support shelf, some locking rings, one wall brace, and roof brace. After getting it home I stored it in the basement. A week goes by before I get time to do anything. It appears that four of the 3'ers sat in the rain before my dumb a$$ handed over my hard earned coin. The insulation is soaked. Some water has seeped out and they feel 3x heavier than the dry ones. You can also hear the insulation shift back and fourth when the pipe is turned end over end. Is there a way to dry these out like maybe standing up next to the stove? Will the insulation remain effective if I do? Or should I remain with my head hung low and count my losses?
 
Any advice here will be greatly appreciated. Used fireplace masonry chimney last winter. The exterior masonry on exterior wall was hard to keep warm enough for a good draft on a ridged day. The northeast exposure doesn't help either. So I'm opting to use a through the wall class A system using one of the 24x24" windows above the mantel. I hope to salvage what I have, but I don't want to salvage a home. Any advice? Anyone?
 
Any advice here will be greatly appreciated. Used fireplace masonry chimney last winter. The exterior masonry on exterior wall was hard to keep warm enough for a good draft on a ridged day. The northeast exposure doesn't help either. So I'm opting to use a through the wall class A system using one of the 24x24" windows above the mantel. I hope to salvage what I have, but I don't want to salvage a home. Any advice? Anyone?
Can you drop it down the chimney
 
Unfortunately not. Has 8x13 clay flue and functioning damper. We're only staying in this house for another year or so then moving to a new location. I didnt want to alter or harm the home's value. The window is easy to pop out and put back when the time comes. I guess I could use my soaked pipe for my future shop/garage and buy new pipe now. It really hurts the pocket though. I work outdoors for a living and winter slows the cash flow down to a crawl.
 
Can someone direct me to someone who can give me some advice on this? I'd ask the company but they would probably tell me to buy more pipe to be safe. Is there another site or forum I should be asking this on?
 
The manufacturer would be a good place to start. It doesn't sound good but they may have greater experience with this issue and suggestions to remedy.
 
If it sloshes around like that then the insulation has packed down in the pipe. No way to get it distributed back out in the pipe even if you dried it out. Which the only way to do that would be is to set the stove up outside and burn a section at a time in it to dry the stuff out. But it will still be half insulated and half un-insulated pipe.

Loss counting time.
 
If it sloshes around like that then the insulation has packed down in the pipe. No way to get it distributed back out in the pipe even if you dried it out. Which the only way to do that would be is to set the stove up outside and burn a section at a time in it to dry the stuff out. But it will still be half insulated and half un-insulated pipe.

Loss counting time.
is it possible to repack the insulation?
 
is it possible to repack the insulation?
I've heard you can have the pipe relined by the manufacture... that would be the time to re-insulate. I doubt it would be cost effective though. If I dried them out, maybe I could vibrate the pipe upside down to re-distribute the insulation pack. Worst case I'll save them for my shop build and give them a little more air space along side the structure. It will have metal siding also. Thanks everyone for your advice.
 
I've heard you can have the pipe relined by the manufacture... that would be the time to re-insulate. I doubt it would be cost effective though. If I dried them out, maybe I could vibrate the pipe upside down to re-distribute the insulation pack. Worst case I'll save them for my shop build and give them a little more air space along side the structure. It will have metal siding also. Thanks everyone for your advice.
If u used the bad parts inside it would work.
 
If u used the bad parts inside it would work.
Why would that work? If the insulation is compromised at all why would you want it inside and near combustible materials?
 
Why would that work? If the insulation is compromised at all why would you want it inside and near combustible materials?
I meant like single wall pipe
 
I suppose if you want to try and save it, dry it out as suggested by BB and shoot the pipe with an IR thermometer to see if the temp is evenly distributed but it don't sound good.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.