Wedge issue

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cwitham

Member
Oct 29, 2012
97
Central Indiana
I have what I believe is a 25 (maybe 27 ton) MTD log splitter. The cylinder has been replaced and the stickers/labels/model number are all missing or unreadable. Anyway the wedge doesn’t go straight down the beam. It dog walks and is just plain sloppy. Sloppy enough it got a bunch of bark pieces under it and stopped the wedge from moving, we had to take it apart to get it freed up. I bought it used and I know nothing about it. I either want to repair or replace the wedge or the spacers and adjusters.
 

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I guess while I’m at it I have a couple things I want to “fix”. The only way I have to shut off the engine is to either cut the zip ties shown in the photo that has two zip ties in it or to use the red zip tie to pull the spark plug wire off the plug. There is also no way to slow the engine down aside from taking the zip tie off the throttle. These are beyond annoying to me and I don’t have any real ideas on how to fix them.
 

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I have the same wedge system. It needs periodic adjustment. What you are describing is because it is too tight on the sides. The second picture shows how it is tight due to the rubbing marks on the side of the "I" beam.

All the spacers are meant to be rotated as wear develops over time. The picture with the side plate that pivots with two bolts should be your first adjustment. There should be small metal spacers in there that can be rotated. As you tighten those bolts, it reduces the play on the side to side action of the wedge. If it is too tight, you will get the "walking" you are describing.

I'd remove the bolts, drop all the spacers, check for excessive wear, rotate whatever plates need rotated and button it back up after a good coat of oil. The wedge does not need to come off.

As for the engine, the only assistance I could provide is to add a throttle cable. Mine has a BS engine that runs full throttle and just has a choke and on/off switch.


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The adjustable spacer only has one of the metal blocks in it the one is missing.
Are there replacement parts for this system?
Do you have pics you can post of yours so I can see one properly assemble?

If there aren’t replacement parts I’m still inclined to replace the whole wedge assembly.
 
My splitter is out on loan, so I don't have access to it. I'm thinking mine is about a 1999. I just did a quick search and it looks like parts are still available. I doubt the parts changed much during the years this wedge and full I beam were used. Pretty sure they are referred to as "Gibbs". Make sure the bolt spacers are still there also.

Give this link a shot. Look at 54....hard to tell on my phone screen.


I wouldn't spend the money replacing anything though, unless something is bent that can't be straightened. If you are missing one of the shims, it is just some bar stock. You should be able to make a new one pretty easily.



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As said above, the slide just needs to be adjusted properly with spacers and side adjustment screws. No need to replace anything that I can see.

On the motor it appears that you are missing the throttle cable. It’s very difficult to tell with your pics but often this style of throttle with have a “kill” ground when the throttle is at its lowest position, assuming the ground wire is still hooked up. That would solve engine speed adjustment and engine kill function.


ETA: the throttle on my engine (an old Briggs) is off at its lowest setting and choke on its highest setting with throttle adjustment in between those two.
 
Thanks guys.

Jags, the engine is a predator replacement the pic that shows the spot with two zip ties has to be tied open like that or it won’t start (is this the ground you’re speaking of)? i want to figure out some way to be able to push pull that on and off so I can actually shut it off.

The lower single zip tied lever is the throttle and there is no choke just a primer bulb.
 
So apparently the upper lever is an engine brake/coil cut out, I’m going to just bypass all that crap since the engine clearly isn’t on a lawnmower. I will add a throttle cable and an automotive electrical switch to kill power to the coil. That will fix the “problems.” While I’m at it I’m gonna add a set of trailer lights to it since I actually tow mine on the road.
 
So apparently the upper lever is an engine brake/coil cut out, I’m going to just bypass all that crap since the engine clearly isn’t on a lawnmower. I will add a throttle cable and an automotive electrical switch to kill power to the coil. That will fix the “problems.” While I’m at it I’m gonna add a set of trailer lights to it since I actually tow mine on the road.
I remember watching a YouTube video where that engine was used as a replacement. The guy did a simple modification for it to work on a log splitter. Do a search on YouTube before you dive into any mods.

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Here is the video. Fast forward to the end. He shows the throttle and shutoff for your engine. Pretty ingenious.




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Here is the video. Fast forward to the end. He shows the throttle and shutoff for your engine. Pretty ingenious.




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Good video to show how to rig the new engine.

But, dude doesn't respect the danger that he is in, hugging the rounds as he splits them, and keeping his hand fully engaged to the wood. Just a couple of weeks ago, I had a piece of tough wood pop out, fly backwards, and catch me in the forehead, and I was standing well away from the machine. If I was standing over the wood like he is, I'd have likely had a broken jaw, nose, lost teeth, or worse.
 
Here is the video. Fast forward to the end. He shows the throttle and shutoff for your engine. Pretty ingenious.




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well I took his brake advice and made my own version and used the throttle kit he used...
 

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So..... How does it work? I found that video when I was looking for replacement engines in the unlikely event mine fails. I would rather have a larger displacement vertical engine. I'm just not sure the pump can be higher than the fluid tank "exit".

Your install looks good to me with the mods. I bet the engine doesn't even need to work at full throttle for the ram to ru properly.
 
Should I replace these pieces?
 

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Runs just fine
 

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flying splits- caught by one aways back ,full in th e chest, knocked me backwards and down I went right on the pile of fresh splits hard. so that gave me a whole bunch of new orifices on my back side as well as dislocating my shoulder. knocked the should back in place ( its happend before) but had to solicit help in patching the backside.
 
flying splits- caught by one aways back ,full in th e chest, knocked me backwards and down I went right on the pile of fresh splits hard. so that gave me a whole bunch of new orifices on my back side as well as dislocating my shoulder. knocked the should back in place ( its happend before) but had to solicit help in patching the backside.
Yikes. Sounds like a bad one.

When I watch many of the videos these
internet folks make, I am frequently astounded by the lack of respect they give to these dangerous forces at work. I'm very careful and still suffer some damage. Not to the extent you described, Blades, but many times the injuries could have been much worse if I wasn't being careful.
 
i have rounds pop and fly before but mostly there is awarning like the splitter going into hi pressure low speed - no warning on this one just a nice straight piece of Elm no knots and it did not look all twisted like some but it sure had something wound up inside.
 
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While I appreciate the word of warning “flying splits” these comments have no bearing on the original content of the thread nor do they relate to the further questions regarding the wedge.
 
i have rounds pop and fly before but mostly there is awarning like the splitter going into hi pressure low speed - no warning on this one just a nice straight piece of Elm no knots and it did not look all twisted like some but it sure had something wound up inside.
Yes, most of the time, it's possible to know when to be a little extra careful, it's those times when everything seems normal that very bad surprises occur. So, when I see such lackadaisical behavior on these videos, I know they are setting a bad example.

90% of the time, I'm only using the hydraulic splitter on stuff I haven't been able to split with the mauls, so I'm always on high alert, even the other 10% of the time, just out of habit. Even the easy stuff flies off unexpectedly quite often.

Hydraulics and random wood growth make for an inherently dangerous situation.
 
While I appreciate the word of warning “flying splits” these comments have no bearing on the original content of the thread nor do they relate to the further questions regarding the wedge.
You are right about that!

Good luck getting your splitter fixed, and safe splitting.
 
I put the same engine on my splitter this summer but I put a spring on the shutoff, so all I have to do is push if forward
 

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Should I replace these pieces?
Those are pretty bad. Are you able to flip them? If it were me, I'd just make my own out of bar stock, but I realize some people dont have a cutoff saw or ability to drill through 1/2" stock.

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I did flip them. I have the ability to build my own just figured I’d use them up completely. I’ll buy the stock to build new ones. Based on this schematic i am missing one of the thin shims. I don’t quite understand the stack of (4) washers it shows on the far side of the wedge. I’ll circle the stack I’m speaking of. There is no way that stack goes between the i-beam guide and the adjuster. It isn’t physically possible at least not with the setup on my splitter.
 

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