By about 2-4 inches. Oops. We can fit one piece in diagonally, but we sure can't pack it in! We have an ax, and a small chain saw, and a round saw - any advice for how best to shorten these? (And I bet we'll remember to specify lengths next time!!)
We finally got wood, and it's too long!
- Thread starter breathebeast
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Zap will have a fix for you! Hey Zap - can you repost your photo of your modified sawbuck, or a link to that previous post? Cheers!
NH_Wood --- I dont think their chainsaw is going to have a long enough bar to use the 'Stuffed-box-on-its-side' method. I use a plastic milkcrate screwed onto a piece of 15" long plywood- but I have a 20" bar. I'm thinking Breathebeast prolly has a 16"bar ---> making it much harder. Im sure someone will remember the post with the pic....if not I'll snap a pic of mine when I get home.
breathebeast said:
Measure what would fit for a North/South Burn and cut that short piece off each split. Then you can have a bottom layer of E/W topped by a layer of N/S and nothing is wasted, plus you don't have a bunch of two inch blocks to mess with.
For example... if your stove measures 22 E/W and 8 N/S and your splits are 26 inches, re cut your splits to 20 inches, which will leave you short pieces of six inches for your N/S burn. A table top chop saw would be perfect to do this quickly. A circular saw would be my next choice.
Next order, I'm sure you'll want to confirm length of splits before it's delivered and off loaded.
Found it. Click on this thread. Mine is quite the same,except I use a plastic milk crate on its vertical side, screwed onto a 15"piece of plywood ,screwed onto a large round.Very sturdy.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/60241/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/60241/
Okay - perhaps his saw might not do it, and I agree, the kerf would waste quite a bit of wood vs. sawzall (assuming he has one). But, if you have to get the wood shorter, he might have to try the Zap method. Cheers!
Our old stove took wood over 20" and we had lots of wood on hand when we bought the Fireview. Whoops. 20" won't work any more. What to do. We had two choices; cut the ends off or cut them into two equal pieces. We chose to cut the ends off making the logs 16" each. That left us with some mighty short pieces. No problem. We just threw them into the stove when there was a coal bed and they burned fine.
btw, we used a chain saw with 16" bar and a sawbuck. Wife grabbed logs and put them onto the sawbuck while I did the sawing. It really did not take that long to finish but was a bit of a bother.
btw, we used a chain saw with 16" bar and a sawbuck. Wife grabbed logs and put them onto the sawbuck while I did the sawing. It really did not take that long to finish but was a bit of a bother.
I once got 3 cord of seasoned firewood for free, all bucked and split. Only prob was it was all 3 or 4 inches too long. My boys and I cut them all with a Sawzall.
Awesome, I built a dinky sawbuck with scrap wood that will sit on top of our old monster of a wood stove/furnace downstair (getting the whole thing up to chest height so we don't have to be bending over all the time). Feeling good about having a solution for this. Our chainsaw is only 14" (but I'm a pretty small woman - figured I prefer safe to sorry - and I want to be able to lug it around outside) - so we may only be able to do a few splits at a time. But at least we'll finally learn how to use the chainsaw, so we can go rescue the fence from the down trees back there (and now I'm getting kindof inspired to cut the wood from those trees - the trunks aren't too big and I bet I wouldn't even have to split them for a fire that's got good coals - if only I can persuade my busy man to lug the wood inside!).
breathebeast, just remember to be very careful. When cutting those short pieces beware that the saw will have a tendency to throw them so if someone is hanging onto them, they must be very careful. But it starts with the saw. Do not place the end of the bar on the wood first! Make sure the wood in at the saw when you start the cut or it will come flying back to you. You do not want that but as long as you know what it will do and are careful it will work out okay. And yes, this would be good practice with the saw.
![[Hearth.com] We finally got wood, and it's too long!](/talk/data/attachments/36/36347-b0fe1a90081bd4584aa5d6cd24144524.jpg?hash=Nnqm2kRzMD)
![[Hearth.com] We finally got wood, and it's too long!](/talk/data/attachments/36/36349-9fc0c14408504f64f63addcfc7d7166a.jpg?hash=uVOvBDXDgk)
That happened me when I installed my new stove in 2006. Six cords to shorten. I used one of these.
http://tinyurl.com/2egpxdy
http://tinyurl.com/2egpxdy
Hey Backwoods Savage,
I'm hoping the instructions will give me some good advice on this chainsaw thing. I admit, I'd actually be more comfortable starting on the tree trunks outside (none set at dangerous positions). I like the idea of using bungee cords to secure the wood, too, though if someone can hold onto it safely I suppose that would be faster. I'm not clear what your advice is, though - not to put the tip of the chainsaw on the wood? I was figuring on starting up the chainsaw in the air before putting it in contact with the wood. Though you're making me wonder if my sawbuck is too lightweight....hmmm....tomorrow we find out...
I'm hoping the instructions will give me some good advice on this chainsaw thing. I admit, I'd actually be more comfortable starting on the tree trunks outside (none set at dangerous positions). I like the idea of using bungee cords to secure the wood, too, though if someone can hold onto it safely I suppose that would be faster. I'm not clear what your advice is, though - not to put the tip of the chainsaw on the wood? I was figuring on starting up the chainsaw in the air before putting it in contact with the wood. Though you're making me wonder if my sawbuck is too lightweight....hmmm....tomorrow we find out...
Thanks so much everybody! My dinky sawbuck, inspired by pictures here, set up with two bungie cords to hold the wood still (also an idea here) worked GREAT! It's fabulous being able to pack the woodstove properly again - finally, real hot fires again, love it.
Of course, we only got through half the wood so far...and paying for daycare so we can spend hours with the chainsaw and not be interrupted by a preschooler is making this wood pretty expensive....but hey, it's bonding time with my husband
Of course, we only got through half the wood so far...and paying for daycare so we can spend hours with the chainsaw and not be interrupted by a preschooler is making this wood pretty expensive....but hey, it's bonding time with my husband
For my too-long pieces, I jerry-rigged two 2x4s in an X about 18" apart, put the log in there, and cut it in half with the axe. I don't have a chainsaw. =P
~Rose
~Rose
- Status
Similar threads
