Washington Pet 8-19 Gray & Dudley, Nashville, Tn

[Mitch Prasatik]

Our Washington Pet 8-19 was my wife's grandmother's she grew up on. I had it sandblasted, painted, and reassembled. I think I missed a step on assembly. The smoke only partially exits the stove pipe. I installed it in our greenhouse and it will run you out from smoke leaking around the stove. Can someone help with locating instructions with assembly? My wife would be the happiest.
I am new to forums so if I am in the wrong forum for what I am looking for please give me direction on where to best post this question. Thanks, Mitch Prasatik 936-546-4622

 

[Mitch Prasatik]

Our Washington Pet 8-19 was my wife's grandmother's she grew up on. I had it sandblasted, painted, and reassembled. I think I missed a step on assembly. The smoke only partially exits the stove pipe. I installed it in our greenhouse and it will run you out from smoke leaking around the stove. Can someone help with locating instructions with assembly? My wife would be the happiest.
I am new to forums so if I am in the wrong forum for what I am looking for please give me direction on where to best post this question. Thanks, Mitch Prasatik 936-546-4622

Here are some pics of our Washington Pet 8-19 woodstove. I should have sent these with my original help request.

 

[begreen]

Yikes, you've loaded the wood in the oven. That is not the firebox. Get the fire out of there.
The firebox is the smaller chamber to the left of the oven.

 

[begreen]

With the wood loaded in the firebox, the stove should behave a lot better. I don't know this stove but I would look for a bypass control which most cookstoves have. The bypass should be open when starting the stove with the fire in the firebox.

 

[Mitch Prasatik]

With the wood loaded in the firebox, the stove should behave a lot better. I don't know this stove but I would look for a bypass control which most cookstoves have. The bypass should be open when starting the stove with the fire in the firebox.

begreen THANK YOU! I was almost to the point that the stove was going to be a decoration. Anyway, I have further questions and am open to advice on the following. Regarding pics:

1. A pic depicting the name, model, and manufacturer.
2. Condition of the stove after my screw-up of building the fire in the oven. (From the beginning I wondered how the smoke would exit) The oven area was almost totally enclosed!
3. There are two holes with caps near the stove pipe exit. Any idea what those are for?
4. I laid out four rusty pieces on top of the stove and could not figure out where they went or their purpose. (after reassembly)
5. Where would I begin a search for a manual of some sort for this stove?

I should have taken several more pics when I disassembled it for sandblasting. It was a challenge when I reassembled it! One of my prior occupations was a mechanic but this was a challenging little puzzle.

I plan to get a fire going in the real firebox (Ha) and coat the inside with a good coat of oven cleaner to break down the buildup. Don't know how well that will work but it's going to be my first attack at cleanup. It was SO clean at first. I really messed up. If you can answer the parts question, or have any thoughts and/or suggestions would be good. Again, THANK YOU for responding.

 

[begreen]

The firebox usually has burn shields to protect the sidewalls of the burnbox. There might have been a grate in there too. That may be where three parts fit in, except the one with the handle. I suspect that part may be the bypass damper. If it is, the purpose is to divert the hot flue gases around the oven once the stove has warmed up. Without being on site, I am not sure where it would be located, but removing the top burner plates may offer a clue. It will be before the flue exit.

I strongly doubt there is a manual floating around for the stove.@coaly may have encountered this stove. I have not heard of the model . What is the company that made it?

Try some of the antique stove restorers to see if they can help.

Thread 'Antique stove restoration'

Jan 21, 2024

Here are some links to places for antique stove restoration:
Stove Hospital RI - (broken link removed)
Good Time Stove MA - https://goodtimestove.com/
Second Chance stoves - https://secondchanceantiquestove.com/
Erickson's Antique Stoves MA - http://www.ericksonsantiquestoves.com/index.html
Evansville Antique Stove Co. NH - https://evansvilleantiquestove.com/
Antique Appliances GA - https://www.antiqueappliances.com/product-category/antique-stoves/
Ginger Creek NC - https://www.gingercreekstoves.com/
LaPans Antique Stoves- Plainfield N.H- Dana LaPan-...

• begreen
• Replies: 6
• Forum: Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)

• 

 

[Mitch Prasatik]

To answer your question as to who made the stove? The company on the front plate says Gray & Dudley Co., Nashville, Tenn. Also, one question overlooked was the two holes that have a removable plug near the stove pipe. Thanks

 

[begreen]

I don't know what the holes are for, but maybe these folks can help.

Dudley Wood Burning Stoves

Dudley Wood Burning Box Stove Below are details about the Dudley Wood Burning Box Stove for Heating manufactured by the Washington Stoves an...

goodtimestove.blogspot.com

 

[coaly]

I believe the two small holes are check dampers.

They would open into the area at exhaust outlet where draft is greatest, at stove connector collar.

Air rushes in from chimney draw, instead of drawing up through grates, slowing coal fire.

If they go under the top, into the exhaust path, next to outlet, when open they allow indoor air up the flue to cool flue gases, slowing draft. Thereby “checking” or slowing draft. They are not for wood use.

Without seeing grates, or shaker, I believe this is primarily coal. So overnight, these openings are opened to slow the fire, or when trying to prolong the fire for longer duration. Depending on chimney, they may need to be open to prevent overheating with a full firebox of coal.

A common trick was tilting lids to allow air into exhaust path with coal stoves when not cooking.

I have been firing a cottage heater coal stove along with wood burning cookstove the last two months and it only holds a fire overnight tilting the lid closest to exhaust outlet. This stove has a flat little “shelf” on the lid support edge that is the only way to keep top below 700f during normal operation. I can only close it fully while cooking, or rear burner plate goes over 800f easily. I get a dull glow of the center support between burners knowing lid needs to tilt. I have an oval damper at flue outlet, and round damper in pipe. Both closed runs .02 inches WC which reduces blue flame to almost none, but still overheats with lids closed.

Here is established coal fire;


You can see the flat shelf at opening front to slide lid rearward, tilting lid.

Here is rear lid tilted, maintaining civil top temps;