Those of you with warm air furnaces who have provisions to be able to control blower speed based on plenum temps, do you notice any differences in heating ability when you speed up or slow down your blower? Meaning higher blower speeds = higher air volume moving through furnace jacket = lower register temps while lower blower speeds = lower air volume being moved = higher register temps.
I ask because a couple years ago I installed an ICM head pressure (speed) controller on my Kuuma. I added a variable resistor pot inline of the thermistor which allowed me to skew the perceived temp the speed controller saw which allowed me to shift the speed of the blower by a turn of a dial. I immediately noticed better heating when I slowed the blower down. I could only slow it down so much though because I had a sleeve bearing motor and didn't want to drop it too slow at blower shut-off. Recently I installed a ball bearing motor so I could experiment with some really slow blower speeds. What resulted was quite surprising to me. Our house seems to be heating noticeably easier yet with these even slower blower speeds. How slow? Well, the voltage at which I had the old bushing motor cutting off at (~65V) is now the voltage the ball bearing motor is seeing in the middle of a burn with the Kuuma on minimum burn. At the end of the burn the low limit cuts off around the 96°-98° area when the voltage being sent to the motor is around 45V-48V. These voltages were metered using a True RMS meter (actually two different ones), which you need in order to get the correct voltage output of an ICM head pressure controller. These much slower blower speeds also extends the time the blower runs....bigtime. The blower will run from about 10-15 minutes after lighting a fire in a cold furnace till there are hardly any coals left, just mostly ashes. There is NO cycling, none, zip, nada. It turns on at ~125° and off at ~96°-98°, where I have my low limit set.
Now, around the same time I switched to a ball bearing motor I also added a 6" cold air kit to my barometric damper in order to use cold outside air to regulate my draft instead of sending heated inside air up the chimney, but can't see that making -that- much of a difference.
Just curious if what I'm experiencing is normal or if our house is some kind of strange anomaly. It's so much of a difference I'm actually having to adjust how much wood I load and when/if I re-load and even then the house is staying too warm (upper 70's). Granted it's not real cold yet (got down to 25° last night) and the real test will be once it gets to around 0° and below when this house loses a ton of heat.
I'm maybe finding that with warm air furnaces, how the air is being delivered seems to be VERY important to how the house heats. Unless it's just our house, but I guess I find that hard to believe. Before I added the speed controller I played around with different static pressures too. This house loves low air volume/high vent temps.
anyway, just wanted to share what I discovered and if any of you have experimented with blower speeds.
I ask because a couple years ago I installed an ICM head pressure (speed) controller on my Kuuma. I added a variable resistor pot inline of the thermistor which allowed me to skew the perceived temp the speed controller saw which allowed me to shift the speed of the blower by a turn of a dial. I immediately noticed better heating when I slowed the blower down. I could only slow it down so much though because I had a sleeve bearing motor and didn't want to drop it too slow at blower shut-off. Recently I installed a ball bearing motor so I could experiment with some really slow blower speeds. What resulted was quite surprising to me. Our house seems to be heating noticeably easier yet with these even slower blower speeds. How slow? Well, the voltage at which I had the old bushing motor cutting off at (~65V) is now the voltage the ball bearing motor is seeing in the middle of a burn with the Kuuma on minimum burn. At the end of the burn the low limit cuts off around the 96°-98° area when the voltage being sent to the motor is around 45V-48V. These voltages were metered using a True RMS meter (actually two different ones), which you need in order to get the correct voltage output of an ICM head pressure controller. These much slower blower speeds also extends the time the blower runs....bigtime. The blower will run from about 10-15 minutes after lighting a fire in a cold furnace till there are hardly any coals left, just mostly ashes. There is NO cycling, none, zip, nada. It turns on at ~125° and off at ~96°-98°, where I have my low limit set.
Now, around the same time I switched to a ball bearing motor I also added a 6" cold air kit to my barometric damper in order to use cold outside air to regulate my draft instead of sending heated inside air up the chimney, but can't see that making -that- much of a difference.
Just curious if what I'm experiencing is normal or if our house is some kind of strange anomaly. It's so much of a difference I'm actually having to adjust how much wood I load and when/if I re-load and even then the house is staying too warm (upper 70's). Granted it's not real cold yet (got down to 25° last night) and the real test will be once it gets to around 0° and below when this house loses a ton of heat.
I'm maybe finding that with warm air furnaces, how the air is being delivered seems to be VERY important to how the house heats. Unless it's just our house, but I guess I find that hard to believe. Before I added the speed controller I played around with different static pressures too. This house loves low air volume/high vent temps.
anyway, just wanted to share what I discovered and if any of you have experimented with blower speeds.