Walbro Carb

[thewoodlands]

I'm just waiting on the carb kit for the old carb from the 310, I took it apart just so I could get some pictures. This will be a first for me, the old carb has some dirt on the inside so maybe that's what was causing it to run for 20 minutes and then act up.

The first four pics are from the bottom of the carb, in pic 9850 I cleaned up the edges where there was some gasket stuck to it.

 

[thewoodlands]

I have the carb kit so hopefully by Monday, I have the carb cleaned and put back together.

 

[thewoodlands]

How do the two copper looking parts in the picture come out, special tools?

 

[thewoodlands]

After plowing most of the day, I cleaned up the carb with air after its soaking in mineral spirits for two days. The carb is in the basement and I'll put it together tomorrow.

 

[jatoxico]

How do the two copper looking parts in the picture come out, special tools?

Personally, I usually don't need to dig into the carb that deep. Most of the problems I've had, have been cured with new diaphragm needle valve etc. You can pull that screen with a pick without causing trouble. Carb kit should have come with a new one. Once you get into the Welch plug etc, things can go awry according to some while others say no problem. That being the case I have had luck keeping it simple.

 

[thewoodlands]

I have everything together but the inlet needle wont' seat, any tricks on getting that to seat?

 

[jatoxico]

Assume you mean the one in this pic? I've never had one not seat OK. If the old and new seem identical then could only guess something is stuck in the needle seat?

 

[salecker]

After plowing most of the day, I cleaned up the carb with air after its soaking in mineral spirits for two days. The carb is in the basement and I'll put it together tomorrow.

That may come back to haunt you. There are check valves inside the carb that can be damaged with air preasure.If that happens a new carb will be required to fix your issue.

 

[dougand3]

Likewise, I've never had a needle NOT seat. If needle length is the same, something is seriously wrong down the seat tube. An Aftermarket carb may be the best bet here.

 

[semipro]

I hate our disposable societal tendencies but I stopped rebuilding these types of carbs. They're usually cheap enough to warrant replacement rather than rebuilding. Though I've literally rebuilt thousands of carbs as a mechanic I've not had a lot of luck with these.

 

[Medic21]

I hate our disposable societal tendencies but I stopped rebuilding these types of carbs. They're usually cheap enough to warrant replacement rather than rebuilding. Though I've literally rebuilt thousands of carbs as a mechanic I've not had a lot of luck with these.

I have to agree. Most of these are $18-$30 for a complete carb, dealer or Stens. Not worth my time to rebuild. Especially when you spend the time in the shop, having the saw down days you could be cutting, and the headaches involved.

 

[Biglumber]

I had trouble with walbro's leaking until I found out I needed a walbro tool to set the inlet.
Walbro tool
Never have had the need to pull the Welch plugs(copper things) A walbro rebuild kit is all you need most of the time. Peace

 

[Qvist]

I usually re use the metering lever and spring (lever that moves the needle) the levers are bent at a specific angle set with a special tool. Usually they sit a bit below the surface of the carb body. If bent wrong needle wont open. I usually dont remove the welch plugs. If you have to just punch a hole in them with an awl and pry out. To put back in place them in hole and hit center gently with a punch. I never remove the brass jets with holes in them it ruins them.